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Plant Stands

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Project by Grampa_Doodie posted 924 days ago 808 views 2 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I made these two plant stands out of red oak and leftover laminate that matches my daughter’s kitchen counters. Pretty basic…no plans involved.

As you can see I used some pocket-hole joinery.

Dale.

-- If at first you don't succeed...DO NOT try skydiving.





4 comments so far

View yooper's profile

yooper

181 posts in 1454 days


#1 posted 924 days ago

Nice simple idea. I’m going to steal it!

-- Jeff, CT - better late then never

View Grampa_Doodie's profile

Grampa_Doodie

148 posts in 925 days


#2 posted 924 days ago

yooper,

Holler if you’d like dimensions.

Dale.

-- If at first you don't succeed...DO NOT try skydiving.

View Martyroc's profile

Martyroc

2708 posts in 933 days


#3 posted 924 days ago

Looks good.

-- Martin ....always count the number of fingers you have before, and after using the saw.

View Grampa_Doodie's profile

Grampa_Doodie

148 posts in 925 days


#4 posted 921 days ago

As mentioned I had no plans for this project. Pretty much winged it with rough sketches and measurements. I just now retrieved all measurements and then created some notes for those of you who have requested more info. I’m pretty sure the measurements are accurate, but as usual, go over them first before cutting.

Plant Stands:

Four aprons that go between the four legs just under the top.   (3/4” X 2” X 7 1/2”)

Top shelf frame parts.  (3/4” X 1 3/8” X 12 1/16”)

Bottom shelves. (7 1/2” X 10 1/4”)

Overall width of the tops. (12 1/16” x 12 1/16”)

Legs. (tall stand- 1 1/2” X 1 1/2” X 34 1/4”) (short stand- 1 1/2” X 1 1/2” 26 1/4)

Location of bottom shelves. (tall stand- 14 1/2 from floor) (short stand- 6 1/2 inches)

Distance from outside edge of leg to outside edge of leg. (10 1/2”)

Notes: I made the top out of 3/4” MDF laminated with leftover countertop laminate. The top was made 1/16” larger than the outside dimensions of the plant stand. This allows the top to barely slip down over the top of the leg structure.

When it came time to perform the pocket-hole joinery of all four aprons and legs, I placed a 1/8” thick piece of material underneath each apron and between two legs as I was drilling the pilot holes. This recesses the aprons 1/8” in from the outside edge of all four legs. This reveal will match the reveal of the bottom shelves mentioned below.

Once the leg structures and the tops were completed, I placed the tops on my bench upside down and then placed the stands upside down within the bottom of the tops. A short drywall screw was then driven through pre-drilled holes in all four aprons and into the oak trim that surrounds the top to securely hold everything together.

The bottom shelves should fit nicely between the four legs with the 7 1/2” length. The 10 1/4” width of the shelves allows them to fall “within” the full width of the leg structure. This gives it a very nice look. In other words, the width of the shelves was made 1/4” short on purpose so that they do not go all the way out to the outside edges of the four legs.

All other joints were done with pocket-hole joinery. Couldn’t be easier.

-- If at first you don't succeed...DO NOT try skydiving.

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