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Tiny project I know hehee, just to show how I added a zero clearance insert into my cheap ryobi table saw.
The insert back side was routed out to make it fit ok, works nice!
-- Learning one thing at a time
Nov 22, 2010
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206 posts in 1770 days
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#1 posted 11-22-2010 08:25 PM
Excellent project. I’ve been thinking of how to make a zero clearance insert for this saw for some time. I have the same saw as you except mine has a stamped aluminum top.
-- - Eric Indianapolis, IN
#2 posted 11-22-2010 08:50 PM
I thought to try and it came out nice, use thicker/good grade ply or hardwood though.
I went with 1/2” ply and there’s not much wood left on the borders, and you can see on the back side pic how the saw took out some chunks.
10635 posts in 3243 days
#3 posted 11-23-2010 12:47 AM
GREAT IDEA, GOOD FOR YOU.
-- (You just have to please the man in the Mirror) Mike from Michigan -
149 posts in 1862 days
#4 posted 11-23-2010 02:53 AM
That’s a lot of work, but I bet it improved the cut the saw makes and was worth it.
114 posts in 2060 days
#5 posted 11-23-2010 05:38 AM
Thanks, I have been thinking of similar insert for my Hitachi saw that has what looks like the same insert, I will have to take another look at it in the morning.
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#6 posted 11-23-2010 06:16 AM
nice, looks good. works and makes your saw look professional :)
-- Derek, Iowa
15757 posts in 2185 days
#7 posted 11-23-2010 11:53 AM
Nice job this will make it safer no doubt!
-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"
85 posts in 1761 days
#8 posted 11-24-2010 01:05 PM
nice one!gonna try in my inexpensive black&decker wannabe tablesaw
4 posts in 1485 days
#9 posted 08-04-2011 12:31 AM
looks great! I need to make an insert for that exact saw. thin pieces tend to try and stick in the large space in the poor factory insert. and it is not level with the back of the saw so sometimes, and very dangerously so, the pieces like to jam before getting to outfeed. What did you screw the piece of wood into? (i am not at home to get under mine but will examine to extrapolate how you did it). much needed example of what I need to do!! thanks!
#10 posted 08-04-2011 12:33 AM
any ideas on how to make the miter slot less sloppy for cross cuts?? yes yes, a better table saw :p but in the time being….as I am a musician by trade and carpenter by hobby.
#11 posted 08-04-2011 12:55 AM
Hi treevore, I used the same screws that came with the red plate, with the holes counterbored on the wood insert.If you build an insert for your ts please go with thicker plywood or thick hardwood (extra thickness would go below the blade hole), mine broke from one end as the blade wobbles a little when starting up and that was enough to damage the insert, but since I’m using my SuperSled for almost any cut now, I don’t mind doing the insert again hehee.
“any ideas on how to make the miter slot less sloppy for cross cuts?”
In this ts no way, but you can build a SuperSled too ;), look at my other projects.
30 posts in 1164 days
#12 posted 06-21-2012 04:46 PM
Nice insert. I tried to make one for my craftsman saw but there is nothing to connect it to. I thought it wasn’t possible but seeing your work proves me wrong. I’ll give it another try.@treevore On my craftsmans saw I have an aluminum table with miter slots that have a ridge in the middle and several little lips to keep the miter gauge from falling out. I took a router with a spiral endmill bit to it and made it a simple open slot. Now I can use a crosscut sled similar to the one Freddy build. Works really good.
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#13 posted 02-09-2013 11:45 PM
this insert looks similar to the black and decker firestorm…wanna make another?
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#14 posted 07-04-2013 08:49 PM
on my TS, ryobi RTS31, it came with a miter sled, which was worthless…i tried everything i could think of to make if more functional…but in the end you just need a miter slot….so i removed it, ground down the protrusions and filled the space with layers of hard wood, bb plywood and topped it off with hardboard…then i dado out the slot for the miter track…it was a bit scary to modify parts of my saw that i can’t go back and replace if my idea didn’t work out but in the end it came out really well… i’ve been working on how to make a zero-clearance insert plate but i have the same problem the only way to get one to work is to remove all the 1/8 metal lip that holds the factory plate and attach some sort of lip below where the original ones were so i make one out of thicker material like you suggested
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