|Project by Smitty_Cabinetshop||posted 579 days ago||3421 views||1 time favorited||33 comments|
Timeframe: Nov 2011
Wood Used: Reclaimed SE Asian Mahogany
Galoot Index: 6 on a 10 point scale. Material cut to dimension by table saw and RAS. Otherwise smoothed and jointed w/ hand planes. End profiles with shoulder and block planes, 12” back saw
Cost: $0 for wood, paid $80 for vintage vise
My workbench is well documented here on LJs, and one of the bench’s features was specifically added as part of the Roubo Cabinet build: a line of dogholes along the front of the bench top. In that entry I opined about the merits of an end vise or even a wagon vise, but figured the Veritas Bench Pup solution would be just fine. Well, it was fine. But I recently found an end vise that fits my bench’s dimensions perfectly (vise pop-up dog centered to dog holes on the bench and short enough that the rod doesn’t hit the right front leg). Adding any vise means I lose the drawer that’s been there, but now that there’s a cabinet…
After thinking about it a week after first sighting, I took measurements and went back for a second look. It would fit, so I bought it.
At a 20% discount, too! Yeah, I know. Not real cheap, but I’ve been looking for the right vise for my bench for a long time. New is not an option, and all old vises that I’ve seen have been priced at or above the one presented here… This project presents the installation of said vise and the making of the wood chop for it.
Used Everlasting 5/4” chisel for the tedious task of creating the recess for the vise ‘baseplate’ in the benchtop.
Lots of fit checks along the way, and things were taking shape.
The major reason I’m wanting an end vise is for it’s pop-up dog; raising the vise high enough on the end to get that pop-up into play meant bringing the vise’s top edge very close to the work surface. First try, too low.
Another round of chopping, and we’re there.
I wanted a solid wood top (no through-dado), so I worked with care. I stopped with a pop-up that extends about a ¼” above the surface of the benchtop; that ought to be enough to hold pieces to work faces and edges. I’ll draw the baseplate tighter at the top edge of the recess when I do final tweeks to the install…
The second night of work was to make the vise chop. Because the pop-up dog on the vise lines up with my bench’s line of dogholes, no need for a dog in the chop. I simply want a chop that extends the width of the vise against the bench, for glue-ups mostly… That’s what I mostly used the wide face vise on my cabinetmaker’s bench for and I miss that.
Picked a piece of mahogany from the rack; it’s the same material that my leg vise is made of. Incredibly dense, heavy and highly figured stuff that’s perfect for this application. Worked face and edges with my cambered #5, then smoothed it all with the #4 ½, and I’m ready for a decorative touch.
I don’t know what the profile is called, but I drew it out in pencil then figured out how to make the cuts pretty much on the fly. Heck, it’s a chop… if it doesn’t work, I’ll make another.
So I penciled straight lines and cut them with the backsaw. Note the shameless presentation of the wonderful Diamond Edge etching:
Then I used a trick learned from The Schwarz last year: I angled the #93 shoulder plane into the cut and created a bevel that in turn guided the plane towards making a shoulder as it was worked to a vertical position.
I repeated the cutting and planning on the edge of this end of the chop, then used a low angle block to work the round-over portion of the detail.
Repeated the process on the far end of the chop and had this:
Applied some Watco’s, screwed the chop to the vise and it was done:
Does it work? Yes!
I’ll finish the task with final fitting of the baseplate to get it flush with the end of the bench, then apply leather to both the bench end and the chop for added grippyness. And this addition to the bench is complete! Thanks for looking.
-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive