Simple Chisel Rack

Hey Tony
This is a great chisel holder. Simple projects is where we build skills and confidence ,before you know it you’ll be making Bombe chest.

-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/

Looks good to me. At least you are making handcut dovetails.
That is better then me at the moment. :)

-Rob

If it functions, its a success!

I think its a great addition to your shop. Good job.

-- Use it up, Wear it out --------------- Make it do, Or do without!

Nice idea!

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker

Very true statement with hand tools really are satisfying. Nothing better than finishing up something by hand even if it took longer than the powered alternative its still seems that much yours.

-- nate.

Sweet. It’s great when you can put those first practice sessions to work in your shop. Those DTs are not half bad for starters. They just get better from that point.

Keep it up Tony.

-- Make furniture that lasts as long as the tree - Ryan

Thank you for the encouraging words everyone.

Ryan – You are the one that suggested moving my efforts from mere practice and to direct it towards useful/needed shop items. As always, sage advice. Thank ya man.

-- ~Tony

Hey Tony,

Nice job. I prefer hand-tools too.

Your joints are tight, how did you pare that tail to insert the shim?

later,

-- dust control

Hi Parkerdude. Thanks.

There was a gap on the outside of the joint that tapered to a good fit at the bottom/inside of the pin board socket. i left the tail alone and pared the pin, cross grain, until the gap was uniform width (outside to inside / top to bottom). i planed a shim to appropriate thickness and dry fit it to test. i left the shim larger than the tail; it protruded about 1/8” from the top and 1/4” out the side. i glued the the joint up as normal then smeared a little glue on the shim and tapped it in. Once it was dry i scored it with a knife and snapped off the excess then hit it with the plane.

i hope that made sense, let me know if i need to clarify further.

Thanks for the interest.

-- ~Tony

Another way to do it. Assemble the joint with the gap. Saw through the joint. Make a shim that is a bit thick, hammer it thin on an anvil, till it fits. Glue the kerf, not the shim. When the shim hits the glue it expands and fills any gaps. Pare it clean with a chisel one the glue sets. If you align the grain of the ship with the pin pre of the joint it is VERY hard to detect.

For some light gaps I have heard your can hammer the ends of the pins a bit to expand the grain. I have not played with this method though.

-- Make furniture that lasts as long as the tree - Ryan

Ryan – How would you saw the joint without nicking one of the base lines? i did not realize the glue would have that much effect on the shim, i will try it how you recommend (glue in kerf) next time. i rather like having repairs visible, things like dutchman repairs are appealing to me, but if i have need of a discrete repair i will most definitely keep the grain match in mind.

Derek Cohen writes about that ( http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/PeeningDovetailsinWood.html ). He calls it “Peening Dovetails”.

Thank you for sharing your wisdom Ryan.

-- ~Tony

The reason the glue affects the shim is because the grain gets compressed when you hammer it on the plate. The glue just expands the grain again…the same could be done with a heat lamp but that would take more time.

As far as not nicking the baselines….this is good practice for half blind dovetails. Not nicking the lines is just a matter of getting the angle of the saw right. It’s easier than it sounds.

-- Make furniture that lasts as long as the tree - Ryan

Ryan, that is some good info, now that i read it a year later.

-- I hate being bipolar. It's awesome! :^ ) ^: