|Project by CowanNavy||posted 690 days ago||1204 views||4 times favorited||6 comments|
I was commissioned to reproduce an ukers board that someone had had made several years ago. The edges and one of the home ports (large squares) are made of Koa. the other home ports and the corresponding final strip are made of Bloodwood, Purple heart, and Mango. The dove tail slots in the home ports are made of Snake Wood.
The game tracks around the board are made of Birds Eye Maple. All of those squares are not cut out individually (would have taken WAY too much time considering I only had 2 weeks to finish these things). They are simply 3,4, and 5 square strips with a 45 degree V-groove routed to make the squares. The center tracks are actually 6 squares long with the last square cut off at 45deg to make the final winning square in the middle. The tracks for the drawer and the drawer sides are made of some scrap poplar I had sitting around. The bottom of the drawer is simple Utility Birch Plywood which was sealed and flocked with medium blue flocking.
The game pieces are made of the same wood that they are meant to play on (i.e. the Koa pieces belong to the person playing with the koa home port, etc), and turned on the lathe to a cylinder. Then I simply cut off pieces from the cylinder and sanded the top and bottom of the game pieces. The lighter strip (birds eye maple) in the bloodwood and mango pieces are to make it easier to distinguish which pieces are which in lower light.
Sanded the whole thing down to 600 grit (all of those grooves were a real pain since I had to do them by hand), then finished with Feed & Wax. Allowed the wax to dry and finished with 6 coats of Minwax Semi Gloss Poly and then rubbed down with #0000 steel wool. All comments critiques and questions are welcomed
Thanks for looking
I was looking through the comments and noticed someone who commented on keeping the blondness (is that a word?) of the maple. I found out how to do maintain the color of the maple when I started the second set of boards and told my Senior Chief the problem I had had with the first set and the maple changing color as i sanded. One way to keep the maple blonde, especially when doing the sanding with multiple species at the same time, use a good sanding sealer and let it dry completely before assembling and gluing. I actually used a fairly heavy coat and did it multiple times on top of that (might have been overkill but better safe than sorry… again) since there was a lot of heavier sanding at first in order to get all of the surfaces level with each other. Probably one of the better tips he has ever given me since after that I started making a couple of jewelry boxes with maple and ebony (not finished yet but I will post them when they are)
-- ET1 (SS) Cowan, Bremerton, WA - (I'll come up with a witty quote later)