| Project by WoodSimplyMade | posted 974 days ago | 2272 views | 10 times favorited | 4 comments |  |
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This is for all those of you, like me sat around scratching thier heads trying to figure out why miter cuts just wouldnt line up. You set the blade to 45 degrees, you make the cut, you align the box, glue and another wasted effort. At least that was my experience.
I read several posts on all the tips and techniques to get the perfect miter cut and it just wasnt working for me. I have a dedicated sled for my table saw to make cross cuts but didnt want to make an entire sled just for miters, so with a couple of tips and some scraps I’ll show you how I finally got the perfect miter.
To start of I did need a helping hand, but a sled was to involved just for miter cuts, so I cut a piece of 1×2 to length, glued and screwed on a slot guide (this is to ensure the 1×2 cannot move from left to right) and clamped it to my miter guage.
This jig also ensures that the cut off piece is collected and pushed all the way through to ensure it doesnt catch on the blade later and smack you in the face. And I know you all know that happens all to often.
BIGGEST TIP: My biggest tip is to ensure you push your working piece all the way through the blade and remove your working piece before pulling back your jig. This was my biggest flaw as pulling the work piece back can alter the cut made previously.
Hopefully these few tricks might help you get better miters. Let me know if it helps.
-- Mike, Florida, http://www.woodsimplymade.com
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4 comments so far
Pawky
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278 posts in 1001 days
#1 posted 974 days ago
I’m sure I’m missing something, but how does this ensure your mitered cut comes out perfect? Thanks for sharing :)
FloridaArt
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#2 posted 974 days ago
I think it is a good idea to clamp your backer board to your miter gauge. Only confusion for me is the small sled riding in that slot on the left. Does that really help the accuracy of the cut? I would be nervous that it would bind in the slot, pull against the clamp, and ruin the cut. I need to think about it some more. I’m glad your miter cuts are better.
-- Art | Bradenton, Florida
WoodSimplyMade
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#3 posted 974 days ago
Pawky: So far the sled has pushed my work piece through straight and evenly without any wobbling. It basically acts like a sled would. My biggest achievement seems to be by changing my technique and pushing the work piece clean through the blade and then removing the work piece before pulling back on my jig. So far as long as my blade is set to 45 my miter match 90 degrees perfectly.
FloridaArt: I know what you are thinking about it binding, but it doesn’t, because I clamp my jig to the miter gauge it runs parrell consistantly. For me this way everytime I set the jig it will line up in the exact same spot, and it does help to keep it running straight and prevents any sway from left to right.
Hope this helps clarify. Let me know if you have any other questions.
-- Mike, Florida, http://www.woodsimplymade.com
Knothead62
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1712 posts in 1158 days
#4 posted 974 days ago
“This jig also ensures that the cut off piece is collected and pushed all the way through to ensure it doesnt catch on the blade later and smack you in the face. And I know you all know that happens all to often.”
If that happens, I’ll just sue the TS manufacturer. ;)
Great idea! I’m going to give it a try on my TS. Thanks!
-- Regret- the feeling you get just after you do something really stupid.
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