My version of the "Super Sled"

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Project by Dinger posted 06-28-2012 02:41 AM 3824 views 12 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Hello fellow Jocks!

Here is my version of the “Super Sled” by a Mr John Nixon ( that I found while perusing the internet for a good sled. Because I bought el cheapo table saw off craigslist (in which I put a blade that cost more than the saw itself!) I needed something that would help me make accurate and repeatable cuts. This is also in anticipation of the side table my wife wants me to make her which will require many mortise and tenon joinery.

What drew me to this design was that it incorporated some shop-built ad-on jigs, on for tenoning and another for mitres. This sled also more than doubled my work surface. The 48” fence gives great support for long stock. Did I mention it’s accurate to 0.004” per 14”? Thanks to Marc Spagnoulo (sp?) of the Wood Whisperer ( for an excellent vide on how to the sled that accurate (although I like John’s design better!)

The hardest part for me was getting the runners to seat and slide well. It required A LOT of trial and error. Sandpaper ultimately did the trick. Any advice on the kind of wax to use on my table saw to make it glide easier on the surface itself? I also haven’t decided if I want a finish on it yet. Suppose I could go for the old BLO. Any other thoughts? Thanks for looking!

-- "Begin every endeaver with the end ever in mind."

10 comments so far

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2891 days

#1 posted 06-28-2012 03:23 AM

Nice job on your sled. I built the same one and finished it with paste wax only. I also use paste wax on my saw tables and fence.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Ken90712's profile


17594 posts in 3390 days

#2 posted 06-28-2012 09:19 AM

Nice work. Past wax or Dry Teflon spray is what use on mine. I made my saftey block in the back alot thicker so I know the blade will never come out and get me…

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View JamesN's profile


26 posts in 2371 days

#3 posted 06-28-2012 01:11 PM

Nice sled, I think I may need to upgrade mine now that I have seen a couple other varieties.

Fine Woodworking had a great article this month on how to make a perfectly square sled that took the sloop out of the runners that you were having problems with. I’m guessing you cut your own sticks to act as runners?

The only real problem I have found with my sled is that the plywood at the kerf tends to curl downward when it is really humid because I have an non-air-conditioned garage that I use for my shop. My next sled will be made of MDF to avoid that problem, because the sled is essentially worthless when the bottom isn’t completely flat.

View rmac's profile


221 posts in 3261 days

#4 posted 06-28-2012 04:30 PM

I agree with Ken90712. You need a better guard on the back to enclose the blade at the end of the cut.


-- My table saw laughs at hot dogs.

View Fuzzy's profile


298 posts in 4189 days

#5 posted 06-28-2012 04:59 PM

Nice job … John Nixon is a VERY talented young man … I’ve used some of his ideas/inventions with great success.

I especially like his powered router lift and his method for cutting mortices for floating tenons.

-- - dabbling in sarcasm is foolish … if you’re not proficient at it, you end up looking stupid … ... ...

View SirFatty's profile


545 posts in 2413 days

#6 posted 06-29-2012 12:37 AM

That is one weird looking table saw!

-- Visit my blog at

View lumberjoe's profile


2899 posts in 2449 days

#7 posted 06-29-2012 12:47 AM

Mine was also loosely based on the super sled plans. Paste wax on the bottom and be done with it. I wouldn’t touch the top, I’d be afraid of contaminating the wood I am cutting and finding out when I brush on some finish.

Also, I sent some pics to John and got a very nice email response. What a great guy. If he started selling plans I would totally buy them. I feel like I owe him something now.

I put a box on the back of mine so the blade can’t poke through the back unless I go WAY past the cut, and put a piece of plexi over the blade. It serves a guard. It won’t actually protect my fingers, but when I reach in to remove an off cut, it really gets in the way, reminding me to pay attention to the spinning blade. Also it keeps the saw dust out of my face when peeking over the fence to monitor the cut


View Don Broussard's profile

Don Broussard

3692 posts in 2453 days

#8 posted 06-29-2012 02:54 AM

This is the sled I will build when I am finished with my table saw restoration ( It looks solid and has a lot of flexibility with the tracks and the tenoning and mitering jigs. Nice job on the sled!

-- People say I hammer like lightning. It's not that I'm fast -- it's that I never hit the same place twice!

View wb8nbs's profile


164 posts in 2893 days

#9 posted 07-02-2012 12:11 AM

I used to use Butcher’s Bowling Alley wax on all my iron tools in the garage. Until it ran out and I found the company is kaput. You can get a product advertised as identical from, they say they are former employees of the original company. I’m now using Johnsons and a can of pure caranuba I got at an estate sale.

Paste wax not only makes the jigs and fixtures slide smoothly, but keeps the tools from rusting. Just don’t put it on so thick that it rubs off on your project. It will keep the finish from sticking to it.

-- The only difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.

View Dinger's profile


145 posts in 2463 days

#10 posted 07-03-2012 02:23 AM

Thanks for all the suggestions! I live in the midwest with very humid summers and have not experienced any bowing as of yet. I’ve seen sleds with the box and a plexiglass guard. I may have to consider this modification. I’m pretty careful but, it’s always better to be safe than sorry. Oh, and the wax worked great! Thanks for the tip to only use it on the bottom. I think I’ll leave the top totally unfinished.

-- "Begin every endeaver with the end ever in mind."

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