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Spalm design End grain Cutting Board build - Part 2 layout and fit

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Project by CalgaryGeoff posted 09-22-2011 07:57 PM 4381 views 22 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I am working on a Spalm cutting board design and have completed all the intial cutting and gluing in preparation for the next round of gluing.

The triangle glue up jig worked out great and this is currently where I am at in the build process. The six peices I statred with yeilded 85 blocks, one inch thick slices. So that is enough bricks to build a board ten blocks by 8 rows. I had just enough of them.

All indications are this board is going to work out. I only have to figure out a gluing technique for the little triangles that does not require me holding them by hand.

Next set of photos will be the completed board.

-- If you believe you can or can not do a thing, you are correct.





13 comments so far

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

4845 posts in 2572 days


#1 posted 09-22-2011 08:45 PM

Nice work Geoff. Looks like really precise stuff there.
It will be interesting on how your final glue up goes.
Don’t forget to keep looking while gluing. It is easy to put in a piece upside down.

Are you going to use the design layout that you have in Pic 2 and 3? It is kind of cool, but different than the original.

Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View LittlePaw's profile

LittlePaw

1571 posts in 1768 days


#2 posted 09-22-2011 08:58 PM

I don’t think my table saw is capable of repeat cutting of that many precision pcs. You did a great job, Geoff. It’s going to be a beaut when you get it finished – corerction, it is already a beaut, you just have to finish it!

-- LittlePAW - The sweetest sound in my shop, next to Mozart, is what a hand plane makes slicing a ribbon.

View lew's profile

lew

10094 posts in 2445 days


#3 posted 09-22-2011 09:47 PM

Maybe this would help clamp them-

http://lumberjocks.com/Steuss/blog/25048

Lew

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View degoose's profile

degoose

7038 posts in 2044 days


#4 posted 09-22-2011 10:10 PM

The variation on the original is good…would like to see it with finish so that the colours and grains pop…

-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ lazylarrywoodworks.com.au For lovers of all things timber...

View CalgaryGeoff's profile

CalgaryGeoff

937 posts in 1171 days


#5 posted 09-22-2011 10:44 PM

Steve, thanks the joints are rather tight. It was the clamps. I plan to use the pattern as it’s laid out. From a different angle it looks like yours. I think what happened here was when I selected my cherry and maple I choose similar colors by accident. The maple is dark like cherry and the cherry light like maple. It does not have enough color variation to make it jump out. In the future I must pay more attention to wood grain and color selection. I have a few boards from another project that have the same wood I will post when finished the variation is dramatic between the two.

I currently only use mineral oil to finish my boards and have been thinking about adding bees wax into the oil. Think it will be a shinier finish than oil alone. Any thoughts?

-- If you believe you can or can not do a thing, you are correct.

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

4845 posts in 2572 days


#6 posted 09-22-2011 10:55 PM

Hey Geoff, I zoomed in on the picture and it is as you stated (i.e. I misspoke). I bet once the oil is added and a little time goes by it the maple and cherry will look different. Nice.

I have found that several coats of just oil is important at first before you add the wax. That way it can soak in very deeply. I also have taken to washing the boards with soap and water after a couple of oils and then lightly sanding to remove the fuzz. You mileage may vary. Everyone seems to have a different take on this. I just make them for gifts and don’t sell them.

Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View CalgaryGeoff's profile

CalgaryGeoff

937 posts in 1171 days


#7 posted 09-22-2011 11:10 PM

Steve you make nice gifts. I also revisited your blog on the build and I might have switched walnut and cherry.

Your idea for oiling first and bees wax after makes good sense. Does the wax add gloss to the final finish?

-- If you believe you can or can not do a thing, you are correct.

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

4845 posts in 2572 days


#8 posted 09-23-2011 01:32 AM

Yes the wax adds a nice luster. I don’t know if I want a gloss finish.

There is a product available here called Howard Butcher Block Conditioner. It is oil and wax. Really nice stuff and we can buy it at the big box stores. Several LJs swear by it. But like I mentioned, when I tried it all by itself it looked great with just two applications, and then failed the kitchen clean up test. It is more expensive that drug store mineral oil too, so a couple of good soaks in oil, and then the Howards.

Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View amagineer's profile

amagineer

1389 posts in 1287 days


#9 posted 09-23-2011 01:42 AM

Geoff: I like your idea of gluing up the triangle pieces. I wish I would have had this info last week when I was trying to do that with my quilt CB. I will use this wonderful idea when a project comes up again. I agree with Steve when it comes to finishing. I bought a small crockpot (5” dia) at the thrift store for $2 and keep my mixture of mineral oil/beeswax in. I keep a 12×18 piece of tshirt cloth in the mixture. I heat the crockpot up and cover the CB with the warm cloth for a few hours and let the mixture absorb into the wood, flip the CB and repeat. Thanks Don

-- Flaws are only in the eye of the artisan!

View scueplain's profile

scueplain

42 posts in 1131 days


#10 posted 09-23-2011 02:14 AM

The piece really looks 3d. I had to look at it awhile to make sure the surface was flat. Nice job.

-- Dave,Portland OR

View CalgaryGeoff's profile

CalgaryGeoff

937 posts in 1171 days


#11 posted 09-29-2011 02:18 AM

Lee, the site inspired me and I was able to build a gluing jig for ten pieces at a time. Do that eight times and I’m done. I’m on my third row now. Sure a lot of gluing on this board.

-- If you believe you can or can not do a thing, you are correct.

View recidivist's profile

recidivist

3 posts in 1647 days


#12 posted 10-04-2011 06:50 AM

Geoff, thanks for your great idea on the pipe clamps: my triangle logs came out very good. Not at all happy about gluing the triangles into strips, and then gluing the strips together—eleven separate glue-ups, and I have to say I didn’t do a good job, and spent two hours on the drum sander cleaning it up! Well, the punishment fit the crime I guess… Any insights you come up with on the gluing process woulld be much appreciated! Thanks again!

View CalgaryGeoff's profile

CalgaryGeoff

937 posts in 1171 days


#13 posted 10-04-2011 07:19 AM

Recidivist – The pipe clamps and cauls sure do make great “triangle logs” tight joints for sure and flat edges. I too was not looking forward to gluing the “triangle blocks” cut from the logs. I build a jig and it worked very well for gluing up the rows. They were mostly flush on top but a little clean up was required on my drum sander (Maybe 15 minutes). The strips glued up well in jig version 1.0 but were a little crooked end to end. In jig version 1.1 that crookedness will be totally eliminated. Luckily I was able to straighten them on the tablesaw. I then used another CB gluing jig and glued up all the rows together in one shot into a board. Like mentioned above 15 min on drum sander and I’m almost finished. It just needs oil and a bloodwood frame added. When it’s finished I will post it and the jig I used to glue the blocks into rows. Dang sure a lot of gluing on this board.

Steve, did you design this board to drive up 3M stock price?

-- If you believe you can or can not do a thing, you are correct.

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