|Project by Jonathan||posted 11-30-2010 09:42 PM||4180 views||1 time favorited||19 comments|
This is an end-grain cutting board, made as a Christmas gift for my mother-in-law. The last time she was here visiting, I brought my not-yet-completed first end grain cutting board http://lumberjocks.com/projects/32914 up from the shop to show her. She really liked it and threw out a hint that it would be a wonderful Christmas present. She said that it might be nice to have one a bit smaller and lighter than my original. So, this one weighs less than half of my first one, and is smaller in both width and length.
This is the first Christmas gift I have completed. There will be more to come.
Wood used: 4/4-curly maple, 4/4-pink lyptus, 8/4-pink lyptus, 8/4-hard maple
Board Dimensions: 10-15-/16” deep X 13-1/4” wide X 15/16” thick
Handle Recesses: 1/2” tall X 7/8” inset
Total Height: 1-7/32”, including feet
Feet: 9/32” tall, by 1” wide, stainless steel screws used in conjunction with feet from Ace Hardware, item # 5425277. They work fairly well, although they are not skid-proof. If you push on the side of the board, it will slide on the counter, but they do offer enough resistance to keep the board from moving while applying downward pressure, as is the case with most knife work.
Weight: 3-pounds, 4-ounces
Glue used: Titebond III
Finish Applied: Mineral Oil… and lots of it. I put 10-thick coats of mineral oil on this over the course of about a week’s time. It is certainly saturated! I also applied George’s Clubhouse Wax as a topcoat.
I used a roundover bit in the router on the top edge, and a cove bit to make the recessed handles, then handsanded all other edges. This is sanded up through 220-grit.
I made the handles this way after seeing another cutting board in a shop with a similar recessed handle design. Unfortunately, I broke my Bosch router edge guide when making this board… I set it on the edge of the table and apparently didn’t have the weight facing the right direction and it fell onto the concrete and broke in half. I now only have one side to the edge guide. I might try and glue it back together and if that doesn’t work, I’ll have to buy a new one.
I like these rubber feet used in this way, but they are not tall enough to really be able to slide your fingers under the board if you don’t have some sort of handle on the side. I will always use some sort of feet on this style of board, not just to elevate it for ease of picking the board up, but more importantly, so that air can circulate while the board is drying.
I thought the curly maple would have more of an impact on the border than it did. Maybe on a thicker board, it would’ve worked better? I used 8/4 hard maple and 8/4 pink lyptus in the center of the board to try and minimize glue lines. As you can see from the photos, the two different maples turned out vastly different in color once oiled, as well as the lyptus being two different tones. I used the pink lyptus at my wife’s request.
-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."