| Project by bvdon | posted 880 days ago | 3436 views | 14 times favorited | 25 comments | ![]() |
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I just made these two cutting boards on commission (for the curious, $200 for both) for a friend and his mother.
Material: Walnut, Maple, Cherry, Padauk
Dimensions: 15×12 x 1.75, end grain
Project started Monday night… all cuts and first glue-up done. Tues, second cuts, second glue-up. Today, Wed, I did all the finish work—trimed, rounded edges, cut the juice groove and sanded up to 320 and put two thirsty coats of Salad Bowl Finish (cut with Mineral Spirits).
I screwed up on the juice groove on the first board – the bit decided to take a slight detour. Intended to make a 3/8 groove and had to go to 1/2 inch to fix the mistake. Sadly, left a few burn marks in the process! I really need to work on my router table skills. The second juice groove came out near perfect with the 3/8 bit and determination not to make the same mistake twice.
Because there are 9 rows on each board, you may notice that on one of the boards the last step does not alternate on the maple/cherry alternation… no way around it. Didn’t realize until it was too late.
With that project out of the way, I have to finish a much larger project—a Japanese Timber Bench…. pictures to follow.
Fourth photo is a similar style board I did, but didn’t have cherry on hand… the walnut turned out to have wonderful characteristic—check the book matching.
Fifth photo shows an example of how you do the initial rip cut and glue up. After the glue is dry, run it through the planer so it’s flat on both sides. Next step is cross cut, flip the end grain up and alternating the cross cut pieces, flip them left to right.
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25 comments so far
EzJack
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402 posts in 1338 days
#1 posted 879 days ago
Why did you leave the burn marks?
-- Ain't better or worse than any other woodpecker in the woods.
Duster116
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20 posts in 1199 days
#2 posted 879 days ago
These are very nice…well done.
-- Yes dear, I know I already have one...but it's on sale.
blockhead
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1423 posts in 1476 days
#3 posted 879 days ago
Very cool patterns and I love the wood combos. Well done!
-- Brad, Oregon- The things that come to those who wait, may be the things left by those who got there first.
snowdog
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1115 posts in 2150 days
#4 posted 879 days ago
Maybe $200 for one, they are too nice to sell cheap. Merry Christmas
-- "so much to learn and so little time"..
Bob A in NJ
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1095 posts in 2167 days
#5 posted 879 days ago
These are nice, I think $100 sounds about right. I’d make these all day for that. I like the ideas on the wide zags. Thanks for posting. Bob
-- Bob A in NJ
bvdon
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454 posts in 1183 days
#6 posted 879 days ago
Thanks all!
eZ—please share? How do I get rid of the burn marks in the juice groove? I tried sanding, but it would have taken forever. Is there a better way?
-- http://woodwork.me
LesB
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899 posts in 1611 days
#7 posted 879 days ago
Nice pattern. Looks complicated but easy to glue up and it makes use of that end piece with the one side beveled and the other squared. I never know what to do with that “expensive” piece of scrap.
Most burn marks can be avoided by making two or more progressively deeper cuts with a final clean up cut. Some wood like Cherry will burn just looking at it to hard (-;
Another thing I like to do is route come finger grooves in the ends so it is easier to pick up.
Les
-- Les B, Oregon
Diggerjacks
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1310 posts in 1307 days
#8 posted 879 days ago
Very nice and original pattern
A very good work
Congratulations
-- Diggerjack-France ---The only limit is the limit of the mind and the mind have no limit
degoose
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6590 posts in 1522 days
#9 posted 879 days ago
They are a “step” up from some boards I have made.
-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ larrysworkshop.wordpress.com For lovers of all things timber...
lanwater
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2418 posts in 1102 days
#10 posted 879 days ago
Those are some of the nicest I have seen.
Great wood combo.
newTim
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528 posts in 1774 days
#11 posted 879 days ago
Re the burn marks. I can see how you cut them using a guide on the router? I did the same thing and got burn marks that were the devil to remove. And yes I posted pictures. And yes people asked me why I didn’t remove them. :) Now I make a template and use a guide bushing making the last pass very light. It leaves a very smooth, burn free, channel.
I know that doesn’t help with your question on how to remove them. There’s no room in the corners to sand. You might try shaving them out with a half round chisel. I usually think of this kind of thing as penance which I do a lot of.
The boards look great and I wouldn’t kick them out of the kitchen.
-- tim hill www.newcalshop.com
bvdon
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454 posts in 1183 days
#12 posted 879 days ago
I routed the grooves about three times… first pass was really bad and had to go to a larger bit to cover the mistake. Then burned on the second pass and went a little deeper on the third… and burned again! I wasn’t confident and was letting the bit stay too long at the ends.
I finally got it right on the second board on a router table with a stop at the end. An even better way is to have stop blocks at both ends of the fence, equidistant from the center of the bit. That should be fool proof… will try it out next time.
-- http://woodwork.me
dustbunny
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1148 posts in 1463 days
#13 posted 878 days ago
My cabinet maker friend shared with me how to remove the burn marks from the router.
If you have a chuck with a handle, chuck up the router bit you used to cut the groove.
Simply use the bit as a scraper were you have burn marks.
Works like a champ !
Lisa
-- Imagination rules the world. ~ Napoleon Bonaparte ~ http://quiltedwood.com
EzJack
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402 posts in 1338 days
#14 posted 878 days ago
Do like the dustbunny said. It works fine for the light toast but on the real burners use a diamond ball. Just take it EZ and don’t dig deep. Keep the ball moving and you will get a feel for it. They don’t dig fast. After you get the burn out feather it all in. Also feather out any over cuts you have when they are not to bad. I use the cordless pistol grip Dremel Styllis to spin mine. Has a nice feel.
I worked to get a feel for the router table and just use lines on the fence for stops. Never burn anymore or over cut. Just a little toast now and then that can be scraped. I wouldn’t use the bit for a scraper in your situation for it is EZ enough to make one. Use the bunny solution for a more complex cut. Besides you might of burnt to deep for a scraper.
-- Ain't better or worse than any other woodpecker in the woods.
EzJack
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402 posts in 1338 days
#15 posted 878 days ago
Man, a lot of feels in that last post.
You gotta be the router, feel the router, one with the router.
Guides, Guides, We don’t need no stinking guides.
-- Ain't better or worse than any other woodpecker in the woods.
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