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Epoxy table tops

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Project by grosa posted 1174 days ago 3441 views 10 times favorited 20 comments Add to Favorites Watch

These table tops are made from two layer of 3/4”plywood with a vinyl wallpaper in the field and a 1” x 1 1/2” Maple edge. A two part epoxy was pored and spread on the top and edges. This project was for a customer at Prestige Casework.

-- Have a great day.





20 comments so far

View degoose's profile

degoose

6882 posts in 1854 days


#1 posted 1174 days ago

Fabulous

-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ lazylarrywoodworks.com.au For lovers of all things timber...

View Jeff's profile

Jeff

114 posts in 1413 days


#2 posted 1174 days ago

Looks very nice! A couple of questions for you:

Was it a really slow set epoxy that had time to level itself after you spread it with your hands?

and….

The epoxies I have used are really noxious, did you have some non-offensive product that you didn’t need a respirator?

I like the wet look, and this would be great for a high use table for sure.

-- Jeff

View grosa's profile

grosa

873 posts in 1328 days


#3 posted 1174 days ago

Thank you degoose
Jeff yes, yes, The way it looks wet is the way it looks dry. It takes 24 hrs to harden.

-- Have a great day.

View Dan Hux's profile

Dan Hux

561 posts in 1873 days


#4 posted 1174 days ago

nice table tops,,look great

-- Dan Hux,,,,Raleigh, NC http://whitdaniel.com

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

4648 posts in 1297 days


#5 posted 1174 days ago

Hey man, Nice Finish. You really gotta love the many things epoxy is good at. I used to use so much of it that I had a friend who used to kid me that I had a glass of it every morning when I got up. Those table tops will last forever.
Just a question. Are they for indoors or if not did you add mica powder or some UV protection?

Nice work.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View grosa's profile

grosa

873 posts in 1328 days


#6 posted 1174 days ago

shipwright, they are for indoor use. Thanks.

-- Have a great day.

View Ken90712's profile

Ken90712

14500 posts in 1688 days


#7 posted 1174 days ago

Great work, I was wondering what type of Epoxy you used? After you spread it out with your hands is it self leveling? What did you do about the bottom and edges as well? Any info you could tell me would be a great help in me understanding this process for future use.

Thx in advance, Ken

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View xml's profile

xml

10 posts in 2056 days


#8 posted 1174 days ago

Beautiful work! What was the process for rubbing these out? Oh and which type of epoxy would you recommend for indoor use?

Thanks,
Scott

View Oldwest's profile

Oldwest

68 posts in 1303 days


#9 posted 1174 days ago

Great Job, love the work. Can you tell us the MFG of the epoxy and the part number, I would like to try this myself.

Thanks, Mark

-- Anyone who isn’t totally confused just doesn’t understand the situation.

View grosa's profile

grosa

873 posts in 1328 days


#10 posted 1173 days ago

The name of the epoxy is called “WHITE SIDE” I will get the web sight and post it. It is a 2 part mix. When you buy the gallon set ( $80 ) you get a gallon of epoxy and a gallon of hardener. Ideal working temp. is 70 to 77. There is very little oder you don’t need a respirator. It is self leveling. It is a 1 to 1 mix. When mixing, you need to do everything in slow motion so you do not get bubbles in the mix. Don’t pour the material directly into the bucket, you will get bubbles that way. use the side of the bucket as a ramp. Put your mixing paddle in slowly and mix at a low speed, make sure your paddle stays under the mix so it don’t grab any air and cause bubbles. Big bubbles you can get out at the end, It’s the very small ones that will mess you up. After spreading the top and edges slowly use a propane torch to get all the bubbles out. Keep the torch about 12” away and move side to side quickly as if you were spraying. The heat thins the material allowing the bubbles to rise and pop. when the material gets tacky use a tong depressor and scrap the drips off the bottom of the table. If you wait to long you will have to wait till it drys and sand them off. I hope this helps. It is allot easier than it sounds. I have been using this epoxy for 10 yrs. it works great. Good luck.

-- Have a great day.

View jsegs's profile

jsegs

21 posts in 1290 days


#11 posted 1173 days ago

I’ve always been interested in using epoxy as a finishing product. I have only ever used it as an adhesive or to “patch” small holes (as a filler).

Do you think this same product would work as a finish on say a clock or something decorative?

Thanks in advance and the tables look great btw.

View Vince's profile

Vince

924 posts in 1928 days


#12 posted 1173 days ago

Good info thanks and great looking tables.

-- Vince

View grosa's profile

grosa

873 posts in 1328 days


#13 posted 1173 days ago

Jsegs, I don’t think epoxy adhesive is as clear as epoxy resin. I might be wrong.

-- Have a great day.

View WoodJitsu's profile

WoodJitsu

42 posts in 1292 days


#14 posted 1173 days ago

Thanks for posting this, I’ve always been curious about epoxy tabletop finishes

-- Family, Friends, Jiu Jitsu, Woodworking. Order varies daily!

View Ken90712's profile

Ken90712

14500 posts in 1688 days


#15 posted 1173 days ago

Great Answer, Thank-you. Your tips will make it so much easier when I try this. Information like this really helps expanding our capabilities as woodworkers. Do they have one that would work for an outside tabletop under a patio? It would still get sun so I would need to protect it.

Thx agian great job!

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

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