Easier Thin Ripping Jig

I think binding or catching can be an issue on jigs such as these, hence the bearing. I’d hesitated building one like this for some time now for lack of easily obtainable bearings. I hate to pay shipping that costs more than the part I am ordering…..

You’re probably ok with this jig, but I’m confident that the addition of the bearing will in fact make it safer…..If you find a source, keep us posted!

JC

-- Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known. -Carl Sagan

If you go to Lowes or Home depot you can get rollers that are made for sliding screen doors. These are cheap. If you have the extra bearings that can be added to your router bits these work as well. If all else fails a cheap small wooden wheel can be used.

-- Those that say it can't be done should not interrupt those who are doing it.

I have thought about one of these jigs but I think the magswitch featherboard will still do the trick. Looks like that one would work very well Ratchet.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

Thank you all for the comments and advice! I am very happy that the suggested addition of a wheel or bearing will improve performance. I off to look for a workable low cost wheel.

I’ve made one somethng like this without a bearing. I used a small piece of PVC plastic shaped like a point. It has worked fine for me. It allow the wood to slide easly. Since they are so easy to make I would like to use the bearing idea from jeff the wood wacker. I sure it would work better on softer woods. NICE PROJECT. THANKS FOR SHARING.

-- Dominic, Trinity, Florida...Lets be safe out there.

Ok; I went to the big box stores and took a look at the screen door rollers and felt the were too small in diameter and kind of thin as well so I passed.

They also do not carry any roller bearings. Anyone know a good source? Any help appreciated.

How about a bushing from a router bit set designed for rabeting? Check out MLCS at MLCSwoodworking.com

-- Jerry, Wichita KS

Roller skate bearings. Steal them from a kid or buy them at any place that sells sports equipment. 5/16” bolt fits fine although they really are 8mm metric.

-- Stevethepeeve -- I'm no rocket surgeon

Great idea there Steve… I’ll have to keep that in mind for when I need a bearing.

-- Chris

Did you check your local hardware store? I don’t think they should be that hard to find. Bearings are pretty common. Nice jig though. This will make things a lot easier for you.

-- Check out my new website! http://www.blakeweberwoodworking.com

This looks like the easiest design I have seen yet. Nice job!

-- Kevin -- (http://www.furniturebykevin.com)

Hi There,

Quick question from a newbie. This seems to work like a feather board but without the safety feature. Why is it better please?

Is it easier to slide pieces passed to saw blade? etc …?

Thanks

-- Keep your tools sharp, your mind sharper and the coffee hot

Yettiman; Basically a featherboard flexs and as such would give you varying thickness as you cut. This jig has no flex and once set allows you to rip repeated consistent widths from wider stock. Note: the wider part of the ripping stock is between the fence and the blade with the falloff being the thin strip you are cutting. This is safer than if the thinner piece was between the blade and fence where it could cause a squeeze / kickback.
Hope I explained that ok.

Target and Walmart sell skateboard bearings. I am not sure how expensive they are but they are about an inch in diameter. This would be similar to the already recommended roller skate bearings.

I am I not supposed to use retail store names on this site?

-- All trees have projects inside of them, it is your job to get them out.

Forgot to say sweet jig.

I am going to make one like it. I think I already have an old skate board to steal the bearing from.

-- All trees have projects inside of them, it is your job to get them out.

Hey ratchet
thanks for sharing. Hey guys don’t through things at me but I don’t think a bearing is really necessary.
If your really want one it doesn’t have to be fancy. take a piece of 1/2 dowel cut a 1/4” off of then end drill it and screw it to the point so it’s free wheeling.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

Or you can buy the one from Rockler like I did. It has a bearing.

-- I don't make mistakes, only design changes....www.dgmwoodworks.com

I’ve got to tell you, I’ve never bothered with a jig, and my narrow strips are perfect.

I simply set the blade 1/8” above the stock, and use a push block (like you’d use on a jointer) with a sacrificial pad. Once the stock is behind the splitter, I simply continue to feed, and the final segment results in the push block pad getting grooved.

-- - Please help keep Lumberjocks an enjoyable escape by refusing to participate in political discussions. Simply spit out the bait and ignore the thread...

Some of us “shake” more than others. We need all the help we can get.

-- I don't make mistakes, only design changes....www.dgmwoodworks.com

good idea . Dont worry about the groove . This may help you out . Use a router table, set stop blocks then Use a spiral upcut bit as it will pull the workpeice downward , Cut small depths and multiple passes ( sneak up on it ).
Or make a bench top holding jig and use a handheld plunge router . In my table router ( Hitachi M12V ) I bought a woodrat plunge bar and it helps with table plunges since I dont have a crank depth adjuster on my table ( jessem etc.) . I hope this can help you or anyone else out . Tom

-- POPSHOP ,

A bearing will be the most accurate . A bearinged rubber coated wheel is better yet . Dont be afraid of redesigning / rebuilding a jig . I have redone most of mine several times to get the desired performance .

-- POPSHOP ,

Popshop; Thanks for the info on how to do it better and make improvements. I may give it a try to make a new inproved version. I even have a precsion bearing to use this time. My skilset has improved since building this one so it should go alot easier. I will post pics when done.

Thank you all for the comments.