|Project by RandyMorter||posted 01-17-2011 08:08 AM||2034 views||3 times favorited||12 comments|
I decided to try out a bandsaw box today (1/16/2011) with the new Grizzly G0555P bandsaw…
I promised I’d make another box for another granddaughter so this will be it!
I did this in about 12 hours, although I worked on another box at the same time, went up and bought more wood, ate, etc. This is my first bandsaw box and I made a couple of goofs but I think it’s still okay.
I watched a video on YouTube that showed how to make them and he said you can’t screw them up. My wife kept reminding me of that but I still found a few ways to screw it up.
I created the main design using Google Sketchup. The size was limited to less than 6 inches tall (I don’t have the riser) and I only had one piece of cedar that was about 7 inches long. So the final drawing dimensions were 6-7/8×4-7/8. I had some scraps around that I could do that size, and for a PROTOTYPE I thought it’d be fine…
In my design the original drawers had too sharp of a radius for the 1/8 inch blade to cut. So, I ended up with the somewhat offset drawers but in the end I think I like it better.
I wanted to try to add a hidden drawer too but tried to figure that out on my own which is what caused a couple of problems. It works out in the end, although the drawer isn’t really hidden. I think I’ve got the cut’s figure out for making a hidden drawer so I’ll try it again as another PROTOTYPE. The main thing is I should have had the entry and exit cuts for the drawer on the INSIDE of the main case.
I used a magnet for the drawer pull on the hidden drawer and put a steel screw in the end of a dowel for a “key”. If I had a drill press (or better skill with the handheld) I’d try to make a little hole for this key to be kept in, accessed from the back of the main drawer.
My wife put the felt liner in for me (she was bored). On this project we put it in before the sides were glued back up on the drawers and it turned out pretty good.
I finished this with Watco Danish Oil, Natural, that I decided to try from Woodcraft. I got a pint of it and a pint of Tung oil but seem to like the Danish better. I wish I’d gotten one with some stain in it too. I am still following up with a couple of coats of spray lacquer. I like this better than the polyurethane.
1. Use as little glue as possible in the glue up. I tried, and used a brush to spread it around, but it both ran (which was really no issue here) and caused what looked like voids in the joints. I did joint and plane the pieces (two pieces of 2×6 and a piece of cedar fencing for the face). The dry fit was fine, it was just after they were glued that it didn’t look tight. My other thought was the new Harbor Freight clamps may not have applied enough pressure. I’ll use bigger clamps next time as well as try to use less glue.
2. Plan ALL of the cuts in advance. Write them down (briefly) if necessary.
3. These projects take a LOT of sanding. I don’t have a spindle or other permanent sander, so I mounted my little Ryobi belt sander upside down in my table vice and was able to accomplish a lot of the sanding with it. I’d still be sanding if I hadn’t done that.
4. Adding metal hardware sure makes the project look better.
5. It’s demanding cutting with the 1/8 inch blade. I need to practice staying on lines.
6. Slow feed rate for this type of project is good. I was tempted to try the slower speed on the saw but it looks like a PITA to switch over.
I’ve started another band saw box and just wanted to post the picture of the glue up of it. I like it much better. Thank you all very much for the generous advice – I used a lot less glue (the little bit of squeeze out in the picture is all that there was), and more and stronger clamps. I didn’t get 8 clamps but I got 6 on it! I also sandwiched the block in between two other pieces just so they could take the damage from the clamps if there is any. One set of clamps doesn’t have the orange protectors. I thought all my clamps did but I guess I’ll have to get some for the pair.
-- Randy Morter, Phoenix, AZ