|Project by snhacket01||posted 782 days ago||8776 views||60 times favorited||30 comments|
Tablesaw workstation cart (Nov 2011 – Jan 2012)
This is my first post, and consists of my rambling notes over the past few months. Hope I’m correct in putting this all under one note (for this project) and will try to keep a blog (if I can figure out what a blog is!) for the next project…Also, pic is from my iPod – hope to take a picture with a real camara and post also! I’m new to the site and have been woodworking for a couple of years – this project was my first real attempt without plans and had to make some decisions on how to support a contractor saw…
Jan 16. Finishing touches day! Had to sand under one of the bottom shelves to prevent sticking. Applied a couple of coats of wax to everywhere. Drilled into the top to attach the top “wings” to the base. Assembled the rails, and the fence ran smoothly. Attached the handles…FINISHED!!!
Jan 15. More sanding and poly. Did 2 coats on top and bottoms of wings and all parts of the unit itself using a water based spar urethane with no dye. Brushed on poly, sanding in-between coats. Also fixed the “Noddy” stop sign – one of the tabs broke during all the moves. Used a threaded 1/4 rod with a couple of nyloc nuts – good as new!
Jan 14. Cut lots more small pieces of the door skin to finish off the rest of the exposed mdf and ply – got a little anal about finishing off everything! Also routed a quarter round on the top of the left and right of the tablesaw. Did a bunch of sanding to round the corners and trim the exposed door skins. Also filled some of the pin holes and gaps, and sanded. Vacuumed and wiped everything down and started to poly. Mixed 3 part spar poly, 1 part mineral spirit, 1 part tung oil with a little brown mahogany stain for color. Wiped on the poly mix – did the bottom of the wings first, then a couple of coats on the whole unit, flipped the wings over and did a couple of coats on the top and sides of the wings – looks good so far.
Jan 8. Cut pieces to cover the vertical pieces on the sides of the support on the left hand side (inside and outside) and the cabinet on the right. Also cut a single piece for the back. Also cut pieces to cover the 2 by 4s on the base.
Jan 7 bought another 3 sheets of door skins to cover the mdf and the plywood. Started with the horizontal pieces around the tablesaw. Measured and cut 2 separate “C” shaped pieces to fit around the tablesaw – should probably have taken the time to take the tablesaw out, cutout a hole and routed for the rounded corners, but decided that this was too much effort! Spent time cutting the pieces to fit.
Jan 2 notched 2 pieces out of the MDF to allow the dust collector knobs to turn properly at the base of the large outlet. Cut the Maple to frame the tabletops – decided to make the frame the same dept as the tabletop. Wanted to see if I could get a vise on the tabletop, but the free space wasn’t deep enough to fit the 9 inch grotz. Cut a mitre/grove into the tabletops to fit over the aluminum brackets – routed using a large straight bit. Also cut out 5/8 holes in the tabletops to allow the screws in the brackets countersink into the tabletops. After all this adjusting (including planing the maple sides and the left side tabletop support, was happy that the table tops sat flat and butted right up to the the table saw top.
Jan 1 cut the pieces of alum ( 1 1/4 square at 1/8 inch thick) to 27 inches for the left and right sides brackets. Spent the rest of the morning drilling and adjusting the 5/8 inch holes in the alum brackets for the sides. After a few hours of drilling and moving, was happy with the way the brackets rested and the table tops sat on each side.
Dec 30 cut the door skin (oversized)and used contact cement on both sides (2 coats on each face. Let dry for 30 mins and gluded together. Trimed both sides with flush trim bit and test fitted. Right sides looked good (probably needs to be raised by 1/8 on the drawer cabinet. Left side at 12 inches was too narrow – need to recut at 14 or 15 inches (later figured out that it was cut ok since 2 sides of maple would be added!). Also incorrectly cut the aluminum brackets too short (cut at 25 instead of 27 inches)...bought another set at Lowes (another $28)
Dec 29 cut the 3/4 cherry and framed with leftover 3/4 cherry. Cut the cherry pieces for the drawer fronts and glued and nailed to the drawers. Had a lot of problems with the drawer sliders – so much for the cheap online sliders – next time stick to the quality sliders from lowes or HD! Also trimmed and installed the drawer fronts and the spacer under the tablesaw. Also bought a 1/8 inch door skin ($11) to cover the left and right 1 1/2 inch top sides of the tabletop.
Dec 28 had Mark help me turn the table saw upside down, took the legs off and inserted into the base units…and yes, it fitted. Also bolted the tablesaw into the t-nuts to support it.
Dec 27 figured out that I could take the 3 base units and move them back 3/4 inch, and move the drawer unit forward almost an inch to allow the tablesaw to fit. Took the units apart and moved as described above. Also moved the pine pieces by 1 inch to allow the wheels to swivel freely. Also bought a sheet of 3/4 mdf and cut and glued up 2 pieces at 27 by 48 for the right side of the table to make a 1 1/2 inch thick sheet.
Dec 26 Dec 24 glued up 3 1/2 pieces of mdf for the 12 inch left side of the table…still trying to figure out what to do with the base units to get the tablesaw to fit.
Dec 19 test fitted the tablesaw…didn’t realize that the table on the saw was so off-center. Figured I’d have to rebuild the base units as the table wouldn’t drop into the base with hole…bummer
Dec 18 cut up 3/4 cherry leftover ply and framed with sapelle for the 9 1/2 inch drawers and the space under where the tablesaw will go. Also rough cut a 3/4 cherry for the drawer fronts.
Dec 12 installed the drawer slides on the 6 drawers. Put 1/4 spacer under the pieces on the cabinet. Used a measurement of 7/16 on the pieces on the drawers. Drawers seemed tight on the e 9 1/2 inch side drawers. Time will tell if the drawers will be to stiff to pull easily. Also bought drawer pulls from Lowes $2.77 each.
Dec 11 glued and nailed the 6 drawers. Waiting for the sliders to come, so couldn’t install the drawers – and still thinking about the table-top. Latest thought is to take Bill Mik’s advice and make a tortion box. Advantage is that I could make it any thickness I wanted.
Dec 10 cut the bases for the 6 cabinets out of 1/2 inch mdf cut all the rabbets in the base and had to adjust (correct) the rabbets in the fronts, backs and sides to make the bases fit snugly.
Dec 4 cut the sides, backs and fronts for the shelves. 4 in the high unit. And 2 for the smaller side units. Made the drawers 1 inch less wide than the unit to allow for sliders. Cut the rabbets in the sides, back and front. Incorrectly cut the rabbets for the base – will fix next weekend.
Dec 3 measured the top of the mobile base to the bottom of the tabletop. Made the chest of drawers part of the unit. Glued and screwed the unit, and screwed it to the base and side unit.
Nov 25 attached side boxes and tablesaw base to the mobile base. Used 2 3inch strips of double 3/4 mdf as base of tablesaw base to help hold down tablesaw base. Drilled holes from tablesaw box through the side boxes. Attached the t-nuts to the side boxes. Also bought 1 1/2 inch bolts to eventually bolt the tablesaw through the base to the side boxes.
home depot hardboard 3/16 13.48
Nov 24 drilled holes in side of box and tablesaw base. Also used the jigsaw to cut out a 4 by 3 inch hole in the tablesaw base (to be able to attach the bolts to the t-nuts later.
Nov 23. Decided to make the “hole” in the box a little wider to make sure the tablesaw would fit in. Used the dado blade to shave another 1/32 off all round the rabet. Had Mark help me flip the tablesaw upside down. Took the legs off and test fitted the box. Fitted well side to side but needed 1/4 insert at back…now fits perfect.
Nov 20th. Decided to make 2 12” side boxes out of MDF to provide support on each side of the tablesaw box. Made each box 23 1/2 inches deep to match the tablesaw box. Haven’t decided on shelves (stationary vs pullout yet). But will probably finish with *9 plywood to match the assembly table.
Nov 19th decided to use a double layer of 3/4 MDF as the base for the tablesaw. Cut the 4 sides after measuring everything and formed into a box with no top. Also cut a “groove” 3 9/16 deep by 3/4 wide (basically 1 sheet of MDG wide) so that the cabinet would sit into the box.
Nov 13th cut the pine into 4” width pieces. Cut the various pieces, glued and screwed into a frame, and then screwed into the mdf base. Attached the casters onto the base.
Nov 12th Decided to use a plan from (woodonline.com) with pics from lumberjocs.com as the base plan – but knew I’d have to do a bunch of figuring out by myself since this was a contractor saw and didn’t have a flat solid base…Should be fun measuring!!!. Started by building the mobile base. Bought a sheet of 3/4 mdf ($30) 4 4”casters from woodcraft ($50) a bunch of screws ($20) and 2 1×10x8 pine ($23). Cut the mdf to 25 1/2 by 70 5/8. Marked and drilled holes for the casters. Also ran a 1/8 round-over on all sides of the base (top and bottom)
Nov 7th ordered 50inch rails for the tablesaw ($270 inc freight). Also bought a bunch of mdf ($30 per sheet) and plywood ($27 per sheet) and a sheet of formica ($48). Not sure what I’ll be using yet.