| Project by ratchet | posted 191 days ago | 486 views | 2 times favorited | 13 comments | ![]() |
I’m relatively new to woodworking and LJ’s. You rock! I needed a thin ripping jig for an upcoming project and found a few plans out there and here. The one I liked required a double dado with oak inserts for the top slider to move on. Well my first try wasn’t a success. It seems I can make a dado fit for glueing (but not slide evenly apparently). So, I simply made the base a little wider and adding side rails. Works like a charm and was made totally from scrap (note the big knot) excluding the (3) 1/4-20×3” flat head bolts, 2 plastic knobs, and few other small bits.
The plans I used included a front roller bearing, but I havent found one yet. Not sure I’m going to add one as this jig works VERY well w/o one.
Question: does thin ripping go better on these jigs with a roller bearing on the business end?
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13 comments so far
TheCaver
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70 posts in 290 days
posted 191 days ago
I think binding or catching can be an issue on jigs such as these, hence the bearing. I’d hesitated building one like this for some time now for lack of easily obtainable bearings. I hate to pay shipping that costs more than the part I am ordering…..
You’re probably ok with this jig, but I’m confident that the addition of the bearing will in fact make it safer…..If you find a source, keep us posted!
JC
-- Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known. -Carl Sagan
jeffthewoodwacker
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189 posts in 255 days
posted 190 days ago
If you go to Lowes or Home depot you can get rollers that are made for sliding screen doors. These are cheap. If you have the extra bearings that can be added to your router bits these work as well. If all else fails a cheap small wooden wheel can be used.
-- Genius is immediate, but talent takes time.
Grumpy
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4905 posts in 302 days
posted 190 days ago
I have thought about one of these jigs but I think the magswitch featherboard will still do the trick. Looks like that one would work very well Ratchet.
-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python
ratchet
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80 posts in 237 days
posted 190 days ago
Thank you all for the comments and advice! I am very happy that the suggested addition of a wheel or bearing will improve performance. I off to look for a workable low cost wheel.
Dominic Vanacora
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379 posts in 320 days
posted 190 days ago
I’ve made one somethng like this without a bearing. I used a small piece of PVC plastic shaped like a point. It has worked fine for me. It allow the wood to slide easly. Since they are so easy to make I would like to use the bearing idea from jeff the wood wacker. I sure it would work better on softer woods. NICE PROJECT. THANKS FOR SHARING.
-- Dominic, Trinity, Florida
ratchet
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80 posts in 237 days
posted 190 days ago
Ok; I went to the big box stores and took a look at the screen door rollers and felt the were too small in diameter and kind of thin as well so I passed.
They also do not carry any roller bearings. Anyone know a good source? Any help appreciated.
jerry118
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21 posts in 191 days
posted 190 days ago
How about a bushing from a router bit set designed for rabeting? Check out MLCS at MLCSwoodworking.com
-- Jerry, Wichita KS
SPalm
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702 posts in 333 days
posted 190 days ago
Roller skate bearings. Steal them from a kid or buy them at any place that sells sports equipment. 5/16” bolt fits fine although they really are 8mm metric.
-- Stevethepeeve -- I'm no rocket surgeon
Chris
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1164 posts in 442 days
posted 188 days ago
Great idea there Steve… I’ll have to keep that in mind for when I need a bearing.
-- Chris
Blake
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1876 posts in 325 days
posted 188 days ago
Did you check your local hardware store? I don’t think they should be that hard to find. Bearings are pretty common. Nice jig though. This will make things a lot easier for you.
-- Dust collectors suck.
biff_kpv
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209 posts in 314 days
posted 186 days ago
This looks like the easiest design I have seen yet. Nice job!
-- Kevin -- (http://www.furniturebykevin.com)
Yettiman
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108 posts in 188 days
posted 166 days ago
Hi There,
Quick question from a newbie. This seems to work like a feather board but without the safety feature. Why is it better please?
Is it easier to slide pieces passed to saw blade? etc …?
Thanks
-- Keep your tools sharp, your mind sharper and the coffee hot
ratchet
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80 posts in 237 days
posted 166 days ago
Yettiman; Basically a featherboard flexs and as such would give you varying thickness as you cut. This jig has no flex and once set allows you to rip repeated consistent widths from wider stock. Note: the wider part of the ripping stock is between the fence and the blade with the falloff being the thin strip you are cutting. This is safer than if the thinner piece was between the blade and fence where it could cause a squeeze / kickback.
Hope I explained that ok.