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"F-Bomb"

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Project by wrtnaz posted 823 days ago 1805 views 0 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This is a plaque I made from Curly Maply for my Commander. The F-bomb is actually a small gift that our squadron is giving to my Commander and they asked me to put some sort of display for it together. I got the idea from someone else on here, but can seem to find their post any more. Sorry about that.

I used trans-tint to wipe on with a cloth and then sanded at 200 grit and then reapplied tint with a cloth and worked my way up to 1000 grip. Then wet sanded at 1000 grit and applied 5 coates of clear shelac. I was really trying to achieve that 3 deminsional look with the curly maple. I read quite a bit but still didnt get the full effect. My favorite part of this project was the left side of the wood where the bark is still there. That really makes it look great in my opinion and it really stands out once I applied the shelac.

I really enjoy learning new things with wood. The finishing seems to be my weakest point so any suggestions comments are greatly appreciated. I have a long way to go but atleast I am having fun.

Thanks for looking. Hope you like

-- wrtnaz





5 comments so far

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

13196 posts in 933 days


#1 posted 823 days ago

nice looking.

A lot of us have problems with finishing.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it. - It's not ability that we often lack, but the patience to use our ability

View degoose's profile

degoose

6967 posts in 1950 days


#2 posted 822 days ago

Nice use of a wain edge…

-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ lazylarrywoodworks.com.au For lovers of all things timber...

View Philzoel's profile

Philzoel

270 posts in 938 days


#3 posted 822 days ago

at 600 grit and 3 coats of poly it is time to think of finishing the finish. I’ve used pumice stone/paraffin oil and then finish that with Rottenstone. A hard wax polishes to a great shine. The surface to start must be very flat or the poly wears off. This shows every imperfection in wood and poly coats. There are other methods of finishing the finish, but i’ve tried this one with great success. Behlen makes the lava stone powder and has excellent instructions.

I use this finish when the piece is going to be touched a lot.

-- Phil Zoeller louisville, KY

View David Grimes's profile

David Grimes

2072 posts in 1235 days


#4 posted 822 days ago

Very nice job.

+100 on Behlen products.

-- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia

View dj1096's profile

dj1096

31 posts in 513 days


#5 posted 345 days ago

Very nice job and I agree about the natural edge. You have made contemporary art while still allowing us to enjoy a touch of the forrest

I have a few different finishes depending on the project’s use, time constraint, and of course and the end value I expect, be that money or sentimental.

This is my favorite by far for a bringing out depth of the figure and a long lasting finish. I learned this technique from a wood artist and at first I was hesitant to try but now love it. I sand my art and knife projects down to 400 then apply layer of danish oil on dark pieces, mineral oil on light ones. I repeat this, sanding in between each layer until the entire surface dries evenly so depending on the wood this could be 3-4 layers or on the really uneven woods like most burles I lose count of the layers. once the surface seems to have an even sheen I will sand with 600. I then set it aide for a week or two and then using a finish gun I apply 2-3 coats of automotive clear coat being sure to add Flex in the finish. Once that is dry check for and rough spots, wet micromesh if needed and then apply a good carnuba wax.

The end result outstanding. I know many do not like to mix finishes like this calls for but if the oil is fully dry then you can add any finish on top. It is the oil though that gives the depth.

Al I can say is it has worked for me for the last ten years and artist who taught me has pieces in the Smithsonian

-- Dave, http://www.facebook.com/DavidSkipperArt?fref=ts

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