|Project by lysdexic||posted 11-08-2011 05:27 AM||25464 views||96 times favorited||33 comments|
I wanted to make a shooting board, first to really fine tune squareness and miters and secondly to get my fingers away from the miter saw when taking a smidgen off a small pieces. I don’t have a dedicated cross cut sled for my table saw yet. I am fortunate to Rick at The Woodworking Source here in town who makes custom moulding. He will let go some of his cutoffs for very reasonable prices. These are made from his scrap.
I searched LJ's projects here and other internet sites for designs and these are amalgamation of several shooting boards and bench hooks.
I decided to go with a fence that is adjustable a removable.
The fence has a hole to capture miter jigs.
The bench hook fence has mitered and square kerfs which is an idea that I got from Mark’s bench hook at Bad Axe Tools.
The bench hook and shooting were carefully constructed the fences were co-linear and can assist the other.
The basic dimensions come from the Lie Nielsen shooting board but modified slightly because my scrap pieces weren’t big enough.
I have read Jim Tolpin’s book “The New Essential Woodworker” and employed mostly hand tool work except ripping the plywood and drilling. The rounded fences come from his book.
1/2” birch ply glued to 3/4” cherry ply.
The fences and cleats are either red or white oak cutoff.
Most resources will tell you this is a quick, couple of hour project. Well, not for me and I won’t divulge how long it took.
I put a coat of poly varnish on everything except the plane “chute” which smoothed with a #4 then the varnish was wet sanded with 400 grit followed by paste wax.
Galoot Index = 4
Thanks for looking.
Cut the ply pieces to size. Before glue up placed a groove for dust and dadoed for the cleats and bench hook fence.
The fence and cleats were made from one piece of white oak, beveled at 45 the rounded with a BU Jack.
To maintain the structural integrity of the bench hook fence the platform was dadoed. In order to adjust the shooting board fence it was placed directly on the surface. However, it was planed to match the height of the other fence.
The cleats were joined with a groove. Many sources say that this is not unnecessary but I did it for the practice. I did dado these on the table saw but cleaned the up with a shoulder plane.
I added some sandpaper and this really help to hold the work piece.
Next I made a miter jig with a 1/4” – 20 threaded insert. This attaches to the hole in the fence with a wing nut.
Here are some test results.
Then I finished up by making kerfs in the bench hook fence.
And the final result ready to go with dedicated shooting plane and cross cut saw.
As to why or how a shooting board shaves work pieces but does not continue to shave into the actual board.
When you first construct the board the shooting fence, if you will, is flat and 90 degrees to the shooting platform. Then you have to “shoot the board in.” This is the first time you side a plane down the board. The iron cuts the “shooting fence” until it reaches the depth a cut. Then the un-cut part of the fence makes contact with the sole of the plane and stops any deeper cutting into the fence.
It is hard to describe so I drew a couple pictures.
#1 – You are looking down the shooting board. It is newly constructed and not shot in. The plane is on its side and youre looking down the sole with the iron extended.
#2 After using the board the iron cuts a grove in the fence but wont go further with the non-cutting part of the sole makes contact.
I hope this helps.
-- "It's only wood. Use it." - Smitty