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Tablesaw Sled

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Project by mpounders posted 03-27-2012 03:01 PM 2094 views 1 time favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I have recently been rebuilding some of my jigs and stuff after being inspired by Steve Marin and others on this site. This is based on the great “Super-Sled” design, using 1/2” ply for the base and a routed t-track on the top for stop-blocks and such. I made a replaceable ZCI for the fence out of 1/4” hardboard and used the 5 cut method for aligning it.

I wanted something that was light and easy to move and hang when not in use, so I made it 28” wide, with 15” in front of the fence. Most designs I have seen have a fence at the rear, but I am not sure if I want one. Leaving it off has some advantages, in that the sled is lighter and I can cross-cut pieces up to 30” wide, since I don’t have that rear fence in the way. Should I put a rear fence on, maybe using t-nuts or something to make it removable? What exactly are the benefits of that rear fence? My old sled didn’t have one, but I sure hate to miss out on something, so please advise! I still want to make the 45 degree fences and possibly a tenon jig and a miter spline jig. Thanks for looking.

-- Mike P., Arkansas, http://mikepounders.weebly.com





10 comments so far

View Radu's profile

Radu

305 posts in 1798 days


#1 posted 03-27-2012 04:23 PM

Very nice x-cut sled. The routed t-tracks give you lots of extra possibilities for attachments. I’d say a rear fence will add to the stability of the plywood base. If you make it easy replaceable that’s even better. I have some 1/2” plywood that I was thinking to turn into a bigger and better x-cut sled but it’s not straight. I was thinking the fences (front and rear) will keep it straight. Thanks for sharing.

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11688 posts in 2443 days


#2 posted 03-27-2012 06:25 PM

I believe that the two fences give it stability by helping to keep the deck flatter and holding it together. At this point , there is no support across the front (leading) edge. A removable fence is a great idea as well : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112943 posts in 2332 days


#3 posted 03-27-2012 06:34 PM

I can’t help but have the same concern , all of my sleds have a fence/support on the inside part of the sled. I guess time will tell. Thanks for sharing you sled Mike.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View mpounders's profile

mpounders

750 posts in 1650 days


#4 posted 03-27-2012 08:04 PM

Thanks for the advice! My thinking was that the runners in the miter slots and the back fence would keep everything aligned and squared, and the weight of the workpiece would hold the sled flat to the table? But you guys haven’t steered me wrong yet, so I’ll add one. It’s not like I’m cross-cutting stuff that big all the time, so the extra capacity is probably less important than the accuracy.

-- Mike P., Arkansas, http://mikepounders.weebly.com

View MoshupTrail's profile

MoshupTrail

299 posts in 1236 days


#5 posted 03-27-2012 09:27 PM

I think it’s much easier to build a sled starting with the rear fence – which you don’t actually use as a fence. In my blog, I called it the front crosspiece – so I reversed front and back but you’ll get the idea…

-- Some problems are best solved with an optimistic approach. Optimism shines a light on alternatives that are otherwise not visible.

View Metrotek's profile

Metrotek

134 posts in 1439 days


#6 posted 03-27-2012 10:38 PM

It looks great. I didn’t know you guys leave the runners long in the back or I would have. I installed a wood track on top like you did for stops, etc. I’m going to build a removable angle cutting board that will attach with the t-track and be removable once I get this fence finished.
So a rear fence isn’t necessary, I didn’t know this. I suppose it just makes it sturdier but it is good insight about being able to cut wider stock. My saw is so tiny it would over center but now I will have that front rail to at least catch it. I’m considering some sort of removable attachment to take of this problem when I am using the sled instead of the rip fence. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/63593

-- “Computers have enabled people to make more mistakes faster than almost any invention in history, with the possible exception of tequila and hand guns.” — Mitch Ratcliffe

View Martyroc's profile

Martyroc

2708 posts in 1061 days


#7 posted 03-28-2012 01:21 AM

Nice sled, I have a large on and a very small one,I use the small one for box joints and that’s when the rear brace gets used. On the large on I have it for stability, I never made the runners long and I have never had an issues because the stop at the end of the sled.

-- Martin ....always count the number of fingers you have before, and after using the saw.

View Roger's profile (online now)

Roger

15371 posts in 1559 days


#8 posted 03-28-2012 12:35 PM

I believe it’ll work with or without a rear fence. I have seen sleds for cutting panels where the fence is only on the rear, and that seems to work fine also

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net

View mpounders's profile

mpounders

750 posts in 1650 days


#9 posted 03-28-2012 01:10 PM

I decided to add the other fence for stability and cut the runners off flush with the rear of the sled. That may help with storage or just leaning it against something on the floor. I may try to use the holes/slots to hang it. Thanks for all the advice!

-- Mike P., Arkansas, http://mikepounders.weebly.com

View helluvawreck's profile

helluvawreck

16043 posts in 1621 days


#10 posted 03-28-2012 05:35 PM

It’s a nice looking sled, Mike. Well done.

helluvawreck

https://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

-- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau

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