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I made these from some left over wood from a try-square I'm making. The wood is Macacauba and quite straight grain. Are lots of ways to go about making them. Mine have holes so I can hang them and I will paint a target on the one if need be. I haven't had a lot of experience using them so I'm sure design will alter a bit as time goes on.

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Great looking winding sticks… What length did you make them?

Thanks for sharing
 

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I am liking them Joe. A nice set are on my to do list. At present I use two pieces of aluminium angle with some black electricians tape on one of the pieces for contrast. They work well and don't fall over, but they don't look as nice as yours.
 

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The angle iron I think for a pair over 24" is a good call. Truth is if I had some I most likely wouldn't have made these. ;-)

Joe
 

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Joe, they do look great, however, the winding sticks I have seen for sale all have an alternate color at the top of one of them so you can easily see how much your board is out.

I would think that with the beautiful grain on yours, it may not let you see the twist as clearly.

Maybe they work fine, I am thinking I would have trouble seeing the difference (older eyes maybe?).
 

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I have been using hand plans more and more I think I will make a set as well thanks for reminding me about them.
 

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Hi all,
My use of winding sticks is mostly confined to the reconstruction of tall clocks. When I reassemble them I need to know that the waist and the base are pretty much in line. As a matter of expediency when I set up the first time I grabbed a couple of 24" levels. Been using them ever since.Actually the whole set up uses three levels.
I know that they are not all that fancy but I don't have to worry that they might go out of straight or square.
BTW n2b's winding sticks are very nicely done.
tom
 

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Very nice . I tried using winding sticks but I could not find where you wind them up :))
 

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Are you working through Jim Tolpin's book? Straight edge and now winding sticks, both on my list from that book.

On another note, have you ever considered making a WW paddle? Thinking about that for next season, I will probably start with a canoe paddle first.
 

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I don't want to rain on anyones parade, they are quite beautiful, but the grain, while beautiful, might be a distraction to function. You said you might paint the top edge and that would be a good idea. I'd make one white, the other black.
The length will work well for checking boards or glue-ups up to about 18", but the length, at 24", is too short to use for a table top effectively. Winding sticks need to be longer than the width of the surface being checked.

I hope you don't take these comments as mean or ill willed. I'm just trying to offer some constructive criticisim.
 

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Very nice. These should work just fine.
 

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I'll work backwards,

Crank49 no worries. The grain doesn't bother me and they work well without the lighter color on the second stick. I have the advantage of 20 years of prepress that helps. I check proofs for type and color and at this point see thickness differences in my sleep. Also adding an inlay of a lighter wood really wouldn't be to hard afterwards. I made these from scrap and finished with BLO, so they were quick to make and no real loss.

Arminius I have not read jims book. I will google it. I read Chris Schwarz book and these were some of the tools on his list. I have made paddles, and had the good luck of becoming friends with Jim Snyder who makes some of the best wood paddles I've used. you can check out his here I don't know the type pf paddling you do but one of the best things I've made is wood hand paddles. It's been years since I've made them but I will post some pictures if your interested.

tom427cid yes anything will work metal rules or levels are great. I guess the advantage to wood is it's easy to true them. I know if I put 3 levels next to each other they may be level but I'm not sure true.

Joe
 

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Joe,
Good point,however, making sure that a level is "on the level" is easy. First mark a spot on a relativly level surface and use the mark as an index. Set the level on the mark and note where the bubble is. Reverse the ends of the level and put it in the same place and if the bubble does not return to EXACTLY the same place-discard the level. This applys to any level,the inch and a half 50 cent give aways to the six foot hundred dollar door jamb.
Hope this hellps.
tom
 

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tom427cid

my point speaks to the two levels not being the same size overall. I'm sure they are both level. I find they work better when the two are the same.

JFF
 

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I have seen one of those, referred to as a Jimistik - a paddler from around DC was up here (Ottawa River area) quite a few summers ago, he tagged along with a group of us because it was his first time on the Ottawa. Gorgeous paddle, and he was a very solid paddler who spoke highly of it. It is one of the things in the back of my mind when I think about making one - I have only ever made a flatwater canoe paddle before.

Jim Tolpin's book is basically a large set of shop tool projects, the two you have done being fairly early on.
 

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Arminius,

Yes, Jimi changed the name of his paddles about 3/4 years ago along with the logo. I have one of the older jimi sticks, he names them all, mine being glitter bug, I used it for squirting but I don't get out to WV enough and most of the time use my hand paddles. The set I just posted were for Jim as a thank you. He went over the process with me and gave me some scrap wood from his bin to make a few set. The kept saying to me, "you know there is as much babor in them as making a stick" After making 3 pair I would agree. I love mine but won't be making more anytime soon.

If you ever make it to the Cheat festival or in that area you should stop by his shop. The sport of kayaking and paddle making would not be the same without him.

If your going to cheat festival or out that way PM me. I get to the Upper Yough about once a month in the summer.

Joe
 

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I think a maple inlay on one of those winding sticks would be a perfect idea. They are certainly beautiful to look at.
 
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