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Zero Clearance Insert for Ridgid Table Saw

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Project by TheRookieJer posted 939 days ago 2891 views 1 time favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Zero Clearance Insert for Ridgid Table Saw
Zero Clearance Insert for Ridgid Table Saw No picture No picture No picture No picture No picture
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Made this zero clearance out of hardboard. Nothing new… Used the table saw, band saw and oscillating spindle sander. Works great.

Thanks.

-- Jeremy, Kingwood, Texas





8 comments so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

111999 posts in 2176 days


#1 posted 939 days ago

Another good upgrade for your saws ,looks super.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View DYNO360's profile

DYNO360

147 posts in 1464 days


#2 posted 938 days ago

Looks OK, but what holds it in? Don’t see any screw. Also, stock throatplate is about 1/2 thick. Wish you had posted a picture of the flip side.

View TheRookieJer's profile

TheRookieJer

9 posts in 973 days


#3 posted 938 days ago

When I get around to it I will post a picture of the bottom. Everything is attached from there and the hardboard was laminated up to about 1/2 like you say DYNO360. I know that MDF is the top choice for this, but I didn’t have any when I made it!

-- Jeremy, Kingwood, Texas

View eland's profile

eland

4 posts in 1356 days


#4 posted 937 days ago

I have this same table saw and have made about 9 inserts for different blade configurations. I used 1/2 ply. In the future I will probably use mdf because a few of them have a minor amount of bow which can be a problem. I roughed it out on the band saw and then used carpet tape to stick the plywood to the stock insert. Then I used a flush trim bit at the router table. The last time I did it it took about 5 min to route 3 of them and they were all exactly the same as the stock insert. I use 4 small screws on the underside of the insert to level it to the height of the table. They are such a perfect fit that there is no need to screw them in. Now I only use the stock insert if I am cutting a bevel.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1640 posts in 1520 days


#5 posted 923 days ago

I made this same insert using MDF. I just traced the shape with the original insert and cut it with a scroll saw and sanded smooth. I put it in place, moved the fence over it to hold it down and while running the saw I raised the blade to make the slolt. Now, gravity holds it in place just fine.

-- In God We Trust

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4286 posts in 1647 days


#6 posted 549 days ago

I made my ZCIs of MDF also but next time I shall use a different materiel as MDF flex too much.

-- Bert

View darkone's profile

darkone

53 posts in 554 days


#7 posted 549 days ago

Is this the R4512? I know when I made mine, I used some cheap 1/2” sandply from HD. The problem I had was that I has to router out the back where the insert actually sits on the protruding castings and those are only about 1/4” or less from the top. This made the insert fairly fragile and I need to make a new one. Did you have these problems?

View phomer's profile

phomer

5 posts in 552 days


#8 posted 541 days ago

hey darkone, I have the same saw. Trying to make a zero clearance insert is a real problem with that saw because of the leveling screws. Don’t know of a solution but maybe someone will come up with one.

“Money talks. Mine says good-bye!”

-- David Gardner, Natchitoches, LA

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