|Project by tim0001||posted 12-30-2011 10:31 PM||2840 views||10 times favorited||21 comments|
Comments asked for better pictures of this table. Hopefully I’m a better woodworker than photographer.
The table is walnut. The starbust center is 8 wedges of crotch cut walnut sequenced matched to form the circle. the slices were resawed verneer appox 3/16 thick and glued to a plywood substraight. The banding is bubinga and solid walnut outer ring from cut and built-up layers. The legs are mortised into the upper ring. The lower shelf is attached with brass pins. Cutting the wedges to proper angle is critical since any error is multiplied by number of sections. I cut two pieces at a slightly lower angle and than trimed to final fit. Finish is tung oil.
Construction: I started by determining how many slices I needed based on the width of the board (plank really). I had a board about 10 quarters thick and about 12 inches wide. I layed out a circle on paper to determine the diameter and the width needed for each section – about 10.5 inches using 8 slices. Just draw a circle full size on paper and quarter it with a compass, and using a compass find the center between each radius and divide again to get 8 sections. You can use 12 sections to use smaller wedges. I cut a jig the right angle and used it with my table saw sled to cut the triangle from the center of the board making sure to use a center point I wanted for the point. I then resawed the triangle into slices marking each slice. To get a match around the circle I layed out a sequence clockwise of 1,2,4,6,8,7,5,3 to get the best match edge to edge. If you lay them out in order the first and last piece will have the largest diffference. This sequence provides a good balance. After the pieces are cut I layed them out on the paper to check fit and since I cut them a bit long I just slide the last piece into the cicle until it covered the opposite side completing the circle exactly, marked it and and trimmed to fit. Prior to trimming I was off by about a 16th – but sliding the wedge toward the center of circle effectively increases its width. I then cut a plywood circle and using a vacuum press bonded the slices to the plywood. At this point the outer edges are still straignt on each piece and needs to be cut into a circle. Using a compass I marked the circle and then rough cut close to the line with a bandsaw than using a homemade trammel for my router cut the final circle. The outer ring was 4 layers of 3/4 walnut so that the inside diameter was about 1/2 inch less then the center circle so I could cut a rabbet on the inside for the top. I tapped and clamped the outer ring to my bench and placed a block in the center to match the height for use as a center for the router trammel. I took several passes to cut the inside rabbet. I made the rabbet about 1/8 larger than the final circle to allow for the banding to be inset. I cut a strip of bubinga for the inset banding and sanded it to fit the exact deminsion of the grove. I centered the top by placing 8 cut-off pieces of banding around the perimeter. I then carefully bent and tapped the banding into the grove – two pieces – but admit I broke it three times before I got it. The lower shelf is a joined board cut into a circle usiing the same method as above. I cut the legs using a plywood template I had used to make the carabole legs on another project (Shannons Coffee Table) but for this table I just used one side.