|Project by Jeremy Greiner||posted 880 days ago||3464 views||7 times favorited||9 comments|
I’ve had my boxes of drill bits and such sitting at the floor of my drill press for a while now, and it was high time I did something about it. I don’t have a lot of pictures of the making because this was mostly made during my silent phase.
It’s a straight forward box glued together with butt joints (I thought it would be stable enough since it’s not really holding a heavy load but who knows I may regret that decision later). It’s made out of 3/4’’ blondewood from lowes. I like it because it has a lot of layers (not as many as baltic birch) but it’s not voidless like baltic birch is. I filled the visible voids with wood filler and sanded it smooth so they wouldn’t be noticable.
It’s pretty difficult to find a flat peice of plywood from lowes and I often leave the store frustrated with nothing but I don’t know of any better options really. My local woodcraft sells baltic birch I think for 90$ a sheet, instead of the 40$ for the blondewood. I don’t know where else to get wood here in the Apopka/Orlando area, the last place I went to was Hood Dist McEwen group but they wouldn’t talk to me because I wasn’t a business. I was told that my local woodworkers guild has an account there so I should be able to get wood but I was so discouraged from the woman at this place that honestly I don’t think I want to give them my money. My other problem is getting the wood cut, I have to cut it down to 48×32’’ to fit in my mini cooper’s hatchback. At lowes they’ll load it up on the panel saw and slice it down for me, I don’t know if lumber yards would do something like that. I’d love to find a place to get flat plywood (it doesn’t have to be baltic birch) that won’t kill my pocketbook.
Anyrate, back to project talk. On the left side I made a frame with 3/4’’ blondewood again with 1’’ strips and pegboard in the center. The pegboard holds my drill and driver (and other stuff if I desire). On the right side I added a small shelf to hold the drill press fence when I don’t need it and a power strip to plug in my ipod speakers and battery charger that sit on top of the cabinet. The wheels where on sale from harbor freight that just happened to be tall enough to fit over the base of my drill press.
The drawers are made using the same system I used on my lathe stand. They are just 1/2’’ plywood with a 1/4’’ rabbet on the sides that slide in a 1/4’’ dado in the sides of the cabinet. After finish and wax the drawers slide very easily. I opted for nobs this time because of the sawdust factor mentioned by Jim on the lathe stand comments. He’s right sawdust does get into those hand holes so I went for the nobs. Speaking of nobs it’s clear the second drawer from the top is a non-conformist drawer, or maybe a hispter drawer that decided it was too good to stand in line with the rest of the drawers, I don’t know.
I used milk paint again to paint the cabinet and drawer fronts (I didn’t have enough paint to paint the entire drawer). I tried to match the powermatic gold color, I obviously failed but it doesn’t look too bad. Over the milk paint on the box is wipe on polyurethane. The drawers however have 1 coat of wipe on poly to seal in the milk paint and then 2 coats of water based urethane that I sprayed on using the harbor freight hvlp kit and let me say it was fantastic. Spray finishing all 6 drawers in a matter of minutes you just can’t beat it. I don’t think I have the patience or the fortitude to spray oil based varnishes, the cleanup just seems like so much work. But at the same time I like the warming effect oil based varnishes often have on wood. I read that you can use trans tint on your first coat of water based varnish to get the same warm/ambering effect. If anyone has some suggestions on that let me know because water based hvlp is in my life now and I don’t think I can let it go.
-- Easy to use end grain cutting board designer: http://www.1024studios.com/cuttingboard.html