Project Information
Started a new project about 3 weeks ago which was to make 2-3 wood mallets using hardwoods. I started by going to local wood supplier and picked 3 hardwood boards (hard maple, american cherry, american walnut) - each of them 8/4 rough boards, about 6" wide and 8 ft long.
Templates: I purchased a 4×8 sheet of 1/4" hardboard and cut into smaller strips (about 6"x2'). I like to have a stack of these by my miter saw as their excellent for preventing chip-out on those important cuts. I started with the handles, made a few different test handle templates before eventually coming up with what I liked the best. I wanted to come up with 2 different sizes. I ended up with a 10" version and a 11" version. Using a template router bit, I made a couple master templates for each handle. Nice to have a working template and then a few masters for when you need to make more. Sometimes the bushing on the router bit can distort the template over time (slight indentations) so its a good idea to take time to make a few masters. Label each of them. The head of the mallet is 5.25" wide, 3.25" tall, and 3" thick. I made the templates about 1/64" larger to allow for sanding. Used a 4 degree angle on the mallet head. I started with 3 degrees but I didn't think it was enough and 4 degrees looked just right to me.
Glue-ups: Each mallet was about 6-8 individual glue-ups, depending on the design. The handle is one glue-up, then another to add the dowel detail. I used 3/8" tapered dowels. I used an awl to mark the dowels on the templates and then onto the handles so their all in the exact same spot. The head of the mallet is about 3 glue-ups. I made the head using 12" stock. Once planed to size, I cut in half and book matched. Then cut the middle section which is 2 pieces. I try to use the maple for this as its the core of the mallet and maple is the hardest of the 3 hardwoods. I cut the 2 pieces at a 4 degree angle so it creates a wedge shape. One of the mallets I drilled two 1" holes in each piece (4 total holes) using forstner bit and added lead BB's to add weight. The mallet with all of the fine detail took longer because I had to make a supply block (1/4" thick pieces, roughly 12" long, total of about 48. I did in 3 different glue-ups (too much to try do all at once). This block is what I used to cut lengths off for the detail pieces. Once the head was ready, I would attach to template using a strong double stick tape. I use Fastcap Speedtape. It's pricey but the best tape I've found for template work. Then I would take to miter saw and take off any extra material that I could (less to do at router). I find errors such as chipout happen moreoften at the router so I try to take off as much material as I can before routing. Plus its easier on the router bits. At this point there quite a bit of time invested into the mallet heads so critical that the routing be error free. I would trim to about 1/8" to 1/16" of the template. When routing, I would take off about 1/2" at a time, maybe even a little less. Then remove template and take off more. Then raise bit and continue. I eventually change my 1/2" template bit for my 3/4" and take off more material. Lastly, I used a 1" flush trim router bit, flips piece over and finished up. Go slow, the less material you take off the less chance of a chip-out. The key to nice routing is using good sharp bits. You don't want to use a cheap bit when plowing thru hard maple as it will likely lead to burning and chip out. I use CMT and Bosch router bits. Next I made up 1" wide wedges which get driven into the end of the head. Lots of glue. Used a small flush trim hand saw to cut off excess, then 1/2" chisel to remove remaining material. Takes some time to fit the handle to the mallet head. Using a chisel and taking my time, finally got the fit right. To do the final fitting and final glue up can take upwards of an hour. Important to not be in any rush during this part of the project. The goal is to get the fit just right with a nice tight fit on the shoulder of the handle and for the wedges to be evenly driven into the mallet head. On two of the mallets I used 2 wedges and on one I ended up using 4 wedges.
Finishing: I used Titebond 3 glue throughout. Hand sanded using 100, 150, 180, 220, and lastly 320 grit. Applied 3 goats of shellac, lightly sanding w 320 between coats. Used 1 lb cut on all coats. Applied coat of polishing wax at the end. Let dry for 15 min and wiped off. I bought small letter stamps from a craft store, put together "GUST" which is my last name, lightly stamped on the end of the handle, then used a fine tip on wood burner to burn it in. Fun project, definitely not a quick project but a fun one.
Templates: I purchased a 4×8 sheet of 1/4" hardboard and cut into smaller strips (about 6"x2'). I like to have a stack of these by my miter saw as their excellent for preventing chip-out on those important cuts. I started with the handles, made a few different test handle templates before eventually coming up with what I liked the best. I wanted to come up with 2 different sizes. I ended up with a 10" version and a 11" version. Using a template router bit, I made a couple master templates for each handle. Nice to have a working template and then a few masters for when you need to make more. Sometimes the bushing on the router bit can distort the template over time (slight indentations) so its a good idea to take time to make a few masters. Label each of them. The head of the mallet is 5.25" wide, 3.25" tall, and 3" thick. I made the templates about 1/64" larger to allow for sanding. Used a 4 degree angle on the mallet head. I started with 3 degrees but I didn't think it was enough and 4 degrees looked just right to me.
Glue-ups: Each mallet was about 6-8 individual glue-ups, depending on the design. The handle is one glue-up, then another to add the dowel detail. I used 3/8" tapered dowels. I used an awl to mark the dowels on the templates and then onto the handles so their all in the exact same spot. The head of the mallet is about 3 glue-ups. I made the head using 12" stock. Once planed to size, I cut in half and book matched. Then cut the middle section which is 2 pieces. I try to use the maple for this as its the core of the mallet and maple is the hardest of the 3 hardwoods. I cut the 2 pieces at a 4 degree angle so it creates a wedge shape. One of the mallets I drilled two 1" holes in each piece (4 total holes) using forstner bit and added lead BB's to add weight. The mallet with all of the fine detail took longer because I had to make a supply block (1/4" thick pieces, roughly 12" long, total of about 48. I did in 3 different glue-ups (too much to try do all at once). This block is what I used to cut lengths off for the detail pieces. Once the head was ready, I would attach to template using a strong double stick tape. I use Fastcap Speedtape. It's pricey but the best tape I've found for template work. Then I would take to miter saw and take off any extra material that I could (less to do at router). I find errors such as chipout happen moreoften at the router so I try to take off as much material as I can before routing. Plus its easier on the router bits. At this point there quite a bit of time invested into the mallet heads so critical that the routing be error free. I would trim to about 1/8" to 1/16" of the template. When routing, I would take off about 1/2" at a time, maybe even a little less. Then remove template and take off more. Then raise bit and continue. I eventually change my 1/2" template bit for my 3/4" and take off more material. Lastly, I used a 1" flush trim router bit, flips piece over and finished up. Go slow, the less material you take off the less chance of a chip-out. The key to nice routing is using good sharp bits. You don't want to use a cheap bit when plowing thru hard maple as it will likely lead to burning and chip out. I use CMT and Bosch router bits. Next I made up 1" wide wedges which get driven into the end of the head. Lots of glue. Used a small flush trim hand saw to cut off excess, then 1/2" chisel to remove remaining material. Takes some time to fit the handle to the mallet head. Using a chisel and taking my time, finally got the fit right. To do the final fitting and final glue up can take upwards of an hour. Important to not be in any rush during this part of the project. The goal is to get the fit just right with a nice tight fit on the shoulder of the handle and for the wedges to be evenly driven into the mallet head. On two of the mallets I used 2 wedges and on one I ended up using 4 wedges.
Finishing: I used Titebond 3 glue throughout. Hand sanded using 100, 150, 180, 220, and lastly 320 grit. Applied 3 goats of shellac, lightly sanding w 320 between coats. Used 1 lb cut on all coats. Applied coat of polishing wax at the end. Let dry for 15 min and wiped off. I bought small letter stamps from a craft store, put together "GUST" which is my last name, lightly stamped on the end of the handle, then used a fine tip on wood burner to burn it in. Fun project, definitely not a quick project but a fun one.