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#1 posted 08-18-2011 02:37 AM
How do you make sure the blade is at the right angle? Or is it really just getting it parallel to the base by pressing down and clamping it? You may see from this comment that I haven’t got a router plane yet :-)
I like it!
-- Alex ----- Bavaria in Germany
719 posts in 1252 days
#2 posted 08-18-2011 02:51 AM
This is great. I’ve been playing around with a router plane just recently and they do a good job so I’m sure you will find this one very useful.
-- I may have lost my marbles, but I still have my love of woodworking
#3 posted 08-18-2011 03:03 AM
Great question. If you look at the third pic showing the bottom of the blade, you’ll see a hex screw there to secure the replaceable blade to the stem. I don’t want the blade bottom to be rubbing the surface when I plane.
In the PWM article, the blade bottom was ground to provide a relief but in my case I can’t do that as there’s the screw in the way. So I predrilled and filed the slot for the stem at a slight angle so when the stem is clamped to the body, there is a relief to prevent skating off without being able to cut.
Thanks for asking.
2492 posts in 1842 days
#4 posted 08-18-2011 03:26 AM
wow Chuck – that is awesome!! looks really really good
-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!
2496 posts in 1762 days
#5 posted 08-18-2011 04:42 AM
That just went in my favorite box. Great job.
-- Dan, Naperville IL, I.G.N.
3314 posts in 1405 days
#6 posted 08-18-2011 04:47 AM
Can you go a bit into the hardware? I really like the simplicity of this design as well as the lovely way you finished it.
I really like my old Stanley router but I would love to make a closed moth router for plane-making.
-- Make furniture that lasts as long as the tree - Ryan
#7 posted 08-18-2011 04:53 AM
I didn’t provide a list of the items as I didn’t want to be seen as promoting the LV products. Since you asked, here’s the full list:
Large blade – http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=52609&cat=1,41182,48945,52609
Small – http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=57677&cat=1,41182,57677 (if you plan to make a small router plane)
Thumbscrew and wing nut – http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=61651&cat=3,43576,61994,61651 (items B & F)
Knobs – http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=48302&cat=1,41182,48302
Insert nuts – http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=44203&cat=3,41306,41311
(The last two are optional and you don’t need them if you don’t plan to have handles for the plane.)
#8 posted 08-18-2011 05:05 AM
Thanks but he hardware I was concerned about (I identified the Veritas blade right off the bat) was the piece that captures the post of the blade.
15559 posts in 1318 days
#9 posted 08-18-2011 06:06 AM
-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com
9687 posts in 1840 days
#10 posted 08-18-2011 08:20 AM
That is a mighty fine grannytooth there.
Here is my antique one.Not nearly as elegant as yours.
-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.
#11 posted 08-18-2011 10:07 AM
@ChuckMThanks for explaining. I got the idea now. Sounds manageable, so I might build a router plane myself instead of buying one some day in the future.
Keep up the good work!
2691 posts in 1827 days
#12 posted 08-18-2011 02:47 PM
Just the other day I was sitting in my shop wishing I had one of these…. And here I find a beauty. Wonderful job. I am soooo building me one!
Thanks for sharing!
-- Dan ~ Texarkana, Tx.
12951 posts in 1444 days
#13 posted 08-18-2011 02:50 PM
I’m with RG, confused about the blade stablility given the capturing ring. I must be missing something obvious.
-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog
#14 posted 08-18-2011 03:00 PM
Thanks all for the comments.
MADS – All your shop-made hand tools are lovely-looking; I wish I had the time to make some of yours.
Bertha – The LV router plane blade’s post/stem is square and not round. I filed a square slot on the thumbscrew for a tight fit. The blade is inserted into the square slot and clamped to the body with the turns of the wing nut. The blade is not going anywhere when I plane (or shave). If one uses an Allen wrench as the blade, the slot will be hexagonal. Make sure the body is made of hardwood like oak, cherry, etc. rather softwood. (RGtools was asking for the details of the hardware used to secure the post which is a large malleable iron thumbscrew.)
All who plan to make one of these – The Aug. 2005 issue of PWM has an 1/2” grid scale template. You need to enlarge the template to full size and cut a square slot instead of a hex slot on the thumbscrew. Other than using a commercial blade and adding the handles, my design is largely the same as the one in the article by John Wilson. There are many advantages of using a LV blade:
-It’s of top quality (sharp to use from the box)-You can change the cutter profile-You don’t have to modify an Allen wrench to make a blade (which may not be easy to some and it also needs time to make it sharp)-It’s easier to file and make a square slot than a hexagonal slot.
#15 posted 08-18-2011 05:08 PM
I forgot to say that you have some wonderful planes in that second last picture. ;-)
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