|Project by Peter Oxley||posted 903 days ago||14003 views||60 times favorited||14 comments|
- My Milwaukee 5625 Router is too big for the plans, so I had to scale and stretch the design a bit
- I used 3/4”-10 threaded rod instead of 3/4”-16 the plans called for
- I didn’t put knobs on the clamp bolts – I don’t plan to take the router out of the lift very often
- I made a knob for the bottom end of the lift screw so I could adjust from below if I wanted
- I made the drive head 7/16” instead of 1/2”
- I’d use jam nuts instead of Nylocs
- I’d drill into the end of the rod and tap the hole for a bolt, rather than filing the threaded rod
The 10 TPI rod is just about perfect as far as I can tell. The router travels up and down reasonably quickly, but very fine height adjustments are still very easy.
Rather than dedicate a ratchet, extension, and socket to the lift, I went by the BORG and picked up a cheap T-handle hex-drive ratchet and plugged a 7/16” nut driver in it (fourth picture). The lift is very easy to adjust with either the T-handle or the knob.
The fifth picture is my router throat plate, which is getting quite a collection of holes! The four big holes in the square pattern are from the Milwaukee base, the four screw heads towards the corners are for this router lift, and the zinc hex is the adjustment screw. I was going to replace this plate with an aluminum plate, but for $65, I decided this one could hold out a little longer.
Construction is of Baltic Birch ply and Hard Maple, plus hardware.
——- EDIT 02/01/2012——-
If you are building this lift, drill out the countersinks for the clamp bolts before cutting the tapers on the carriage. It’s much easier to align and control the bit when drilling into a flat surface than into a sloped surface.