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Thorsen Greene and Greene Hall Table

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Project by Karson posted 12-18-2007 05:59 PM 3484 views 2 times favorited 44 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This is the project posting of the tables that I started at the request of my wife because she want another place to put Christmas Decorations. Today is Day 7 of the construction.

The blogs that show the construction are here.

A new first, putting in the Greene and Greene Spline for the table top and breadboard.

I commented when I started this that I was not much in favor or Sap wood. I mean sap wood is Sappy. It’s a waste of good tree. But if I guess if the tree didn’t have sap wood then there would be no tree either.

So when I started this table I decided that I would try to accent the sap wood and use it in part of the construction techniques.

The apron board is one continuous piece of wood the actual width of the board. I had about 4” that was cut off. It had sapwood on one edge the full length. The board starts on the end apron around the front, next end and finishing at the back.

I used “Z” clips to attach the top to the aprons and I cut the slot in the apron with a slot cutter router bit. The “Figure 8” clips didn’t seem to me to be the way to attach a solid board to some immovable aprons.

As I said that I made an effort to use sapwood as a visible part of the construction. The shelf board is a prime example. The grain and layout of the board was just asking for it self to be used. The board is the actual width of my board. I just cut off each end to center the darker cherry grain.

When I brought it in to show my wife in one of the earlier visits to the house. She said that she liked the section of the apron that I called the back the best. Here for your view it is the third picture. We will have to see how she places it in use.

Construction size:
The table is 37” long, 12” wide, and 32” tall. The apron boards are 1 1/4” thick which are way too thick, I just didn’t want to plane it off to something thinner and I didn’t feel that resawing a 1/4” piece off was any good either. The bread boards are 3” wide and 1 1/8” thick. The top is 7/8” thick

Updated 9/10/2010

The last two pictures are this table are taken today. Almost 5 years after the table was made. It has really aged well. My wife once told me that she didn’t like Cherry because it was so dark. I always show her and light the pink color is at time of making. It then ages before her eyes – spread over 5 years. By that time she still loves it.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †





44 comments so far

View TreeBones's profile

TreeBones

1824 posts in 2770 days


#1 posted 12-18-2007 06:41 PM

Very nice. This is something I would keep in my home.

-- Ron, Twain Harte, Ca. Portable on site Sawmill Service http://westcoastlands.net/Sawmill.html http://westcoastlands.net/SawBucks2/phpBB3 http://www.portablesawmill.info

View RonH's profile

RonH

33 posts in 2671 days


#2 posted 12-18-2007 06:44 PM

I love Greene and Greene, that is beautiful.

View Russel's profile

Russel

2199 posts in 2685 days


#3 posted 12-18-2007 06:55 PM

Nice table, and I’m familiar with your reason for building it, ”at the request of my wife because she want another place to put Christmas Decorations.

I’m curious, though, I thought the figure 8’s were specifically for attaching a solid wood top because in theory they can move. Have I been misled?

-- Working at Woodworking http://www.VillageLaneFurniture.com

View Betsy's profile

Betsy

2914 posts in 2642 days


#4 posted 12-18-2007 06:57 PM

Another lovely piece Karson. Those decorations should look nice on it. As will anything else!

-- Like a bad penny, I keep coming back!

View rikkor's profile

rikkor

11295 posts in 2621 days


#5 posted 12-18-2007 07:12 PM

You do good work Karson.

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15792 posts in 2965 days


#6 posted 12-18-2007 07:13 PM

Outstanding, Karson!

After looking at the blog, I’m still not sure I understand how to make those cutouts, though

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Ethan Sincox's profile

Ethan Sincox

765 posts in 2920 days


#7 posted 12-18-2007 07:18 PM

Karson,

I was excited to read your blogs about actually using the sap wood in a “fine furniture” piece. I don’t see a problem with using sapwood in a piece of furniture, but it should be done with thought and consideration to how it will affect the overall look of the piece. A bit of sapwood showing up in the middle of a table top glue-up doesn’t look quite right, but it certainly can have its place in professional-looking work.

Bravo to you for using the sap wood to your design advantage! I love the symmetry of the bottom shelf. I think you really pulled it off well and accomplished what you set out to do.

I agree, though, the figure 8’s were designed to be used for attaching tops to aprons. I think the key is in making the forstner bit holes overlap the edge of the apron enough to allow it that wiggle room it needs for expansion and contraction…

For a more traditional look, however, you could always use hand-made “L” clips set into a groove in each apron, similar to the “Z” clips in concept, I believe. That would be another great place to use sap wood, too…

-- Ethan, http://thekiltedwoodworker.com

View miles125's profile

miles125

2179 posts in 2752 days


#8 posted 12-18-2007 07:34 PM

Beautiful table Karson.

-- "The way to make a small fortune in woodworking- start with a large one"

View Thos. Angle's profile

Thos. Angle

4438 posts in 2709 days


#9 posted 12-18-2007 07:38 PM

And thar she be in all her glory!! Really looks great, Karson. I too like the sap wood. good for you.

-- Thos. Angle, Jordan Valley, Oregon

View mot's profile

mot

4911 posts in 2783 days


#10 posted 12-18-2007 07:52 PM

Karson, that’s a great table. The blog was excellent as well!

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

View Grumpy's profile

Grumpy

19693 posts in 2597 days


#11 posted 12-18-2007 08:43 PM

Beautiful job Karson. That sapwood sounds like a bit of a challenge but you overcame the obstacles to produce a very fine product. well done.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

View Napaman's profile

Napaman

5365 posts in 2823 days


#12 posted 12-18-2007 09:11 PM

i love it!!!

-- Matt--Proud LJ since 2007

View mrtrim's profile

mrtrim

1696 posts in 2627 days


#13 posted 12-18-2007 09:55 PM

well thought out and executed . nice work karson

View Karson's profile

Karson

34912 posts in 3147 days


#14 posted 12-19-2007 12:03 AM

Russel The figure eight don’t have any movement except sideways. So to use them on solid wood tops you would have to mount them at a 45 deg angle to the apron so that the top could expand and contract. As Ethan said you need to cut the forsner bit and allow the figure 8 to have the required wiggle room.

Since I have both kinds, I went with the “Z clip”.

Another construction note. The table top is glued into the breadboard in just the center tenon, the rest of the top has no glue into the breadboard pieces.

The splines are glued in the section that is inserted into the Top, there is no glue on the breadboard section of the spline. So the top is allowed to move and the spline can slide in the breadboard section.

I thank you all for your kind comments.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

View Karson's profile

Karson

34912 posts in 3147 days


#15 posted 12-19-2007 12:12 AM

CharlieM If you look at the book article here.

You can see in the article the picture of the spline. Now they are showing pounded ends where I made mine square. The go into the top 1/2” and 1/8” is outside. So You use 5/8 width wood on the top section.

The breadboard sticks outside of the top by 1/8” on each side. so the spline is 3/4” wide in the section that is in the breadboard. You glue the section that is in the top. Everything else floats.

The picture shows the inside edge on the breadboard section cut about 1/8” in. I left mine totally flat and cut an extra 1/8” deep in the breadboard so that when the top shrinks it will not bottom out on the bottom of the breadboard dado.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

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