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Man cave side table or end table or accent table. Some sort of table...

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Project by PlanBWoodworks posted 09-20-2018 12:18 AM 463 views 1 time favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Several months ago, I built a Morris chair and ottoman for my man cave. When I put it in the room, there was a large gap between the 2 chairs, and I would have to move the table closer to whichever chair I was sitting in. I know. First world problems, right? Anyway. I decided to remedy my struggle by building a new table.

I have no idea what to actually call this table. Can it be an end table if it’s in the middle? It can’t be a sofa table with no sofa, right? Anyway, constructed from my go to SYP, the legs are 3 1/2” square. The face frame, rails, stiles, top and drawer fronts are all 7/8”. Mortise and tenons were used to attach the legs to the frame. I ran dadoes in the sides and back to accept slats that are all 1/2”. I selected pieces cut from 2×10s that had no knots or imperfections for all viewable surfaces. I didn’t worry about the back. To add a new level of interest to this project, I cut curves in the stretchers/aprons(?). I drew the curves by bending an aluminum ruler and cut them out on the bandsaw. I rounded the corners on the top and the legs with an 1/8” round over bit in the router.

One change I made in my normal designing style was to not worry about uniformity for the slats or pieces that are joined for the top. They are of varying widths and I think it adds character to the piece. Instead of drawer slides, I built a frame from 3/4” ply for the drawers to ride on. There are also runners that keep the drawers in place laterally.

I stained it all with Minwax Red Oak and topped with 3 coats of Arm-R-Seal.

I did a better job of taking pics on this build so I am going to just add them in below. Thanks for looking!






-- Why can’t I ever find my pencil???





3 comments so far

View swirt's profile

swirt

3155 posts in 3116 days


#1 posted 09-20-2018 01:28 AM

That came out pretty nice. Well done.

I was on the fence about using SYP for a piece of furniture I am planning on building soon, but after seeing the results and color you got, I am ready to go for it.

-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8412 posts in 2721 days


#2 posted 09-20-2018 02:20 AM

Turned out great, good job!

View PlanBWoodworks's profile

PlanBWoodworks

150 posts in 626 days


#3 posted 09-20-2018 02:39 AM

Thanks for the compliments. Swirt, as a hobbyist that doesn’t make a living from woodworking, I simply don’t have a clientele that wants to pay for premium woods. It’s the age old thought that we can build custom furniture cheaper than it can be manufactured on a mass scale. To sell pieces that I make, I have to use SYP.

The best advice I can give in building with pine is to buy 2×8s or larger as they generally are of a much better quality than 2×4s or 2×6s. Around here anything under a 2×8 is generally “white wood” and not pine. By cutting components from wider boards, you can be much more selective with grain direction and color.

Multiple coats of stain and a nice film finish generally produce solid results. I built a king bed for my wife and I using pine that is now 2 years old and has held up beautifully.

The positive about using pine is that if you screw up a cut, you don’t have to freak out as though you just destroyed a piece of purpleheart or mahogany.

Thanks again!

-- Why can’t I ever find my pencil???

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