|Project by Nighthawk||posted 955 days ago||2975 views||1 time favorited||4 comments|
An older project I did about a month ago… And I have used it heaps since…
Table saw cross cut sled. Now since my table saw only has a cut depth of 80mm I didn’t want to use 10mm ply and reduce it down to 70mm. But in hind sight it probably wouldn’t have mattered. The other thing is the mitre slots on this table are very small and I mean small.
Like all my jigs… I am not building this sled to look pretty. I just want to make it work and usable, and it is for me. I didn’t even square off the sled sheet, no need… I not one of these fanatics that the jigs that I make must also look cool… as long as if the blade is 90 degree to the fence I will be happy. Then it will do its job and make all the other things I make look pretty.
First thing is to cut and rip your runners and make sure they run smooth through the saw mitre slots cleanly. Make them about 1mm proud. Now the mitre slots on my saw are pretty small so it made for some fine cutting and some sanding to get them to fit.
Then place both runners in slots, glue sled on while in the saw, an easy line up and no measuring. Clamp and put a weight in the middle to hold. Heck as I said above I didn’t even make the sled square however it doesn’t matter as this stage.
Once glue is dry, sand smooth and ensure sled runs free. You may need to scrape a bit of glue bleed off and then lightly sand the 1mm off the runners so they not touching the bottom of mitre slot. Sled slides nice and smoothly using candle wax. So far so good.
Ensure saw is set at 0 degree and locked. Because I am using such thin sled base, I clamped the sled to table saw. Switch on and slowly raise saw through sled. Now you can remove clamps.
Okay so far… Cut blade slot to roughly where I wanted your cross cut fence. now the important part ensuring the fence is square to the blade. Line up for 90 degree square. This has to be spot on.
I have one edge over hanging, which can have a tex screw in. (other edge is not and will explain later why). Check square again mark and carefull pull sled back to over hang back of saw.
Remove temp screw and glue, re-tex srew and clamp – ensuring you get the same screw hole in the fence as be before. In hind sight I should have had more over hang on the other side of the sled purely to make easier to glue and screw down, but the scrp piece of board I had wasn’t quiet big enough.
The longer over hang is so I can make slightly longer cuts on that side with a stop block. The reason for the back one being the same length… basically I haven’t cut it off and it helps it lean and stand against the wall. Once that is done recheck that is still square, and then I put a back support on, making long enough to where I put hands to push sled on the side of back support and hands are automatically clear of the blade.
Again because the sled base is thinner I put another support brace on the unside of the over have which doubles as another runner. I then put the back fence on and support block as the front… make the full cut through the sled and again at 45 degree and you basically have a cross cut table sled.
The way you natuarally want to push this sled you fingers are automatically too far from the blade. (a good 60mm to 70mm clear) so it is one of the better ones Ihave made (considering the last one I made was 15 years ago for my boss at the time.
-- Rome wasn't built in a day... but I wasn't on that job? ... http://www.wackywoodworks.co.nz