|Project by Smitty_Cabinetshop||posted 866 days ago||5814 views||33 times favorited||44 comments|
Timeframe: Mar – Jul 2011
Wood Used: Reclaimed Walnut and Century-Old Pine
Galoot Index: 9 on a 10 point scale. Hand planed all surfaces, hand-cut dovetails, traditional router (#71) work, chiseled dados throughout. RAS for ripping panels, TS to cut drawer parts
Cost: $21 for hardware (Van Dykes), $1 for material (old walnut table)
Got tired of not having my most commonly used hand tools at the bench, and the single undermounted drawer simply wasn’t cutting it anymore. My bench is a Roubo through and through, and for the first couple years of its use I kept the whole area under the bench clear of major obstructions. I did add a small side drawer, and used it ALL THE TIME to store and retrieve bench hammers, rulers, gauges and knives. It was a great addition, and the bottom shelf stayed clear of storage. As time passed I learned a few things about the way I work:
- I didn’t keep commonly used tools below the bench during a project because it was a pain. Everything put down there got covered in shavings and dust and it was no fun reaching up and down. There are wall-mounted cabinets for my tools nearby (very nearby) and I prefer reaching over stooping low.
- When I kept less-used tools there, like a Langdon mitre saw, it got filthy AND was hard to get at. I had to clean dust and debris from under the bench every week or so, and I’d rather be building than cleaning.
- I didn’t need the reserved space for clamp clearance. I don’t have deep reach clamps that require pipes or bars to extend more than a foot into / underneath the bench.
So I did a pen-and-ink drawing of something that would work. And I built the carcase to improve my dovetailing skills while trying mitered dovetails for the first time. It’s a low-profile cabinet that allows for hold down clearance, first and foremost (I use them all the time). The cabinet can be a “during-work” place for tools that isn’t so stinking low to the ground. It sits back in the space to allow clearance for the bench’s sliding deadman. And it has a Big Drawer that holds my #45 (with blade sets and spare rods) and leather chisel roll. Drawers open and close around the deadman, but of course the deadman just lifts out if access to the whole cabinet is a higher priority than supporting long work.
For more details, and I mean details, see the blog series.
EDIT – Added end vise to bench to line up with dog holes that were added to bench during this build. Read about the vise install here.
-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive