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Zero Clearance Insert for Grizzly G0715P

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Project by DaveTPilot posted 1280 days ago 4062 views 4 times favorited 15 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I was in serious need of a zero clearance insert for my new Grizzly G0715P. I ordered one from Grizzly but they were back ordered by several months? So I had to make one.

The stock insert is only 1/8” thick so plywood or mdf alone was out of the question. I had some 3/8” ABS plastic that I could rabbet down to 1/8” but that would be too flimsy as well. I decided to use a combination of the plastic and 1/2” mdf. So, I cut them a little over-sized and glued them together with Gorilla Poly glue.

I drilled a hole in each end of a piece of 12” scrap. One hole held a Shapie and the other, a nail. On the table top I taped a piece of paper and traced the shape of the table saw inlet by using the nail as a guide. I used the paper template to make a plywood template on the band saw and cleaned it up with the spindle sander until it fit with good clearance. You don’t want that to fit too tightly.

I attached the template to the plastic side of the insert blank with double-sided tape. This served as my guide template for my Daisy Pin Router. Making multiple passes, I continued to raise the router bit until it started cutting into the underside of the plastic. I cut the plastic until approximately 1/8” was left.

I replaced the plywood template with the stock insert and trimmed it to a perfect fit. I love that Daisy Pin Router! I also used it to raise the bit up to make all the holes, except for the leveler holes. I drilled those on the drill press.

Cutting the kerf was a little tricky because the blade is in the way if you try to install the insert. I had to elevate the shop made insert above the installed stock insert with some 2×2’s. I used the fence to hold the alignment on the right side of the blade and a 2×4 clamped in place and pressed against the left side. Another 2×4 pressed on the top with one hand left the other hand to raise the blade slowly. You just need to cut enough of a kerf to install the insert then you can raise it all the way up using the fence to hold it in place. I then needed to flip the insert over so I could cut the kerf long enough to use the splitter. (I think I need to do a video for this) :)

Some white primer and red Krylon Fusion plastics paint finished it up nicely. (You don’t need the primer but the red doesn’t come out as bright painting directly on the black plastic.)

I also made a zero clearance insert for my dado set up for 1/2” plywood.

PS I just received an email today from Grizzly that the insert has been shipped…it took three months.

-- How valuable is time to a person who spends his disparaging the beliefs of others? --David Berthelette www.pilotwoodworks.com





15 comments so far

View Roger's profile

Roger

14311 posts in 1428 days


#1 posted 1280 days ago

nuttin better than zeee-ro clearence… I think you are better off to make your own anyway. They want too much $$ for those things. nice job

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net

View TheDane's profile (online now)

TheDane

3715 posts in 2287 days


#2 posted 1280 days ago

Excellent idea, Dave … Thanks for posting!

I have a Jet JWTS10 that has a stock plate with a similar thickness. There are some ZCI blanks available for it ( http://www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_products.htm ), but they are UHMW (or some similar material), and aren’t rigid enough.

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View DaveTPilot's profile

DaveTPilot

270 posts in 1922 days


#3 posted 1280 days ago

I have a local plastics supplier here in my town. A few years ago I had bought a 4×8 sheet of 3/8” ABS for a project that never materialized. I have no regrets, however, because I find uses for it all the time. Having said that, I am anxious to see if they have any phenolic available. That is the perfect material for these inserts.

-- How valuable is time to a person who spends his disparaging the beliefs of others? --David Berthelette www.pilotwoodworks.com

View Routerisstillmyname's profile

Routerisstillmyname

697 posts in 2133 days


#4 posted 1280 days ago

looking good. but I didn’t have any luck with the paint. it comes off and gets on the boards.

-- Router รจ ancora il mio nome.

View DaveTPilot's profile

DaveTPilot

270 posts in 1922 days


#5 posted 1280 days ago

I was wondering if that would happen. I’m thinking of shooting a couple of layers of clear coat to see how that holds up.

-- How valuable is time to a person who spends his disparaging the beliefs of others? --David Berthelette www.pilotwoodworks.com

View TheDane's profile (online now)

TheDane

3715 posts in 2287 days


#6 posted 1280 days ago

I use one of the cutters from my 8” stacked dado set to start the kerf in the ZCI’s I bought from Peachtree.

As you pointed out, you don’t need to go up very far into the blank, just far enough to get you regular 10” blade installed and finish the cut.

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View moonls's profile

moonls

407 posts in 1610 days


#7 posted 1280 days ago

I got the note from Grizzly that the ZCI’s are back ordered so I’m going to give your idea a try. Thanks for the tip!

-- Lorna, Cape Cod

View DaveTPilot's profile

DaveTPilot

270 posts in 1922 days


#8 posted 1280 days ago

I ordered mine in November and it is supposed to be here Friday. I’m interested to see how well it works.

-- How valuable is time to a person who spends his disparaging the beliefs of others? --David Berthelette www.pilotwoodworks.com

View Spoontaneous's profile

Spoontaneous

1304 posts in 1954 days


#9 posted 1280 days ago

I need to figure out something like this for my new Grizzly Bandsaw (G055). Everytime I run a smallish piece of wood through, it catches on the backside of the inset (or rather the lip that surrounds it) and I have to either lift up on the back of the wood or give it a quick ‘shove’. If it wasn’t for the occasional need to tilt the table, I’d just put a sheet of acrylic over the table since I don’t have cause to use the miter. Yours is a clever fix.

-- I just got done cutting three boards and all four of them were too short. (true story)

View DaveTPilot's profile

DaveTPilot

270 posts in 1922 days


#10 posted 1279 days ago

@ Spoontaneous
I found that a hardboard cover works real well for a zero clearance band saw top. It’s cheap, replaceable and can be easily removed for table tilting.

-- How valuable is time to a person who spends his disparaging the beliefs of others? --David Berthelette www.pilotwoodworks.com

View Spoontaneous's profile

Spoontaneous

1304 posts in 1954 days


#11 posted 1279 days ago

Thanks David ~ Do you attach the hardboard with double tape or just clamp it…. or??

-- I just got done cutting three boards and all four of them were too short. (true story)

View DaveTPilot's profile

DaveTPilot

270 posts in 1922 days


#12 posted 1279 days ago

You can use double-sided tape but then you have a sticky mess to clean off your band saw table. I screw a piece of wood about the width of the table’s thickness to the front of the hardboard and clamp it to the table.

-- How valuable is time to a person who spends his disparaging the beliefs of others? --David Berthelette www.pilotwoodworks.com

View sbandyk's profile

sbandyk

6 posts in 1422 days


#13 posted 1278 days ago

I’ve got quite a bit of plexi scrap because they’re tearing down a research building where I work. Has anyone ever tried to use plexi or polycarbonate for an insert?
I suspect the drag wouldn’t be bad, particularly if I went over the top with some 400 grit.. but it would be cool to see into the saw body.

My only concern would be cracking/shattering. Some of it’s old.

I’ve got a variety of sizes so I’m not sure yet whether I’d need to install set-screws to deal with the height/thickness. I don’t suspect that’d be a big deal though.. I just need to be careful tapping out the holes.

View DaveTPilot's profile

DaveTPilot

270 posts in 1922 days


#14 posted 1278 days ago

@ sbandyk
If you used a substrate of mdf or plywood under the plexi, that might work well. How thick is it? If it’s too flexible it will cause problems.

UPDATE:
I applied 2 coats of General Finishes PolyAcrylic. That is really weird stuff. It goes on milky white and thick but levels and clears to a hard glossy finish. That should give the paint the protection it needs.

-- How valuable is time to a person who spends his disparaging the beliefs of others? --David Berthelette www.pilotwoodworks.com

View USCJeff's profile

USCJeff

1044 posts in 2692 days


#15 posted 1106 days ago

That’s a long back order. Given the relative ease of making one, I’d think a long back order would kill the product. Glad I hadn’t had that issue with them. Happy with the couple transactions I’ve had with them. Wishing I had some plastic on hand.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

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