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Cherry Shaker Table

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Project by CedarFreakCarl posted 02-05-2008 04:24 AM 1879 views 4 times favorited 22 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Here’s a shaker style table I built for my wife to put a fish tank on. Joinery is mortise and tenon. Drawer sides are hard maple with half-blind dovetails. The legs are just a tad beefy for a table of this size, but like I said, my wife is going to put a fish tank on it. The legs are 2 1/8” at the top and 1 1/8” at the bottom with an inside taper. The table is 30” high, 25” wide and 19” deep with a 2 5/8” deep drawer. The finish is wipe on poly. I got this wood at Woodzone. Karl said he’d obtained it from a furniture refurbishing outfit that kept old cherry on site so as to repair older cherry furniture. I wish I had a truck load of this stuff.
Dovetails

-- Carl Rast, Pelion, SC





22 comments so far

View rpmurphy509's profile

rpmurphy509

288 posts in 2511 days


#1 posted 02-05-2008 04:28 AM

Gorgeous table.
Too good for a lowly fish tank :)

-- Still learning everything

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 2478 days


#2 posted 02-05-2008 04:43 AM

Ditto rpmurhpy’s comments. The dovetails and the finish look good.

Thanks for sharing.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Les Hastings's profile

Les Hastings

1275 posts in 2429 days


#3 posted 02-05-2008 04:52 AM

Very nice,,,,,don’t think I would hide it with a fish tank though. Make another out of one 8’ 2×4 to put the tank on! ; )

-- Les, Wichita, Ks. (I'd rather be covered in saw dust!)

View Tomas's profile

Tomas

45 posts in 2644 days


#4 posted 02-05-2008 05:57 AM

I like the table – having never built one before, I noticed that the gap between the drawer opening and drawer is pretty symmetrical – I was wondering how you create a gap on the bottom if the drawer is sliding on drawer runners – how did you create the effect of a gap – it does not look like you used drawer slides so I was wondering how you got the lift to the drawer front to create the appearance of space under the drawer front? Thanks.

View Dan'um Style's profile

Dan'um Style

13003 posts in 2639 days


#5 posted 02-05-2008 06:00 AM

nice looking table. I like the knob. did you make that too ?

-- keeping myself entertained ... Humor and fun lubricate the brain

View CedarFreakCarl's profile

CedarFreakCarl

594 posts in 2710 days


#6 posted 02-05-2008 06:48 AM

Thanks guys for the great comments. Les, I wish you’d said that about a month ago, I think I could have come up with something interesting. Truthfully I just couldn’t come up with anything on my own which is why I didn’t enter. lol.
Tomas, the drawer was of course made first with about 1/16” gap around the whole drawer face. I then made some L shaped drawer sliders out of two pieces of 3/4” hard maple and drilled them w/ square bottom countersinks for for pan head screws. Then I drilled out the screw holes so that the threads wouldn’t grab on the L shaped slider and would also give a tad of wiggle room so that you can adjust it a hair if the slide moves on you while putting in the screw. Next take the drawer face and wedge it around the perimeter so that there is a 1/16” gap all the way around. You can also use some squeeze clamps to help hold it in position. Next take the pre-drilled L shaped sliders and place them snugly underneath the drawer. Clamp them with two or three clamps. Screw them in place. check your up and down drawer alignment and if the sliders crept any on you, just loosen the screws and move them as necessary. Check the alignment of the drawer face and reclamp if necessary. Next the side to side movement need to be addressed. Measure the side gaps and cut a spacer out of some 3/4” stock and screw to the table sides. leave a hair less than a 1/16” on each side between the spacer and the side of the drawer. The only thing left to do is to put the kicker/top mount assembly on which is just the same L shaped slider turned upside down with slotted holes facing the table top to allow for seasonal movement due to moisture. I knew I should have taken some pictures on the construction. I’ll see if I can post some tomorrow.
Dan, I can’t take credit for the knob. I wish I could!

-- Carl Rast, Pelion, SC

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 2644 days


#7 posted 02-05-2008 07:02 AM

Very nice table! Excellent work.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View rikkor's profile

rikkor

11295 posts in 2531 days


#8 posted 02-05-2008 11:19 AM

It’s beautiful, and the finish looks perfect.

View relic's profile

relic

343 posts in 2593 days


#9 posted 02-05-2008 01:47 PM

Really good looking table.

-- Andy Stark

View MsDebbieP's profile

MsDebbieP

18615 posts in 2817 days


#10 posted 02-05-2008 02:19 PM

nice!
I agree.. a shame to cover up that table top

-- ~ Debbie, Canada (https://www.facebook.com/DebbiePribeleENJOConsultant)

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

4819 posts in 2538 days


#11 posted 02-05-2008 03:17 PM

Very nice. That wipe on poly did it justice. Did you use filler or stain underneath?
I wish I had a truck load of that cherry too. It looks wonderful.

Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View Critterman's profile

Critterman

595 posts in 2466 days


#12 posted 02-05-2008 04:16 PM

Nice work, great looking table.

-- Jim Hallada, Chesterfield, VA

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15698 posts in 2874 days


#13 posted 02-05-2008 04:21 PM

Beautiful job, Carl!

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Vezq's profile

Vezq

6 posts in 2422 days


#14 posted 02-05-2008 05:26 PM

Now there’s an example how the dovetails should be done, Nice work

View Bob A in NJ's profile

Bob A in NJ

1145 posts in 2655 days


#15 posted 02-06-2008 12:59 AM

Wonderful looking table, classic design. What are your tricks for preventing chipout on those beautiful dovetails? Which doveil jig do you use?

-- Bob A in NJ

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