LumberJocks

Project 8 - Simple pine dovetailed box.

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Project by Richard B posted 03-22-2012 01:54 AM 1641 views 1 time favorited 15 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This box was made from clear pine (the sides) regular quality pine (the top) and some luann plywood for the bottom.

The sides are dovetailed, as you can see. The bottom sits in a groove that I created using my new handmade plow/groove planes. The top is a simple pine board rabbited on 4 sides.

The finish is blonde shellac (1.5 pound cut, x 5 coats) with every other coat gently buffed with 0000 steel wool. Lastly I rubbed 1 coat of wax on it as a last step.

-- Richard B, Birmingham Alabama





15 comments so far

View Martyroc's profile

Martyroc

2708 posts in 1058 days


#1 posted 03-22-2012 02:11 AM

Nice box, this look like hand cut dovetails, very nice.

-- Martin ....always count the number of fingers you have before, and after using the saw.

View Ian Hawthorne's profile

Ian Hawthorne

297 posts in 1401 days


#2 posted 03-22-2012 05:55 AM

Very clean workmaship Richard!

-- Worlds Best Box Hardware! https://www.facebook.com/NeatHardware?ref=hl

View ratchet's profile

ratchet

1304 posts in 2539 days


#3 posted 03-22-2012 12:07 PM

Very nice Richard. I really do favor the functionally clean lines of it. Sort of reminds me of those nice Japanese tool boxes. Well done.

View Picho's profile

Picho

15 posts in 2535 days


#4 posted 03-22-2012 12:50 PM

Are those hand cut dovetails? very nice box!

View RogerBean's profile

RogerBean

1296 posts in 1706 days


#5 posted 03-22-2012 01:38 PM

Nicely done. Pine is surely underrated. It deserves more respect than it gets. And, your use of dovetails here is the perfect complement to the pine. Dovetails on a box are often out of place, or overkill, or just unnecessary, but here you’ve made them work beautifully… and with fine craftsmanship.
Roger

-- "Everybody makes mistakes. A craftsman always fixes them." (Monty Kennedy, "The Checkering and Carving of Gunstocks", 1952)

View vakman's profile

vakman

301 posts in 1156 days


#6 posted 03-22-2012 09:48 PM

Excellent work! Did you size this so that the sides and top are based on dimensional lumber? e.g. 1×6s for the sides and 1×8 for the top?

-- - Power is not revealed by striking hard or often, but by striking true. -

View Mikeyf56's profile

Mikeyf56

171 posts in 1974 days


#7 posted 03-22-2012 09:50 PM

Well done.

-- Powered by Smith & Wilson~~~

View doncutlip's profile

doncutlip

2832 posts in 2309 days


#8 posted 03-22-2012 10:05 PM

Nice looking joinery

-- Don, Royersford, PA

View Richard B's profile

Richard B

29 posts in 1255 days


#9 posted 03-22-2012 10:43 PM

@vakman:
It was sized to fit my workbench. I have a split top bench with a ~6 inch gap between the tops. These boxes fit between the bench tops and their height is set to be flush to the benchtop(with the box top removed). The length of the project needed to be either 1/3 or 1/4 or 1/5 the length of my bench. Aesthetically and functionally I liked the size of these, which are about 1/4 the length of the bench.
I demension my lumber by hand, so whenever I can I try to find materials close to or at the finished thickness. In this case the sides are 5/8 or 6/8 thick. All this material came from the home depot down the street.

-- Richard B, Birmingham Alabama

View lysdexic's profile

lysdexic

4892 posts in 1375 days


#10 posted 03-23-2012 03:42 AM

Richard,
That is a clean, simple, well executed design. How did you execute the rabbets for the top?

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali

View WispWoods's profile

WispWoods

65 posts in 2179 days


#11 posted 03-23-2012 04:56 AM

Great Box, Richard! I really like the lid.

-- - You begin thinking less, and feeling more.

View Richard B's profile

Richard B

29 posts in 1255 days


#12 posted 03-23-2012 05:59 AM

@ lysdexic:
The rabbets were done mainly using a shoulder plane. I have a router plane and attempted to use it first but found it harder to control and so I switched to a shoulder plane, which worked very well. I scribed the width of the rabbets with a marking gauge, then began passing over it with the shoulder plane. After the first one I added a spare board to act as a fence, which speeded up the first 1 mm or so of the rabbet depth. After the first mm or so I removed the fence and guided the plane freehand.
For the last rabbet I tried a different approach: I crosscut the margin of the rabbet with a backsaw then chiseled out 90 percent of the waste and cleaned it up with the shoulder plane. That was probably the fastest if the several methods I attempted.

-- Richard B, Birmingham Alabama

View lysdexic's profile

lysdexic

4892 posts in 1375 days


#13 posted 03-23-2012 10:46 AM

Cool.,I just wondered if you had a moving fillister.

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali

View stefang's profile

stefang

13633 posts in 2087 days


#14 posted 03-23-2012 06:24 PM

It came out very nice. Pine can look great if it’s treated right as you have done here.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View john_az's profile

john_az

105 posts in 1123 days


#15 posted 03-29-2012 03:50 AM

Nice straight forward simple design. I like it.

-- John, Phoenix-AZ

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