Tablesaw Sled

Very nice x-cut sled. The routed t-tracks give you lots of extra possibilities for attachments. I’d say a rear fence will add to the stability of the plywood base. If you make it easy replaceable that’s even better. I have some 1/2” plywood that I was thinking to turn into a bigger and better x-cut sled but it’s not straight. I was thinking the fences (front and rear) will keep it straight. Thanks for sharing.

I believe that the two fences give it stability by helping to keep the deck flatter and holding it together. At this point , there is no support across the front (leading) edge. A removable fence is a great idea as well : )

-- When did quiet and quite become the same word ? I'm guessing about the same time as your and you're did.

I can’t help but have the same concern , all of my sleds have a fence/support on the inside part of the sled. I guess time will tell. Thanks for sharing you sled Mike.

-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/

Thanks for the advice! My thinking was that the runners in the miter slots and the back fence would keep everything aligned and squared, and the weight of the workpiece would hold the sled flat to the table? But you guys haven’t steered me wrong yet, so I’ll add one. It’s not like I’m cross-cutting stuff that big all the time, so the extra capacity is probably less important than the accuracy.

-- Mike P., Arkansas, http://mpounders1.blogspot.com

I think it’s much easier to build a sled starting with the rear fence – which you don’t actually use as a fence. In my blog, I called it the front crosspiece – so I reversed front and back but you’ll get the idea…

-- Some problems are best solved with an optimistic approach. Optimism shines a light on alternatives that are otherwise not visible.

It looks great. I didn’t know you guys leave the runners long in the back or I would have. I installed a wood track on top like you did for stops, etc. I’m going to build a removable angle cutting board that will attach with the t-track and be removable once I get this fence finished.
So a rear fence isn’t necessary, I didn’t know this. I suppose it just makes it sturdier but it is good insight about being able to cut wider stock. My saw is so tiny it would over center but now I will have that front rail to at least catch it. I’m considering some sort of removable attachment to take of this problem when I am using the sled instead of the rip fence. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/63593

-- “Computers have enabled people to make more mistakes faster than almost any invention in history, with the possible exception of tequila and hand guns.” — Mitch Ratcliffe

Nice sled, I have a large on and a very small one,I use the small one for box joints and that’s when the rear brace gets used. On the large on I have it for stability, I never made the runners long and I have never had an issues because the stop at the end of the sled.

-- Martin ....always count the number of fingers you have before, and after using the saw.

I believe it’ll work with or without a rear fence. I have seen sleds for cutting panels where the fence is only on the rear, and that seems to work fine also

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net

I decided to add the other fence for stability and cut the runners off flush with the rear of the sled. That may help with storage or just leaning it against something on the floor. I may try to use the holes/slots to hang it. Thanks for all the advice!

-- Mike P., Arkansas, http://mpounders1.blogspot.com

It’s a nice looking sled, Mike. Well done.

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