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Spalm design End grain Cutting Board build - Part 3

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Project by CalgaryGeoff posted 10-06-2011 08:37 PM 6415 views 33 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch

The board is coming along quite well. Unfortunately druing the glue up of the triangle blocks into rows a few pieces became misaligned. That resulted in a few small gaps being present which of course are not desireable as they hold nasty bacteria. So this board will have to be turned into a serving tray.

The glue up jig worked well but needs a bit of a modification to ensure futrue glue ups are perfect. I will be adding ten more screws on each side of it to give more control for the alignment of pieces within. The jig in the picture worked by putting pressure on each block with a screw. With only five screws per side there was not enough control but with more screws control will become better and therefore glue ups.

-- If you believe you can or can not do a thing, you are correct.





13 comments so far

View degoose's profile

degoose

7051 posts in 2102 days


#1 posted 10-06-2011 09:34 PM

Rather ingenious…

-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ lazylarrywoodworks.com.au For lovers of all things timber...

View Mike's profile

Mike

20 posts in 1174 days


#2 posted 10-06-2011 09:54 PM

Nice work.

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11684 posts in 2436 days


#3 posted 10-06-2011 11:30 PM

Well done ! Nice illusion : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View cajunpen's profile

cajunpen

14429 posts in 2814 days


#4 posted 10-07-2011 12:48 AM

That is really nice – the 3D effect really jumps out at you.

-- Bill - "Suit yourself and let the rest be pleased." http://www.cajunpen.com/

View LittlePaw's profile

LittlePaw

1571 posts in 1826 days


#5 posted 10-07-2011 03:39 AM

Your choice of wood really made the 3D effect jump out at me. I would hang it on a wall – even if it wasn’t perfect ! :) Nice job!

-- LittlePAW - The sweetest sound in my shop, next to Mozart, is what a hand plane makes slicing a ribbon.

View childress's profile

childress

841 posts in 2290 days


#6 posted 10-07-2011 06:49 AM

fill the gaps with epoxy…. and you’re good to go. You can even get a tint to color the epoxy so it matches whatever wood you want it to.

-- Childress Woodworks

View Ken90712's profile

Ken90712

15304 posts in 1937 days


#7 posted 10-07-2011 10:55 AM

Nice job and cool little jig as well.

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

4935 posts in 2630 days


#8 posted 10-07-2011 04:13 PM

Sweet.
I would fill the ‘gaps’ (but I don’t see them) and use it.

Nice job,
Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View Randolph Torres's profile

Randolph Torres

295 posts in 2276 days


#9 posted 12-02-2011 10:11 PM

I noticed the screw clamp end of glue up jig, if you were to cut a scrap piece with the same angle on one side and a 90 degree on the other you would get a better purchase on the leading triangle. Love your work.

-- another tip from cooperedpatterns

View CalgaryGeoff's profile

CalgaryGeoff

937 posts in 1230 days


#10 posted 12-03-2011 04:37 PM

Thanks very much. The idea is a good one. Next version of the screw jig will have a few changes made to it.

-- If you believe you can or can not do a thing, you are correct.

View RetiredCoastie's profile

RetiredCoastie

999 posts in 1931 days


#11 posted 01-10-2012 05:13 PM

I’m a little late to the game but here is the glue up jigs for the triangles I came up with based on Geoff’s design with a couple of modifications.

First I added an extra bolt to each triangle and instead of having bolts on both side I substituted a thick straight edge that acted as a caul giving me 1 true flat square surface. Then I applied heavy duty thick packing tape to all surfaces that would come in contact with glue squeeze out. I performed a dry run and found that the added bolts gave me a little more control for tweaking the triangles but not enough to close up a few of the gaps. next I identified the pieces with the gaps and lightly sanded those edges on a flat piece of MDF with a belt sander belt that was attached to the MDF via double sided tape. This closed up any gaps and maintained a true straight edge that would be parallel to the triangles non-bolt side. Because during tightening of the 2 end bolts the triangles didn’t slide inward as expected so I took a piece of thin cutting Matt and placed it under the triangles, thaen added a piece of cutting board board material between the clamping bolts and the triangles. This allowed the triangls to freely move into position closing up the gaps. I added an angled piece to each end and added thread protecters to each bolt. Once everything is clamped I added a piece of MDF to act as a caul to keep all the triangles flat to the base of the jig.

The next jig is my own design for performing the initial glue up of the ripped stock. This clamp worked very well and I had zero gaps once I removed the sticks from the jig.

During the glue up I applied blue tape to all surfaces that I didn’t wish to have any glue on. This saved me a lot of scraping. I also use TITEBOND II EXTEND which is FDA APPROVED and gives you plenty of open time so you can position the pieces together to insure an aligned fit.

I hope this helps and I’d like to thank SPALM for his ideas and showing us the way and Geoff for his design of the triangle clamping jig and their willingness to share with others!

-- www.thepatriotwoodworker.com Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

View CalgaryGeoff's profile

CalgaryGeoff

937 posts in 1230 days


#12 posted 01-11-2012 08:10 AM

Mike very nice jig for both initial glue up and the second glue up. I like your ideas for both. Thanks for making and sharing your ideas too. Even with jigs this board sure takes a long time to make.

Geoff

-- If you believe you can or can not do a thing, you are correct.

View Tornado78's profile

Tornado78

5 posts in 458 days


#13 posted 10-10-2013 08:02 PM

Very good!

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