Project Information
First off, HUGE thanks go to helluvawreck (Charles) for some great tips. This is my first shop made jig that is multiple use. I've hacked together some crap for single uses, such as fences for routing dados and mortises, but nothing that would be used more than once. Overall, this was tons of fun. I went a little overboard and it looks like something a 3rd grader would draw if you asked them to draw their favorite transformer.
Essentials for everyone who doesn't feel like reading a book:
Base - 1/2" BB ply - 36" wide, 24" deep
Back fence (closet to operator) 2(two) 3/4" BB ply laminated. 4" tall
Front fence (furthest from operator) started life as a doug fir 2*8. It's now 4" tall and 12" long
Blade guard - Ambrosia maple
Handle - Oak and ambrosia maple
Runners - hard maple
Angle Miter fence 3/4 BB ply. 26" long, 3.5" wide
Other:
Woodpeckers T track knobs (x4)
Woodpeckers T-track hold down, knurled knob (x4, 1 used)
Kreg T-track clamps (x2)
Incra T-track plus - 36"
Incra T-track - 24"
Incra T-track stops (x2)
1/8" ballistic lexan
I made 4 of my own "T tracks" in the bottom by routing a 1/4 dado all the way through. After that, I routed a 1/2" dado down the middle of each about 3/16 deep. These allow me to set up the miter gauge and use T track clamps:
I then sent some hard maple through my planer until it could just barely squeeze inside the miter track on the table saw:
I cut them just shy on the depth so they wouldn't bottom out and to ensure the sled would ride flat. There are some great tips in my blog on setting the runners. It worked like a charm.
After that I just started attaching a bunch of crap. I made a nice handle out of some amborsia maple encased in oak that I was messing around with previously. I just rounded over all 4 edges and bolted it on. The blade guard on the back is also ambrosia maple, that was the only scraps I had big enough:
Handle: (blade guard pictured above)
I mounted the T-Track plus with the ruler on the top of the sled. I was going to get a Kreg swing stop, but those things are 30$! Instead I got two Incra T-Track stops and made my own stop block out of oak. I just set the Incra stop where I want it and can move the stop block into place our out of the way without messing with anything. I have one on the big fence and one on the miter attachment. You can see it in the pictures for the project
Also I made setting 45 degree angles with the miter fence a little easier on myself. I got the angle dialed in by making TONS of cuts. When I could put 4 pieces together in a perfect square with no daylight in the joints, I drilled two holes infront of the miter fence. Now to repeat that angle, I get it close to the holes, trow some bolts in, and snug it to the bolts, and crank down those nice woodpeckers knobs:
I wanted to get a 24" T-Track plus (with the ruler, like on top) for the miter fence, but it was too wide and would have nicked the blade. I had to use the standard T- Track. This isn't a big deal because I like to cut the wood square and sneak up on miters, so I go from pencil lines instead of measurements anyway. There is an oak stop block and an Incra T-Track stop on that as well.
I have a habit of losing EVERYTHING the second I put it down. I made it so I can keep the miter fence, the miter fence hold downs, and the stop block + hold down on the back of the sled when not in use, This cane also be seen in the pics above and here:
Last, once the basic construction was done, I started using this to make the blade guard, handle, etc. I noticed I had a tendency when cutting multiple pieces to reach in and move the off cuts with the saw running. I put a piece of lexan over the blade. It is higher in the back so the stop block can pass under it. I realize realistically this provides 0 protection, however it makes it a real pain to get my hand under there without thinking about it. One nice feature, it keeps the dust out of my face when peeking over the blade. The lexan is epoxied and screwed into blocks.
All in all this was a lot if fun. I could have made it look nicer, but I am sick of complex joinery. Sometimes "glued and screwed" feels good. Comments and harsh criticism welcome
Essentials for everyone who doesn't feel like reading a book:
Base - 1/2" BB ply - 36" wide, 24" deep
Back fence (closet to operator) 2(two) 3/4" BB ply laminated. 4" tall
Front fence (furthest from operator) started life as a doug fir 2*8. It's now 4" tall and 12" long
Blade guard - Ambrosia maple
Handle - Oak and ambrosia maple
Runners - hard maple
Angle Miter fence 3/4 BB ply. 26" long, 3.5" wide
Other:
Woodpeckers T track knobs (x4)
Woodpeckers T-track hold down, knurled knob (x4, 1 used)
Kreg T-track clamps (x2)
Incra T-track plus - 36"
Incra T-track - 24"
Incra T-track stops (x2)
1/8" ballistic lexan
I made 4 of my own "T tracks" in the bottom by routing a 1/4 dado all the way through. After that, I routed a 1/2" dado down the middle of each about 3/16 deep. These allow me to set up the miter gauge and use T track clamps:
I then sent some hard maple through my planer until it could just barely squeeze inside the miter track on the table saw:
I cut them just shy on the depth so they wouldn't bottom out and to ensure the sled would ride flat. There are some great tips in my blog on setting the runners. It worked like a charm.
After that I just started attaching a bunch of crap. I made a nice handle out of some amborsia maple encased in oak that I was messing around with previously. I just rounded over all 4 edges and bolted it on. The blade guard on the back is also ambrosia maple, that was the only scraps I had big enough:
Handle: (blade guard pictured above)
I mounted the T-Track plus with the ruler on the top of the sled. I was going to get a Kreg swing stop, but those things are 30$! Instead I got two Incra T-Track stops and made my own stop block out of oak. I just set the Incra stop where I want it and can move the stop block into place our out of the way without messing with anything. I have one on the big fence and one on the miter attachment. You can see it in the pictures for the project
Also I made setting 45 degree angles with the miter fence a little easier on myself. I got the angle dialed in by making TONS of cuts. When I could put 4 pieces together in a perfect square with no daylight in the joints, I drilled two holes infront of the miter fence. Now to repeat that angle, I get it close to the holes, trow some bolts in, and snug it to the bolts, and crank down those nice woodpeckers knobs:
I wanted to get a 24" T-Track plus (with the ruler, like on top) for the miter fence, but it was too wide and would have nicked the blade. I had to use the standard T- Track. This isn't a big deal because I like to cut the wood square and sneak up on miters, so I go from pencil lines instead of measurements anyway. There is an oak stop block and an Incra T-Track stop on that as well.
I have a habit of losing EVERYTHING the second I put it down. I made it so I can keep the miter fence, the miter fence hold downs, and the stop block + hold down on the back of the sled when not in use, This cane also be seen in the pics above and here:
Last, once the basic construction was done, I started using this to make the blade guard, handle, etc. I noticed I had a tendency when cutting multiple pieces to reach in and move the off cuts with the saw running. I put a piece of lexan over the blade. It is higher in the back so the stop block can pass under it. I realize realistically this provides 0 protection, however it makes it a real pain to get my hand under there without thinking about it. One nice feature, it keeps the dust out of my face when peeking over the blade. The lexan is epoxied and screwed into blocks.
All in all this was a lot if fun. I could have made it look nicer, but I am sick of complex joinery. Sometimes "glued and screwed" feels good. Comments and harsh criticism welcome