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Another miter joint sled

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Project by FreddyS posted 01-24-2011 06:54 PM 3958 views 26 times favorited 16 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Now, a miter joint sled (or bevel sled?) for the table saw so I can mount it on the superSled and forget about tilting the blade.

All made from plywood, 1/2” for the base, 3/4” for the rest.

I made my own version, based on a drawing found on the internet and on Mark Whitsitt sled

To avoid losing too much blade depth I went with 45 angle cuts on both bevel boards so they sit flush to the 1/2” base.

The bevel boards were fixed at 90 with the help of a couple of really handy clamp-it squares from rockler, then just glued the support sides, went this way to keep enough free space on the superSled.

I placed the base on the superSled, then added the bevel boards carefully adjusting everything in proper position before gluing the support blocks, then just did the cut all along the base, you can see I added an extra block for support on front of the base, it turns out it wasn’t needed at all as the jig ended up being really sturdy but I kept it just in case :)

To be sure the jig does not move at all I added a couple of t-bolts and knobs in the front of the base to attach it to the superSled thru the sled slots and use the superSled hold downs to fasten the back of the base.

Also added a couple of matching permanent ink marks on the front of the base and on the superSled for easy positioning later.

In the last photo you can see how accurate it is, finally perfect miter joints for me :)

Thanks for watching, and feel free to use it as inspiration!

Btw. sounds like dusty56 is right about it being a miter joint sled, otherwise it would only allow to bevel edges on really tiny boards hehee, just updated the title and info to reflect this.

-- Learning one thing at a time





16 comments so far

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11685 posts in 2439 days


#1 posted 01-24-2011 07:58 PM

Is this a Bevel sled or a Miter sled ?
I’m still learning here , but I was told that a bevel runs along the length of a piece , such as a picture frame or table top, ie: Beveled Edge…. Your last picture shows a perfect miter joint as I know it. : )
Could just be local terminology such as Tiger Maple / Curly Maple.
Nice sled though and apparently very accurate : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View FreddyS's profile

FreddyS

200 posts in 1525 days


#2 posted 01-24-2011 08:35 PM

Oh, I guess you are right dusty56, I get confused with terminology often :D is it possible to edit the title? yes it is hehee

-- Learning one thing at a time

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11685 posts in 2439 days


#3 posted 01-24-2011 09:02 PM

I don’t know if I am right or not , but I’m sure someone might come along and correct me with their viewpoint.
LOL…Have a great day !!

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View richgreer's profile

richgreer

4525 posts in 1826 days


#4 posted 01-24-2011 09:31 PM

This is a neat idea and very well done.

I wonder if one could make the switch the miter bar to the other direction and use the same jig for a cutting splines.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View FreddyS's profile

FreddyS

200 posts in 1525 days


#5 posted 01-24-2011 09:47 PM

Hi richgreer, I thought about that too but as I had already made my spline jig, didn’t tried.

I think as long as you have the base true square on the proper sides to align it properly against the back fence on the superSled it should be easy to use one jig for both tasks.

Of course you would have to do it as I did, attaching the jig into a sled to avoid fighting with runners placement :)

-- Learning one thing at a time

View mafe's profile

mafe

9687 posts in 1840 days


#6 posted 01-24-2011 10:02 PM

Rellay nice again, my dear Freddy.
Lovely detail with the T-tracks.
And to be able to use it on the sled is really cool.
Best thought,
Mads

-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

View okwoodshop's profile

okwoodshop

444 posts in 1926 days


#7 posted 01-24-2011 10:43 PM

I understand how this would be very accurate BUT… How do you get your final length???

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1866 days


#8 posted 01-24-2011 11:04 PM

always nice with homemade tools speciel if they can make another tool to do more :-)

thankĀ“s for sharing
Dennis

View FreddyS's profile

FreddyS

200 posts in 1525 days


#9 posted 01-25-2011 12:41 AM

okwoodshop: good question… well, I haven’t tried it in full to verify yet, but I’ll try to answer:

You have to cut your boards a little bit longer than your final length to compensate for the blade kerf, Mark Whitsitt says about 3/16” extra in his post, a couple of cuts should give you the proper number.

Or if you don’t mind a little deviation in your work dimensions just cut your pieces to the “wanted” length, after all the cuts every piece should end with the same variation in length and fitting nicely with each other.

Dennis: hopefully I’m close to get out of the “making tools to make more tools” stage… yeah right :)

Tenoning Jig next!

-- Learning one thing at a time

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1866 days


#10 posted 01-25-2011 01:06 AM

if you want tomake a brainkiller and time consuming tenonjiig
then go to Mathias Wandells site and have a look

http://woodgears.ca/

even the site it self can take hours to drool over ….LOL

take care
Dennis

View bigike's profile

bigike

4035 posts in 2040 days


#11 posted 01-25-2011 01:41 AM

nice work, very accurate.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

View SqareD's profile

SqareD

22 posts in 1432 days


#12 posted 01-25-2011 03:15 AM

First of all, nicely done. So if I understand correctly, you are using this to cut mitered corners, illustrated by your example in the final picture. Obviously this eliminated the need to adjust the saw blade to a 45 and also allows for more accurate cuts. Similarly to okwoodshop’s question, what would I do if I needed to cut a few inches off to reach my final dimension? For those of us that are quite novice, i.e. ME, it would be great to see photos with stock in place ready to cut. Nice job all around.

View Maveric777's profile

Maveric777

2691 posts in 1828 days


#13 posted 01-25-2011 03:45 AM

I am really interested in this jig. I have yet to find the “Magic Bullet” to make my miter joints. I really like this set up and may try to feed off the concept you have here. My only issue is the loss of stock on the cut. I drive myself crazy trying to match the grain as perfect as I can on corners and wonder how I could use something like this and yet minimize loss stock.

Thanks for sharing… Got the ole grey matter fired up tonight…..lol

-- Dan ~ Texarkana, Tx.

View FreddyS's profile

FreddyS

200 posts in 1525 days


#14 posted 01-25-2011 06:38 AM

Dennis: hehee, i’ve seen Mathias website, no need to go all fancy with the jigs… yet!

SqareD: If I understand your question right, you have to cut your boards to almost final dimension + the kerf from the blade x 2 – novice here too – or… keep reading as it sounds like a better answer

Maverick777: great question and you are right about matching grain, looks really great so you got me thinking for a minute, the answer would be to use some shims on the oposite side you are about to make a cut so the board ends up on the right spot, tighten the hold down, remove the shims and make the cut, there shold be a nice grain match, just remember to use the shims when cutting on the other side too, can’t think of any reason for this to fail ;)

I’ll get to test this the next weekend, and post my results.

-- Learning one thing at a time

View FreddyS's profile

FreddyS

200 posts in 1525 days


#15 posted 01-26-2011 05:44 AM

Update: just went and tested the shim idea, with a 1/8” blade, a 1/16” shim when setting the board for the cut will work fine to make the cuts at the final length and preserve the matching grain ;)

-- Learning one thing at a time

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