|Project by Seeharlez||posted 02-28-2012 12:31 AM||3421 views||6 times favorited||6 comments|
Well I finally got around to putting this enourmous Porter-cable router to good use and mounted it my table saw extension table. being a big plunge router, the first thing i need to do was figure out a simple way to adjust the height. The thing weighs a ton so reaching under the tabler and lifting was not an option (i tried…). So I did a few modifications to the router and added a custom made bracket (pic-6) so that I could adjust the height from above the table with an allen wrench (pic-5). It works really well, very smooth and fine enough adjustment. The plastic is quite hard – It’s either Delrin or UHMW-PE (not sure which) but the adjustment rod is threaded all the way through the bracket (~1-1/2”) so there is lots of shear area to take the load. I modified the locking lever on the router to stay sprung open until I push it closed so I don’t have to hold it open while adjusting the height but can lock it down when in use.
The Mounting plate (Pic-5) is Kreg from LV – ~$70. It fit nicely between the supports underneath the TS extension. The mounting pattern for the router needs to be drilled in the plate (along with the hole for the height adjustment.) I added the T-track ($2/ft from Busy bee) to both sides of the router so I can work from either side of the table saw by flipping the fence from one side to the other.
The Fence is made from 3/4”ply for strength and fence face is ~11/16” shelf stock from Lowes for a nice (if not somewhat cheap) low-friction surface. I added 2 rows of T-track to the fence to give more flexibility in positioning of feather boards or other stop or fixtures I may come up with in the future. The fence is quite tall, but this was the stock width of the shelf material (12”) and I figured it would be useful to have a nice, tall fence. If I find it’s too tall and gets in the way I can always trim it down. I made the fence in 2 pieces with a sacrificial MDF insert that fits between two 22.5 degree cuts on the ends of the fence. This way I can bury the bit in the fence for zero-clearance cutting and just trim it down or flip it end for end as it gets consumed. I made 4 inserts for now. The fences are held on with 4 carriage bolts with wing nuts so they can easily be removed or shimmed for square, or if I want to use the table as a jointer I can shim out one side of the fence.
The feather boards were on sale at Busy Bee for ~$5/ea and came with the gray threaded knobs. Since I paid about $3 for the black knobs by themselves I figure $5 was a good deal for the knobs and feather boards, rather than making them myself.
I also tried using my incra mitre gauge to run stock through on edge (pic-3) and although it’s a bit far from the mitre slot it seems to be stable enough so that’s kind of a bonus!
The vacuum port attachement is also from Busy bee (~$5) and is connected to my shop vac with a particle seperator.
I’m quite happy with how it came out, although I have barely used it, it seems to work quite well. I’m about to put it to the test as a start on re-doing the stairs in hardwood so we’ll see how it goes… Since this is my first router table, I would appreciate any useful feedback all you experts out there may have.
Thanks for looking!
-- Greg - Vancouver, BC