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Shaker End Table

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Project by Mauricio posted 05-26-2011 03:42 PM 1547 views 0 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This is an end table I made about a year ago based on Popular Woodworking plans.

I needed a place to put my drink while I sat on my couch and watched tv.

The wood used is Red Oak. The drawer is made of Poplar.

This is also my first attempt at hand cut dovetails. I made a box first as a warm up.

The finish is Transtint Aniline Dye, BLO, and wax. I like the finish and it has held up ok. The only problem is that we used to have a bottle of hand sanitizer on the table and my son started playing with it and got some on the table. it washed out some of the dye on a couple of spots. The finish would have been fine for this table if it wasnt dyed.

Hope you like it. Let me know if you have any questions.

The last pic is a box I did to warm up for the dovetails I did on the drawer.

Thanks!

-- Mauricio - Woodstock, GA - "Confusion is the Womb of Learning, with utter conviction being it's Tomb" Prof. T.O. Nitsch





13 comments so far

View christopheralan's profile

christopheralan

1105 posts in 2373 days


#1 posted 05-26-2011 04:07 PM

Great looking table! Dovetails are perfect!

-- christopheralan http://www.projectwoodworks.com

View Beginningwoodworker's profile

Beginningwoodworker

13341 posts in 2325 days


#2 posted 05-26-2011 04:14 PM

Beautiful end table, nice job on the dovetails.

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1346 days


#3 posted 05-26-2011 04:44 PM

Love it. Well executed dovetails and the contrast is nice. I hate red oak, but I sure like what you’ve done with it!

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View Mauricio's profile

Mauricio

6818 posts in 1804 days


#4 posted 05-26-2011 05:10 PM

I’m about done with red oak too. It got me good at sharpening chisels and plane blades though.

When I first started woodworking I found a guy with 100bf of it in is basment for 10yrs. He had a tree cut up that fell in his yard in Tennessee.

I still have some left I need to use up.

-- Mauricio - Woodstock, GA - "Confusion is the Womb of Learning, with utter conviction being it's Tomb" Prof. T.O. Nitsch

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1346 days


#5 posted 05-26-2011 05:12 PM

Red oak’s a formidable foe and it’ll definitely build your sharpening skills. I tackled a 1” thick purpleheart humidor using hand tools once. I’m still not over it:) I love the Shaker style in any wood. You really did it justice.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View DLCW's profile

DLCW

523 posts in 1307 days


#6 posted 05-26-2011 06:47 PM

Great job Mauricio. I love the proportions and the craftsmanship. Great job on the dovetails – they look really good.

-- Don, Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks - http://www.dlwoodworks.com - "If you make something idiot proof, all they do is make a better idiot"

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11659 posts in 2340 days


#7 posted 05-27-2011 01:31 AM

Very nice : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View tallinstaller's profile

tallinstaller

43 posts in 1900 days


#8 posted 05-28-2011 06:39 AM

IT’S PERFECT! I think I’ve looked at every red oak finish out there and this is it. What exactly was your finishing schedule??? I have a project I’ve been killing myself trying to decide on a finish for and this is exactly what I need. How high the sanding? What color dye? What ratio of dye to solvent? Water or Alcohol? Just plain jane BLO from a can? What kind of wax and what did you buff with?

-- Jason

View Mauricio's profile

Mauricio

6818 posts in 1804 days


#9 posted 05-28-2011 04:50 PM

Hey Tall,

I’m glad to help because I know I struggled with the finish too. I basically used the process from a fine woodworking article about a simple Oil and Wax finish. http://www.finewoodworking.com/Materials/MaterialsPDF.aspx?id=24117
the only difference is tha I dyed it first.

1. I hand planed and or scraped all the surfaces. I hate sanding, only sanded the edges and end grain with 220.
2. Wet the surface with distilled water to raise the grain and then lightly sand down the raised grain with 400.
3. Whipe the whole thing down with a gray abrasive pad. The Transtint dye is Dark Mission Brown dissolved in distilled water. I think the instructions say that one little bottle makes 2 quarts of stain so i used half of the bottle in one quart. Play with it till you get the color you want. Wipe that on with a rag and let it dry.
4. Flood the surface with regular old BLO from a can (got it at Home Depot). let it soak in for about an hour then whipe off the excess. Let it dry for 2 days then repeat. Wait two more days and rub down with a white abrasive pad.
5. Wax, Minwax Dark wax, nothing fancy, apply it with a rag, rub it off with a clean rag. voila!

Not to complicated. I’ve spilled wine on it and it was ok. But like I said, hand sanitizer left a light spot where it leached out the dye. If you want something more durable look at the step stool I did. I used Transtint Antiqe Maple and then used Minwax Wipe on Poly buecause I knew that the kids would spill toothpast on it.

Post some pics of your finished project.

Mauricio

-- Mauricio - Woodstock, GA - "Confusion is the Womb of Learning, with utter conviction being it's Tomb" Prof. T.O. Nitsch

View tallinstaller's profile

tallinstaller

43 posts in 1900 days


#10 posted 05-30-2011 09:42 PM

Will do, sir.

-- Jason

View tallinstaller's profile

tallinstaller

43 posts in 1900 days


#11 posted 06-06-2011 08:27 AM

Did you have a problem with the deep pores in the grain not taking the dye? I am having this issue. I guess the BLO will warm up the wood some and then does the dark wax fill those light holes?

-- Jason

View Mauricio's profile

Mauricio

6818 posts in 1804 days


#12 posted 06-06-2011 03:56 PM

I’ve seen that happen when using like your standard Minwax stain from Lowes. Aniline dye is supposed to color them too.

I think your right, the BLO will soften that some and then after the dark wax it shouldn’t be an issue. The dark wax doesn’t really fill the pours much unless you lay it on very thick but it will get in there and darken everything.
poors much unless you lay it on very thick but it will get in there and darken everything.

-- Mauricio - Woodstock, GA - "Confusion is the Womb of Learning, with utter conviction being it's Tomb" Prof. T.O. Nitsch

View Mauricio's profile

Mauricio

6818 posts in 1804 days


#13 posted 06-08-2011 02:42 PM

Here is what mine looks like up close.

-- Mauricio - Woodstock, GA - "Confusion is the Womb of Learning, with utter conviction being it's Tomb" Prof. T.O. Nitsch

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