LumberJocks

Cross-cut sled

  • Advertise with us
Project by DrJosh posted 1136 days ago 2417 views 6 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I built this cross-cut sled for my new table saw in just a few hours on a Saturday afternoon. I used 1/2” MDF for the base and a laminated double thickness of 3/4” baltic birch plywood for the front and rear fences. I squared the front fence to the blade using first my framing square, then double checked with my adjustable square, and a final triple check with my drafting triangle. Then, I checked the sled with the 5 cut method after seeing it down on the woodwhisperer.com. I ended up with an error of 0.03” over a span of about 30”. I’ve done a few test cuts and I’m very pleased with the results. I’m looking forward to using this cross-cut sled on my upcoming projects, which are consequently on hold until my summer teaching duties are over.

I’m so happy to finally have a table saw with standard-sized miter slots so that I can build and use jigs like this and alsu purchase commercial miter slot accessories if I choose.

-- Josh....in Nashville, TN





13 comments so far

View jeff's profile

jeff

634 posts in 2069 days


#1 posted 1136 days ago

nice…

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

View Beginningwoodworker's profile

Beginningwoodworker

13337 posts in 2277 days


#2 posted 1136 days ago

Nice looking cross-cut sled.

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker

View Woodstock's profile

Woodstock

229 posts in 1892 days


#3 posted 1136 days ago

Nice. And a very handy accessory for a table saw. I use mine a lot.

And I’m impressed that you know how to compute the error rate over a given distance. Most folks who aren’t machinists bother with that kind of accuracy. Tip of the hat.

Now I’m NOT being critical. Honest!
But two kudos to the first person to see and name what’s wrong in both pictures.

(It kinda just “jumped out at me”.....)

-DW

-- I'm not old. Just "well seasoned".

View TurnTurnTurn's profile

TurnTurnTurn

585 posts in 1713 days


#4 posted 1136 days ago

Nice job, I plan to build one of these soon. Not sure what DW is referring to, it all looks good to me.

-- TurnTurnTurn

View DrJosh's profile

DrJosh

50 posts in 1497 days


#5 posted 1136 days ago

Now, I do admit that I still need to put some type of blade guard where the blade exits the front fence. My shop is my garage and its not climate controlled, so after an afternoon of 93+ I was ready to be done with the basic project completed. Did I find what you were hinting at, DW?

-- Josh....in Nashville, TN

View FlairWoodworks's profile

FlairWoodworks

71 posts in 1143 days


#6 posted 1136 days ago

N6DSW – the thing wrong in the pictures is that the sled is not cut all the way to the back, so if the sled is pulled too far forwards, it will hit the blade. If the blade is turning, the sled will be kicked back. I noticed that right away too.

-- Chris Wong -- http://flairwoodworks.wordpress.com --

View Woodstock's profile

Woodstock

229 posts in 1892 days


#7 posted 1136 days ago

That’s a good addition putting a blade guard on the side closet to the operator. but that’s not what I spotted.

(It kinda just “jumped out at me”…..) was a hint.

Shouldn’t the saw blade cut go fully front to back, rather than 2/3 of the way through the MDF? I’d be VERY worried that the back of the saw blade rising out of the saw table would catch the MDF where the saw cut stops, sending the sled flying towards the operator.

Further, isn’t the two layers of ply farthest away from the operator there to keep the MDF from pinching against the saw blade? But since there is no full cut front to back on your sled then why would you need the back ply? So it has no purpose unless you complete the cut in the MDF front to back.

As it sits in the pictures unless you only plan on cutting stock less then 6-8” inch wide you run a real risk of sled and material getting kicked back at you should you pull the sled too far towards you when you reposition the stock in the sled with the saw on.

Answer: Very simple 20 second fix. Just finish the cut w/ the blade just above the surface of the MDF but not through the ply brace completely and it would be a lot safer. Then just about any wood flat stock that will fit between the plywood but less than 1/3 the height of the lowest ply brace will be relatively safe to cut, all things being equal. Search LJ for other sled examples to see what I mean.

I apologize if I sound like your mother. But I’d hate to hear you got hurt. And stuff (kick-back) moves amazingly fast around power tools. Faster than you or I could ever get out of the way of in time. (Er, don’t ask how I know.)

Better yet (And I catch myself not doing this.) Get into the habit of standing to one side in case something does come back at you while you cut.

Other than that you’ll enjoy the sled and the saw once you get a better saw blade.. Stock blades are not very good in comparison to a quality aftermarket blade such as Forest brand blades and others. I’m always amazed as to how glass smooth the cut is once I upgraded the saw to a carbide blade. Very nice tight glue lines.

-DW

-- I'm not old. Just "well seasoned".

View Woodstock's profile

Woodstock

229 posts in 1892 days


#8 posted 1136 days ago

Flatwoodworks posted the correct answer while I was posting my reply. He gets the two kudos.

-- I'm not old. Just "well seasoned".

View bobasaurus's profile

bobasaurus

1180 posts in 1788 days


#9 posted 1136 days ago

I have the same saw. It does great for a portable. I made a miniature crosscut sled that just rides either to the left or right of the blade only. It cuts really nicely, and tearout is minimal despite not supporting the piece from both sides. It’s great getting square cuts without elaborate setup.

-- Allen, Colorado

View BasHolland's profile

BasHolland

84 posts in 1286 days


#10 posted 1136 days ago

I liked the kudo-question from N6DSW!!! :)

....but I didn’t find the answer….till now.

Nice clean cutting sled!

-- Bas, Holland

View DrJosh's profile

DrJosh

50 posts in 1497 days


#11 posted 1133 days ago

Hey DW: Thanks for the info about the kerf in the sled base. This afternoon, I lowered the blade to just barely abouve the level of the base, turned the saw on, and carefully ran the sled back to extend the cut all the way through the base. Thanks again for the heads up. I still need to add the blade guard and I plan to add that this weekend.

-- Josh....in Nashville, TN

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4806 posts in 1778 days


#12 posted 1133 days ago

Very nice !!!

And … as a fellow contractor’s saw user … I applaud the bold move you made, of making a sled that DWARFS your saw….

:-)

-- -- Neil

View meikou's profile

meikou

115 posts in 2239 days


#13 posted 816 days ago

I have the dw744 and I’ve been trying to build a sled for it. I have the incra mitre bars but I cant get them to slide nicely and not have any slop. I checked the slots with a caliper and they aren’t the same width all the way. They’re not wildly out but I guess it’s enough for the bars to bind.

What did you use for runners?

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase