| Project by steliart | posted 840 days ago | 3895 views | 30 times favorited | 11 comments |  |
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My first miter sled was build mostly as a test. It was inspired by David Marks aluminum miter sled.
It’s nothing fancy, has a 9mm (11/32) plywood base, 3/4 marine plywood fences, T-track on each fence for blog stops (for t-track I use aluminum curtain tracks), 2 de-sta-co hold down clamps sitting on two blocks, a center from Swedish pine wood as a blade guard and another piece of the same pine to the other end. The sled is running on two hardwood track bar pieces of oak.
The base is a bit narrow, as that was the left over ply I had at the moment and because I consider it as a test sled I didn’t mind, but it turned out to be so good an accurate that I’m still using it. If I ever need a bigger one I can always build another.
Thanks for visiting
Steli
-- I am not so rich to buy cheap tools.
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11 comments so far
bvdon
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454 posts in 1188 days
#1 posted 840 days ago
Nice…. and you use aluminum curtain tracks… what? You didn’t want to blow some cash on the blue t-tracks that cost a fortune?
-- http://woodwork.me
steliart
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1286 posts in 861 days
#2 posted 840 days ago
They work perfect, check the link, if you can find those they are very inexpensive and hold very strong. Actually the main reason I had to look for alternative tracks is that they don’t have any t-tracks here so I had to import them and it cost double the $ price number but in euros.
-- I am not so rich to buy cheap tools.
Splinterman
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23060 posts in 1534 days
#3 posted 840 days ago
Nice construction…good job.
swirt
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1864 posts in 1145 days
#4 posted 840 days ago
Very clever. How difficult was it to get both wings square and centered? (any tips for doing it?)
I realize that since you are essentially kerfing the joint, it is not absolutely necessary for the wings to be perfectly centered with the angle.
-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com
steliart
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1286 posts in 861 days
#5 posted 839 days ago
swirt
Centering the wings was strait forward. After deciding how deep I wanted them to be onto the base, I measured and marked equal distances to the left and right side edges of the base, and using a true big metal L square I position its tip to the center line of the base and its edges to my measuring marks on the sides. I used double face tape to hold the L square in position and then attached the mitered wings (fences).
-- I am not so rich to buy cheap tools.
bill merritt
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199 posts in 1462 days
#6 posted 839 days ago
I like this, and would also like the answer to the question above. Good job.
-- Bill Merritt -Augusta Ga. woodworker
bigike
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4023 posts in 1461 days
#7 posted 839 days ago
cool sled
-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com
swirt
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1864 posts in 1145 days
#8 posted 839 days ago
Thanks for the explanation Steli. Clever and makes perfect sense.
-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com
degoose
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6599 posts in 1527 days
#9 posted 833 days ago
Simple and effective…
-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ larrysworkshop.wordpress.com For lovers of all things timber...
andysden
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45 posts in 591 days
#10 posted 589 days ago
I build samll wishing wells out of small 3/4” x 1” these have a radius of of 8 to 12 ” . I will make the finished angle 22.5 degrees. filp it over on other bar and cut the proper size by placing a block at prorper length. There are 8 peices to complete the ring and usually 5 to 8 rings each placed half way to make the walll . At present I am using amitre saw and it is hard to hold the small pieces . I should be faster not to mention
safer Andysden
Jim Jakosh
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7334 posts in 1278 days
#11 posted 564 days ago
I like it. It has all the things I have been thinking of incorporating in such a sled! Great job. It will be a joy to use!!
-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!!
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