|Project by TechRedneck||posted 11-13-2011 06:33 AM||4025 views||1 time favorited||5 comments|
This sharpening station started life as my first woodworking project a couple years ago. It was supposed to be a sewing center for the wife. It sat in the shop like many projects do and I never really liked how it turned out.
I have since upgraded my skills and my tools, however.. there it sat taking up space in the shop. So… one day it hit me. This would make a good sharpening station! The wife is going to get a solid cherry sewing center which I will start this winter and it will be much better quality.
Any old desk will do. I just chopped it in half and custom fit it to my shop. I wanted to basically stand while sharpening and wanted to put everything in one spot. I am lucky to have a sink in the shop (garage) so I placed the station at the same height and right next to the sink. Comes in handy, however if you don’t have a sink this will still work.
I use a combination of water stones, DMT diamond plate and a scary sharp. Each is used for a different purpose which I will explain below.
The initial idea was to keep the stones soaked so all I do is pull one out, sharpen, flatten and go. I went to the dollar store and purchased a bunch of plastic tubs with lids. I cut a hole in the top of the station to set the tubs in, allowing them to sit on the lip of the tub. I remove the lid, pull out the wet stone, place it in the stone holder and set it on top of the recessed tub. Ready to go! All the slop drips back into the plastic tub.
The DMT XC plate next to the tub serves a dual purpose. It is handy to quickly flatten the stone after use and is also used to cut primary bevels on plane irons and chisels. I use a wet grinder if the job is too tough, or to setup a hollow grind for chisels.
Next to the DMT is a granite block. I use both sides of this. Using spray adhesive, attach various grits of wet/dry paper. Working through the grits, just spritz with water and hone. Lightly dry off the block, flip it over and the next two grits are available. The highly polished side is saved for the finest grits (400 & 320) I make sure to place the factory edge of the paper right along the side of the block.
Stored under the table is a slow speed, wet grinder and my chainsaw sharpener.
A small fine DMT pocket sharpener is used to sharpen the auger bits and tune up the planer and joiner blades (while still in the machine.. unplug first!)
When I find the time and money to get into hand saws, I can attach a saw vice to the end of the table.
Once the initial sharpening is done on new or newly acquired old tools, all I need is the 4000 and 8000 stones to keep the edge in working order. It usually takes only a few minutes to bring back the razor edge using a back bevel and the ruler trick. I have a board handy with pre set stops for setting the honing guide. This was found on the Lie Nielsen website (thank you LN!).
At first I just finished the wood top with some old poly I had in the shop. After a week or two of use it looked horrible with all the black iron dust and water spots. I let it dry and purchased some grey epoxy paint. Three coats with two to three days dry time between coats solved the problem. Now all I need to do is hit it with a cleaner and no more spots. When it gets beat up, all you do is give it another coat of paint.
-- Mike.... West Virginia. "Man is a tool using animal. Without tools he is nothing, with tools he is all.". T Carlyle