|Project by ic3ss||posted 10-21-2010 09:59 PM||5912 views||5 times favorited||16 comments|
I got this old Stanley No. 8 plane off of Ebay a few weeks ago. It was in pretty bad shape, the handle spur was shaved off, and the handle didn’t fit my hand at all. There was some black gunk that someone sprayed all over the top of the plane, possibly an attempt at refinishing, and the expected rust.
I made up an electrolosys solution and hooked up a battery charger that I found at a garage sale for .50c and it took two days to loosen the japanning from the iron, with no sweat spent wire brushing or fighting to get the japanning off in those corners. It just fell off. After the bath, I taped off all machined surfaces and sprayed three coats of appliance epoxy black to seal it up. The iron, cap iron, and cap lever were cleaned as well enough to read the markings on them clearly, although it is pitted. Lastly, I dug around in the scrap bin of a local granite counter top contractor and found a couple of suitable pieces I could use. One is about 20”x12” that wil lbe used to put sandpaper down on for a “scary sharp” system, the other is 6”x30” and was used to flatten the sole of the plane. I spray glued two 40 grit sanding belts, cut and laying down flat, and ran the plane sole across it until ALL of the old patina was gone, and then sealed it with paste wax to help keep the rust at bay. I didn’t bother with the sides.
Next I found two small blocks of curly maple with some really nice figuring in the grain. I just needed a way to cut the outline of a handle. I picked up a very new scroll saw from a Craigslist ad for $50 and went to work. I layed the tote from a Miller’s Falls No. 604 Jackplane on the maple to use as an outline. The 604 tote has a really nice profile that fits my hand pretty well, albeit it is too skinny to fill up my palm. The maple was 1.5” thick so I only had to carve it down to size. The new scroll saw was slow going, but I was astonished at how smooth the cuts were, like it was sanded finish smooth. I really like this saw. Then I put the rough cutout in the vise and beveled the edges with my wood rasp, (.50c at a garage sale). From there, it was rasp work shaping it into a comfortable fit to my hand, and the foot where it mates to the iron. I spent about an hour sanding from 100 to 120, to 240 grit. Once the surface was finish smooth, the grain figuring really started to show. Now I was getting excited. The only thing I had to finish it was tung oil, so that’s what I used, and topping that with paste wax.
Sorry I didn’t think far enough ahead to take pictures of the process, but here are a few of the finished item. It fits my hand really well, and is nice to look at.
I completed the front knob a last week, carving it on my new drill press. I finished it with five coats of wipe on poly, and it looked so good that I sanded the tung oil and wax off of the tote and refinished it with wipe on poly as well. The finished product looks really cool, I can just sit and stare at the 3D effect the grain has in changing light. As an added bonus, the knob had some spalting in it that looks pretty good too.
-- "I am endeavoring, ma'am, to construct a mnemonic memory circuit using stone knives and bear skins."