Spalm design End grain Cutting Board build - Part 3

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Project by CalgaryGeoff posted 1056 days ago 5683 views 32 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch

The board is coming along quite well. Unfortunately druing the glue up of the triangle blocks into rows a few pieces became misaligned. That resulted in a few small gaps being present which of course are not desireable as they hold nasty bacteria. So this board will have to be turned into a serving tray.

The glue up jig worked well but needs a bit of a modification to ensure futrue glue ups are perfect. I will be adding ten more screws on each side of it to give more control for the alignment of pieces within. The jig in the picture worked by putting pressure on each block with a screw. With only five screws per side there was not enough control but with more screws control will become better and therefore glue ups.

-- If you believe you can or can not do a thing, you are correct.

13 comments so far

View degoose's profile


6996 posts in 1986 days

#1 posted 1056 days ago

Rather ingenious…

-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ For lovers of all things timber...

View Mike's profile


20 posts in 1058 days

#2 posted 1056 days ago

Nice work.

View Dusty56's profile


11644 posts in 2319 days

#3 posted 1056 days ago

Well done ! Nice illusion : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View cajunpen's profile


14378 posts in 2697 days

#4 posted 1056 days ago

That is really nice – the 3D effect really jumps out at you.

-- Bill - "Suit yourself and let the rest be pleased."

View LittlePaw's profile


1571 posts in 1710 days

#5 posted 1055 days ago

Your choice of wood really made the 3D effect jump out at me. I would hang it on a wall – even if it wasn’t perfect ! :) Nice job!

-- LittlePAW - The sweetest sound in my shop, next to Mozart, is what a hand plane makes slicing a ribbon.

View childress's profile


841 posts in 2173 days

#6 posted 1055 days ago

fill the gaps with epoxy…. and you’re good to go. You can even get a tint to color the epoxy so it matches whatever wood you want it to.

-- Childress Woodworks

View Ken90712's profile


14878 posts in 1820 days

#7 posted 1055 days ago

Nice job and cool little jig as well.

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View SPalm's profile


4788 posts in 2513 days

#8 posted 1055 days ago

I would fill the ‘gaps’ (but I don’t see them) and use it.

Nice job,

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View Randolph Torres's profile

Randolph Torres

295 posts in 2160 days

#9 posted 999 days ago

I noticed the screw clamp end of glue up jig, if you were to cut a scrap piece with the same angle on one side and a 90 degree on the other you would get a better purchase on the leading triangle. Love your work.

-- another tip from cooperedpatterns

View CalgaryGeoff's profile


937 posts in 1113 days

#10 posted 998 days ago

Thanks very much. The idea is a good one. Next version of the screw jig will have a few changes made to it.

-- If you believe you can or can not do a thing, you are correct.

View RetiredCoastie's profile


999 posts in 1814 days

#11 posted 960 days ago

I’m a little late to the game but here is the glue up jigs for the triangles I came up with based on Geoff’s design with a couple of modifications.

First I added an extra bolt to each triangle and instead of having bolts on both side I substituted a thick straight edge that acted as a caul giving me 1 true flat square surface. Then I applied heavy duty thick packing tape to all surfaces that would come in contact with glue squeeze out. I performed a dry run and found that the added bolts gave me a little more control for tweaking the triangles but not enough to close up a few of the gaps. next I identified the pieces with the gaps and lightly sanded those edges on a flat piece of MDF with a belt sander belt that was attached to the MDF via double sided tape. This closed up any gaps and maintained a true straight edge that would be parallel to the triangles non-bolt side. Because during tightening of the 2 end bolts the triangles didn’t slide inward as expected so I took a piece of thin cutting Matt and placed it under the triangles, thaen added a piece of cutting board board material between the clamping bolts and the triangles. This allowed the triangls to freely move into position closing up the gaps. I added an angled piece to each end and added thread protecters to each bolt. Once everything is clamped I added a piece of MDF to act as a caul to keep all the triangles flat to the base of the jig.

The next jig is my own design for performing the initial glue up of the ripped stock. This clamp worked very well and I had zero gaps once I removed the sticks from the jig.

During the glue up I applied blue tape to all surfaces that I didn’t wish to have any glue on. This saved me a lot of scraping. I also use TITEBOND II EXTEND which is FDA APPROVED and gives you plenty of open time so you can position the pieces together to insure an aligned fit.

I hope this helps and I’d like to thank SPALM for his ideas and showing us the way and Geoff for his design of the triangle clamping jig and their willingness to share with others!

-- Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

View CalgaryGeoff's profile


937 posts in 1113 days

#12 posted 959 days ago

Mike very nice jig for both initial glue up and the second glue up. I like your ideas for both. Thanks for making and sharing your ideas too. Even with jigs this board sure takes a long time to make.


-- If you believe you can or can not do a thing, you are correct.

View Tornado78's profile


5 posts in 342 days

#13 posted 321 days ago

Very good!

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