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I’ve done some multi-axis spindles, but this is my first try at a bowl.
I need a better way to finish off the bottom. All suggestions welcome.
Cherry. Watco Danish oil finish.3 and 3/4” x 2 .
-- in the confusion, I mighta grabbed the gold ...
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#1 posted 02-25-2011 11:44 PM
very nice … stands out from all the rest as unique
-- keeping myself entertained ... Humor and fun lubricate the brain
17101 posts in 1749 days
#2 posted 02-25-2011 11:49 PM
neat project. how bout a 3-sided, profiled base to set the bowl on? just the 1st thing that popped into the space between me ears :)
-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net
35 posts in 1775 days
#3 posted 02-25-2011 11:50 PM
Nice Hairy, I’m going to have to do that someday. It looks like fun.Do you have a vacuume chuck setup that you could use to reverse the bowl, then smooth the bottom and add a small “foot”?
-- Happily turning on my Robust S16LB "There is no failure except in no longer trying. "
#4 posted 02-26-2011 12:06 AM
I don’t have a vacuum chuck.
Now that I think about it, I should have used the old tape chuck.
4542 posts in 1981 days
#5 posted 02-26-2011 12:34 AM
I don’t turn so no suggestions I’m afraid, hairy. I do however appreciate the effort involved in producing this exquisite little bowl and its intrinsic beauty.
-- Martyn -- Boxologist, Pattern Juggler and Candyman of the visually challenging. http://www.theartofboxes.com
1137 posts in 2388 days
#6 posted 02-26-2011 03:13 AM
I don’t have a problem with leaving the recess in the bottom of my bowls but I do decorate them with beading. Leaving just enough open space around the outside of the recess for the chuck jaws to fit in.I usually turn the bottom first doing all the sanding I will need and making the recess for the chuck with the decorative beads. Then reversing the mount I turn the inside and if necessary any touch up on the outside. Some people prefer to use a dado or spigot on the bottom for the chuck mounting which they cut and sand off when done. One of the things I like about leaving the recess is that at a later date when the bowl needs refinishing I can put it back on the lathe (if it hasn’t go to far out of round).
In either case a technique I like for the first mounting the blank is to use my router with a 8 degree dovetail bit, a template guide, and a circle template of the appropriate size for my chuck jaws. I make my own templates with a circle cutter on my drill press. The template is long enough so it spans the blank with enough room to clamp it over the top of the blank onto my work bench; so 3/4” plywood makes the best non flexing template material.
Clamping the template over the blank and routing a shallow recess in the blank with this set up saves time compared to using a face plate or screw in mount and allows me to remove and return the blank to the lathe at any point in the process without a problem. Also the surface of the blank does not have to be perfectly flat and/or smooth before mounting. One template can have several different size holes for different chuck sizes.
Before I got a chuck I was screwing a circular waste piece of 3/4 inch wood to a face plate. Then apply glue on the surface of the wood, a sheet of brown paper bag paper (or newspaper), more glue on the top side of the paper, and then the blank. Clamp them together until the glue is cured. Mount and turn the pice and when finished use a chisel to separate the finished turning from the waste wood. Done carefully the layer of paper separates with out damaging the turning and all you have to do is sand off what is still stuck to the bottom of the turned piece. I still use that technique for some things like a large wood ring I made for a clock bezel.
There also a number of chuck adapters (Cole Jaw) for clamping the bowl around it’s rim upside down so you can finish off the bottom. They run about $100 plus for most chucks. Might not work as well on a triangular shape.
-- Les B, Oregon
#7 posted 02-26-2011 03:45 AM
Les, I started this on a woodworm screw in a chuck. I drilled a hole with a forstner on the other face, to fit smooth spigot jaws.I went back and forth between the 2 mounts several times, before and after the off center turning.
I wish Oneway made a face plate ring.
I have glued a waste block onto the workpiece. It can be turned off, or left on.
3256 posts in 1768 days
#8 posted 02-26-2011 04:57 AM
-- Pete G: If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got
#9 posted 02-26-2011 08:57 PM
Hi Harry,If you use the worm screw to mount the blank on the surface that is to become the inside of the bowl and turn the recess on the bottom instead of using the Forstner bit you will avoid the indent the point of the forstner bit makes in the center which will allow you to cut a thinner bottom when you hollow out the inside. Here is a sample of one of my recesses. It doesn’t show the best in this small picture.http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu338/LGeoB/th_DSCN0465.jpg
#10 posted 02-26-2011 10:33 PM
Thanks Les! That’s how I did it. I just didn’t come up with a way to clean up the bottom. A little more thought and I would have.
937 posts in 2038 days
#11 posted 05-06-2011 10:37 AM
Hi Hairy, this is awesome, a blog on how to do it would be nice.
Thanks for sharing Hairy.
-- When you know better you do better.
#12 posted 05-06-2011 01:50 PM
Thanks! When I attempt another, I’ll attempt a blog at the same time.
Here's the method I used.
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