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danish chair (sanding)

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Project by Annushka posted 11-03-2011 08:03 AM 2149 views 0 times favorited 14 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I did some sanding with 100, 150,220, and I’m going to buy some 240 for final touch. Do I need to use mineral spirits before I apply Tung oil? Or do I need to use some wood lightning solution to get rid of dark spots and stains? Do I need to stain to even out the color of wood? I want those chairs to look their best so all advises would be appreciated. I enjoyed sanding smooth edges of the chair I noticed that the wood grains begin to shine through with golden color. And I’m very glad because at first I thought that I’ve ruined the perfect chair. Some wood parts look different than other and more mahogany color could it be a walnut wood? One guy told me that those chairs made of walnut. And if it is should I treat it differently?

-- Annushka





14 comments so far

View DaddyT's profile

DaddyT

267 posts in 2168 days


#1 posted 11-03-2011 02:33 PM

Some parts do look like walnut, others like red oak. So Im not really 100% on that. But looks like you have some really nice chairs. I would just put a few coats( 3 or 4) of boiled linseed oil, then a clear finish (like blo or a rub on poly)on them myself. But then I always try to show off the woods natural beauty. You would need to rub it down with mineral oil first. And dont be alarmed, it will make the wood change color a little (actually it should make the grains POP out at you) but it will go right back to normal after it dries. You should blow it off first, if you can, to get as much dust as possible off before wiping it down. Hope this helped

Jimi

-- Jimi _ Measure twice, cut once.......@#%#$@!!!......measure twice, cut....

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15698 posts in 2876 days


#2 posted 11-03-2011 02:53 PM

I’m not sure about the wood type. The sanded wood really does look like walnut, but the chair with the finish still on it looks too light to be walnut.

I would definitely NOT put stain on these. Even if you did, it would not even out the color variations. Embrace those variations as part of the beauty of wood!

As to finish, it wouldn’t hurt to wipe them down with mineral spirits first, but it’s not that big a deal. My chise of finish would be boiled linseed oil (BLO). It is pretty foolproof… you just slather it on thick and wipe off the excess. Like Jimi said, the grain will really “pop” out at you. You can do two coats if you want, although I usually find one coat sufficient. After the BLO has cured for a few days, you can finish either with plain old paste wax (like Johnson’s), or a couple coats of wipe-on polyurethane. (For looks and feel, just the wax is great, but the poly gives you some extra protection against spills.)

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View dustyal's profile

dustyal

1200 posts in 2133 days


#3 posted 11-03-2011 02:54 PM

Teak is naturally oily, so when working on boats, we would wipe down well with acetone before finishing. Not so sure if you need to do that for these. But a good alcohol wipe wouldn’t hurt. That won’t raise the grain and you’d get a feel for what a clear coat finish would look like on what is believed to be mixed wood types.

You will be ending up with a very nice set… congratulations on your find.

-- Al H. - small shop, small projects...

View racerglen's profile

racerglen

2303 posts in 1438 days


#4 posted 11-03-2011 02:57 PM

I’m thinking Teak, that was a very common wood in those chairs, my mum in law has a set..
and Charles is bang on..BLO is the way to go..

-- Glen, Vernon B.C. Canada

View Mark A. DeCou's profile

Mark A. DeCou

1992 posts in 3063 days


#5 posted 11-03-2011 03:14 PM

Teak is my guess also. I’m not thinking walnut. But it’s a guess, and hard to tell in photos, especially of shaped parts.
Never finished teak before, so I’m hesitant to give you any wrong advice on the coloring and finishing.
Nice design, well done,
Mark

-- Mark DeCou - American Contemporary Craft Artisan - www.decoustudio.com

View mafe's profile

mafe

9549 posts in 1747 days


#6 posted 11-03-2011 04:41 PM

When i see it on the pictures it looks so nice that you might also think of a soap treatment and then make it light.
I would not play with color, simply bring out the beauty of the wood and accept that it is not all the same, let the wood show it self.
Best thoughts,
Mads

-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

View mafe's profile

mafe

9549 posts in 1747 days


#7 posted 11-03-2011 04:41 PM

Teak

-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

View racerglen's profile

racerglen

2303 posts in 1438 days


#8 posted 11-03-2011 04:46 PM

There you go ! The Danish have spoken !

;-)

-- Glen, Vernon B.C. Canada

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1773 days


#9 posted 11-03-2011 05:09 PM

still think its teak since alot of furniture back then made in DK was teak
so use a blo will bee fine … oil wait 20 minuts and dry up what is still wet
becarefull with the wet oil rags and put them in a closed metal container … you don´t
want the hole place to burn down after all that work :-)

Dennis

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15698 posts in 2876 days


#10 posted 11-03-2011 05:09 PM

Yeah, as soon as Al mentioned teak, I slapped my forehead. That’s definitely what it looks like.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View bobasaurus's profile

bobasaurus

1259 posts in 1842 days


#11 posted 11-03-2011 07:01 PM

Avoid using mineral spirits before finishing. I tried wiping a padauk piece with mineral spirits, letting it dry for an hour or so, then finishing with a tung oil / poly blend finish. It never seemed to cure, always staying tacky, like the oil in the wood worked its way to the surface and interfered with the drying process. The other surrounding wood on that project (maple) cured fine, so this is just a problem with oily woods like padauk, teak, cocobolo, etc. In the end, I wiped the tacky finish with even more mineral spirits, let it dry for a long time, then continued finishing. This seemed to work better, but the finish still never felt as hard as it should. I have since used the same finish on padauk projects without wiping with spirits, and it cured perfecty.

-- Allen, Colorado

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

2449 posts in 2400 days


#12 posted 11-04-2011 12:05 AM

Like the BLO

I would wipe with mineral spirits and see if you like the look with no stain, as well as to see how other marks blend in since the “wet” color will approximate your clear finish. The BLO will be a bit darker, and will darken over time.

The curved crest/arms looks much darker than the frame of the chair – if you need them to match top to bottom, then you need some coloring. Since it lookes pretty close pored wood, I would use a Dye if you need to even the color. – - NOT a stain
Good Luck
Dave

-- "If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves." Edison

View Bradford's profile

Bradford

1434 posts in 2480 days


#13 posted 11-04-2011 04:57 PM

I still love to learn more about these projects. My question to the experts is, “what is the difference between the Denatured alcohol effect vs the Mineral spirits effect on oily woods?” Would Alcohol leave the wood better ready to absorb the BLO? My reasoning is, Mineral spirits would thin the already present oil, without removing enough to give the BLO a chance to seep in.
I’m really looking forward to the finished pics.

-- so much wood, so little time. Bradford. Wood-a-holics unanimous president

View jonni's profile

jonni

9 posts in 1050 days


#14 posted 11-08-2011 08:23 PM

I need to do this to a desk that I have…thanks for the tips

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