LumberJocks

Project 8 - Simple pine dovetailed box.

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Project by Richard B posted 425 days ago 1230 views 1 time favorited 15 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This box was made from clear pine (the sides) regular quality pine (the top) and some luann plywood for the bottom.

The sides are dovetailed, as you can see. The bottom sits in a groove that I created using my new handmade plow/groove planes. The top is a simple pine board rabbited on 4 sides.

The finish is blonde shellac (1.5 pound cut, x 5 coats) with every other coat gently buffed with 0000 steel wool. Lastly I rubbed 1 coat of wax on it as a last step.

-- Richard B, Birmingham Alabama




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15 comments so far

View Martyroc's profile

Martyroc

2708 posts in 474 days


#1 posted 425 days ago

Nice box, this look like hand cut dovetails, very nice.

-- Martin ....always count the number of fingers you have before, and after using the saw.

View Ian Hawthorne's profile

Ian Hawthorne

277 posts in 816 days


#2 posted 425 days ago

Very clean workmaship Richard!

-- The Boxmakers Jewellery. Neat Hinge - Neat Lock - Neat Screw - http://hawthornecrafts.com/box-hardware/

View ratchet's profile

ratchet

1189 posts in 1955 days


#3 posted 424 days ago

Very nice Richard. I really do favor the functionally clean lines of it. Sort of reminds me of those nice Japanese tool boxes. Well done.

View Picho's profile

Picho

15 posts in 1950 days


#4 posted 424 days ago

Are those hand cut dovetails? very nice box!

View RogerBean's profile

RogerBean

757 posts in 1121 days


#5 posted 424 days ago

Nicely done. Pine is surely underrated. It deserves more respect than it gets. And, your use of dovetails here is the perfect complement to the pine. Dovetails on a box are often out of place, or overkill, or just unnecessary, but here you’ve made them work beautifully… and with fine craftsmanship.
Roger

-- "Everybody makes mistakes. A craftsman always fixes them." (Monty Kennedy, "The Checkering and Carving of Gunstocks", 1952)

View vakman's profile

vakman

299 posts in 571 days


#6 posted 424 days ago

Excellent work! Did you size this so that the sides and top are based on dimensional lumber? e.g. 1×6s for the sides and 1×8 for the top?

-- - Power is not revealed by striking hard or often, but by striking true. -

View Mikeyf56's profile

Mikeyf56

171 posts in 1389 days


#7 posted 424 days ago

Well done.

-- Powered by Smith & Wilson~~~

View doncutlip's profile

doncutlip

2808 posts in 1724 days


#8 posted 424 days ago

Nice looking joinery

-- Don, Royersford, PA

View Richard B's profile

Richard B

27 posts in 671 days


#9 posted 424 days ago

@vakman:
It was sized to fit my workbench. I have a split top bench with a ~6 inch gap between the tops. These boxes fit between the bench tops and their height is set to be flush to the benchtop(with the box top removed). The length of the project needed to be either 1/3 or 1/4 or 1/5 the length of my bench. Aesthetically and functionally I liked the size of these, which are about 1/4 the length of the bench.
I demension my lumber by hand, so whenever I can I try to find materials close to or at the finished thickness. In this case the sides are 5/8 or 6/8 thick. All this material came from the home depot down the street.

-- Richard B, Birmingham Alabama

View lysdexic's profile

lysdexic

3433 posts in 791 days


#10 posted 424 days ago

Richard,
That is a clean, simple, well executed design. How did you execute the rabbets for the top?

-- I hate being bipolar. It's awesome! :^ ) ^:

View WispWoods's profile

WispWoods

50 posts in 1594 days


#11 posted 424 days ago

Great Box, Richard! I really like the lid.

-- - You begin thinking less, and feeling more.

View Richard B's profile

Richard B

27 posts in 671 days


#12 posted 424 days ago

@ lysdexic:
The rabbets were done mainly using a shoulder plane. I have a router plane and attempted to use it first but found it harder to control and so I switched to a shoulder plane, which worked very well. I scribed the width of the rabbets with a marking gauge, then began passing over it with the shoulder plane. After the first one I added a spare board to act as a fence, which speeded up the first 1 mm or so of the rabbet depth. After the first mm or so I removed the fence and guided the plane freehand.
For the last rabbet I tried a different approach: I crosscut the margin of the rabbet with a backsaw then chiseled out 90 percent of the waste and cleaned it up with the shoulder plane. That was probably the fastest if the several methods I attempted.

-- Richard B, Birmingham Alabama

View lysdexic's profile

lysdexic

3433 posts in 791 days


#13 posted 423 days ago

Cool.,I just wondered if you had a moving fillister.

-- I hate being bipolar. It's awesome! :^ ) ^:

View stefang's profile

stefang

9453 posts in 1502 days


#14 posted 423 days ago

It came out very nice. Pine can look great if it’s treated right as you have done here.

-- Mike, American in Norway

View john_az's profile

john_az

100 posts in 538 days


#15 posted 418 days ago

Nice straight forward simple design. I like it.

-- John, Phoenix-AZ

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