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I used MDF, cut the width on the TS and used a jigsaw to cut out the top and bottom, then I used a plunge router for the depth. A lot cheaper than spending $25 on the woodcraft insert!
-- Lance, Hook'em HORNS! ""V""
Dec 22, 2011
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387 posts in 1391 days
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#1 posted 12-22-2011 06:32 PM
I just bought the same saw and am going to be a copycat. Looks great, should work great too. Nice job.
-- (You just have to please the man in the Mirror) Mike from Michigan -
35 posts in 1215 days
#2 posted 12-22-2011 06:33 PM
Is that the stock riving knife in the photos? I have the craftsman version of this saw (21833) and I swear it has a different knife than what you have photo’d.
#3 posted 12-22-2011 06:34 PM
356 posts in 2372 days
#4 posted 12-22-2011 07:12 PM
Nice job. I own this saw also and was about to pay for an insert. I’m curious about why you routed a channel where the blade will go. Do you want to minimize contact with the blade?
-- Mitch, http://furnitude.blogspot.com Also blog at http://www.craftsy.com/blog/author/mitch-roberson/
201 posts in 1405 days
#5 posted 12-23-2011 02:47 AM
Mitch, it was probably to allow him enough clearance to install the insert and raise the blade through
#6 posted 12-23-2011 05:02 AM
Mitch, that’s right, it was for clearance and I thought it would be better to have less material there for the zero clearance.
744 posts in 2330 days
#7 posted 12-23-2011 06:44 AM
nice work.i have the same saw and need a ZCI myself.still developing my woodworking skills so someday i will try to make one.thx for posting.jeff.
214 posts in 1552 days
#8 posted 12-23-2011 06:52 AM
Well, I’m going to copy that also. I just tonight bought that saw at a local outlet tool place(Tanger Outlets near the Meadows Racetrack in Coraopolis, PA.)
Got it new in a box for $336. A steal, I figure. It’s a ‘blemished’ one. Something about the paint color being off or some such. Heck, at that price it could be painted pink for all I care.
And now I see a great idea for a ZCI. Thanks, Lance,
-- -- Don from PA
114 posts in 1226 days
#9 posted 12-23-2011 02:11 PM
Nice job Lance. Now that you have made that one, buy you a flush trim bit for your router and you can make as many as you want. I have about 10 of them for mine. One for Dadoes of different sizes, and a couple for different angle cuts. I did not use the stock splitter though I cut a groove in the back in line with the blade and then I installed a hardwood splitter the same width as the blade works better than the stock splitter.
#10 posted 12-23-2011 05:24 PM
Bret, that’s a great idea, I have a flush trim bit and I plan on making multiple inserts.
10 posts in 885 days
#11 posted 12-19-2012 05:00 PM
Lance, Are the top and bottom two separate pieces?
-- My Nickname is meant to be taken sarcastically... Sean, South Carolina
3807 posts in 1678 days
#12 posted 12-19-2012 05:36 PM
Wow, you really have to cut the support lips thin on that model. The inserts I made for my Jet are much thicker. Hope they work well for you.
-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush
#13 posted 12-19-2012 09:09 PM
No, it’s one solid piece of MDF.
2 posts in 899 days
#14 posted 12-21-2012 06:37 PM
Wow ! great insert.. Just got this saw to replace my old delta shopmaster.. I must admit, i was a bit sad when I saw the thin sides the hold the plate.. good to see that its possible to make a zero insert :-)
I’ll duplicate one with some HDF I have left from my delta’s zero insert I made.
1 post in 841 days
#15 posted 12-31-2012 03:52 AM
Lance, what do you do with the riving knife locking knob when using a dado set and the home made zero clearance insert, looks like the knob will hit in either position
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