| Project by molarman | posted 298 days ago | 981 views | 7 times favorited | 7 comments |  |
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A while back I saw a post on a ww forum (don’t remember which one) where a stop was made for the Keller dovetail jig. The recommended procedure for the Keller is to cut the tail boards first and then scribe a line on the pin boards corresponding to the position of one of the tails. The pin board is then placed on to the jig and once properly lined up, is offset from the position of the original tail board. It would have been nice if this offset did not exist, thus allowing the user to place the boards in the same position on each side of the jig. In any event, the post I saw a while back not only acted as a stop for both tail and pin boards but also had the offset built into it.
I decided that this would be quite handy to have so I created my own.
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7 comments so far
Todd A. Clippinger
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2536 posts in 584 days
posted 298 days ago
That is a pretty nice looking jig. It appears to be very accurate from the looks of your demo piece.
-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com
cajunpen
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5348 posts in 550 days
posted 298 days ago
Thanks – I have the Keller Dovetail jig and have been thinking about how to go about making just such a jig – Thanks for posting it.
-- Bill - "Suit yourself and let the rest be pleased." http://www.cajunpen.com/
Blake
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2016 posts in 359 days
posted 298 days ago
Hey, thats awsome. What an easy way to make machined dovetails. Beautifully made too.
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mot
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4837 posts in 521 days
posted 298 days ago
That’s a good way of handling the offset needed for that jig. Good one.
-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)
mgradwohl
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110 posts in 298 days
posted 294 days ago
Molarman, the offset is fixed for the thickness of the piece your are milling, right? So if you wanted to use a different thickness, you’d need to change the jig?
molarman
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27 posts in 302 days
posted 294 days ago
“Molarman, the offset is fixed for the thickness of the piece your are milling, right? So if you wanted to use a different thickness, you’d need to change the jig?”
Nope, the instructions for the Keller jig state to cut (I think) the pin board first, and then to take that board to the tail board and scribe the outline of one or two pins. The tail board is then placed on the other side of the jig and the newly scribed lines are lined up with the jig. The tail board is then cut. When the tail board has been properly placed back on the jig, there will be a consistent, repeatable offset from the location of the pin board.
This is done irrespective of board thickness.
All my jig does is compensate for this offset and properly align the tail board without the need for scribing any lines, thus making the process faster and removing some of the “hassle factor”.
Make sense?
-- Woodworking is not a destination....it's a joinery !!! http://smilesrus.com/pages/woodgallery.html
Dusty56
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1166 posts in 172 days
posted 62 days ago
this just came around on the roll the dice game ….Beautiful set up you have made here. I take it that you use your Keller jig on a router table instead of clamping the stock in a vise and attaching the jig to the stock.
I should blow the dust off of mine and put it to work in this manner : )
Thanks for the great idea and have a wonderful weekend !
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