|Project by markplusone||posted 654 days ago||4288 views||11 times favorited||17 comments|
Well I got this contract for some tables and had a rather large problem. The customer had mostly wide board stuff that was not stored well. It was all cupped and or twisted. They of course didnt want to cut the boards at all and the walnut slab tables are all one piece anyway. Now I have leveled more than a couple boards with only my hand planer and a beltsander but with over 40 boards to work, that aint happenin’. So I had to devise a way to face joint large face boards. I have a 15” planer so that would be no help. Everyone knows here that you face joint to create one flat common surface as a base operation for everything else. A jointer does this by referencing the same face that its cutting. So, knowing what I had (not much) I decided to do essentially the same thing, but inverted. I set about to make a sled that my hand planer would attatch to and a set of rails to ride on and a way of holding the board in a fixed relationship to the rails and thus the planer. First step was the sled. I took off the baseplate of my makita. Using this for a standard, I planed down a piece of ply to the exact thickness of this plate. (mistake one as I found out later) Next, I marked off the frame that I wanted to use. It is two lengths of 1”x2” aluminum square tube and 4 lengths of 1”x1” aluminum angle. After marking out the frame I measured and marked the middle of the plywood across the short axis. Then, centering up the handplaner up on this line, I marked out the outline with a pencil. That being done, I took the baseplate back off, lined it up with my outline on the sled and drilled my mounting holes and countersunk them to recieve the screws for the planer. After drilling the corners of the material I wanted to cut out, I took my upcut bit in my router and ran around it to pop it out. Then I mounted the planer to the sled and found a critical error in thinking. If th infeed is the same height of the outfeed, the planer will not bit. DDDUUUUHHHH! Ok so the planer came back off and I mortised out the outline of the outfeed side on top by an 1/8” then reattached the planer. that worked better. Now taking the planer back off I attached the rails using self tapping screws. Worked pretty well and didnt take too long. Next was the table supports for the boards themselves. This was relatively easy. They are blind nuts with 3” bolts and a hex nut on the shaft to lock a specific height. Easy enough. There are 16 in my table top now. These started out as carriage bolts but those take forever to screw in and out so I changed to hex heads so I can us my impact to put them in and out quickly. The black substance you see is liquid electrical tape. Works good as a no slip coating for the heads. Finally the rails. Just so happens, I had some plastic cutting board material laying around. So I ripped two 3” strips and made sure they were straight. Then I used a 9’ 2×4 laid wide face down and screwed to my table as the support and screwed the plastic to that vertically using a string line to straighten as I went. After both rails were set I used two winding sticks to straighten the table itself. I tested it with a junk piece of walnut and lo and behold, IT WORKS. The board was flat but did have a rough texture. 5 min. with a 80 belt sander and it was good. So, after a day and a half of thinking, rigging, making and swearing; I now have the ability to face joint 25” wide boards quickly and accurately. Project cost was 57$ for aluminum, 5$ for screws, 10$ for bolts and nuts, 15$ for blind nuts, 7$ for liquid tape so all in all less than a big bill for the ability to do this contract easily. Next up is a another larger sled to increase my capacity to 40” for the large slabs Ill be getting soon. Heres the pics on the build.
-- Dont carry that which you dont hold with.