|Project by Keith Fenton||posted 02-03-2011 10:55 PM||1912 views||3 times favorited||7 comments|
A while back I was asked to do a blog on segmentation to explain how it’s done. I know it took me awhile but here it is finally :)
When doing a project like this, once the pattern is printed and spray glued to the wood, I start out by cutting out all the pieces on the scroll saw and sticking them onto double sided carpet tape to keep organized as I go along.
I cut out veneer backers for as many pieces as I can which helps a lot with assembly and final placement. To cut the veneer on the scroll saw, I sandwich it between thin scrap and glue the pattern to the top layer. (even cardboard could be used in a pinch).
Later on after shaping and staining, the pieces will be glued to the backers as shown here:
Once the cutting is all done, I start shaping with a Dremel and the following bits:
When I put together pattern packets, I include many pictures of all the pieces taken at angles as to show the shaping that I did and help the customer as much as possible to be able to reproduce what I did.
I use lots of double sided tape as I am shaping because I keep taking pieces off, shaping them and re-placing them on the tape which eventually gets sawdust on it and loses it’s stickiness. I try to use wood that is thick enough so that I can do a lot of shaping. On most of my projects I use 3/8” to 1/2” maple or birch for this since it is cheap and also tight-grained so small pieces don’t break. And since these pieces are small, I don’t find it particularly hard to shape even though the maple is quite hard.
The letters were sanded down slightly to give the snow a raised appearance . This was done with a sheet of coarse paper on a flat surface because I didn’t have a belt sander at the time.
After shaping with coarse sanding drums or carving bits (The carbide Kutzall carving bit shown is a little too aggressive if the piece is so small that I can’t hold it firmly. I actually use the sanding drum more than the Kutzall) I use finer sanding drums, followed by the grinding bit and the diamond bit to remove the scratches. I follow this with hand sanding with 150 to 220 grit sandpaper to prep for staining.
Then I stain everything wiping off the stain on each piece as I go along except with the black which I find looks best with two solid coats providing full coverage. Once the stain is dry I glue the pieces that have veneer backers to their respective backers.
In this project I thought it best to varnish all the overlay pieces at this point so I could better get into all the crevasses. I used a matte or satin spray varnish from either Varathane or DecoArt Americana.
The plaque itself is maple and was finished with many coats of mineral oil and sealed with shellac.
When everything is varnished and dry, I dry place it all except the letters onto the plaque and proceed to glue the pieces one at a time beginning with the long piece of snow that the letters go on since that seemed like the best place to start.
This is really an easier form of carving since all your pieces are separate which preserves your lines. It’s also much easier to prepare and cut than intarsia. I really think this is something that just about anybody can learn to do in a very short period of time.
-- Scroll saw patterns @ http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com