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cabinet help revisited a third time

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Project by joebazooka posted 1373 days ago 1582 views 0 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch

okay you can see here the trouble I am having. I can not get a tight fit. I have fiddled with the spacers an even removed the bearing to allow a deeper penetration but I can not seem to fit it right. I did manage to tighten up the tenon but as you can see I still am unable to close the gap. I do not know the name of the router bits I am using they were a gift last xmas an a no name brand from what I can tell. Guess next time I will spring for the name brand product. But seriously any help yo have is welcomed.

-- Robert-maine





12 comments so far

View patron's profile (online now)

patron

12947 posts in 1926 days


#1 posted 1373 days ago

it looks to me that you have two different profiles (cutters)
i recently got the same roundover cutters for a project
the round over was not a 1/4 circle
but eliptical shape
(they don’t tell you that in the details)
some cutters are 7/16” deep tenons
and some 1/2” deep tenons

is this a one cutter bit
(where you change the configuration for both) ?

the tops of your cope should have more shoulder
it looks like it is paper thin
rather than guessing
take the stile part you like
and set your cope to match it

why i only get 2 bit cutters not an interchangeble one
and all parts should be cut face down
adjust the height to match

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View GaryL's profile

GaryL

1074 posts in 1415 days


#2 posted 1373 days ago

It looks to me like a very poorly made bit set. From what I can tell from the photos, it doesn’t look like the roundover of the profile matches the cove in the coping cut. Also raise your bits a 1/16th or so to get a little better shoulder above the roundover. This will give you a little more material above the cove and not be coming to small point. But if the bits don’t match, it is a futile effort. Just curious, what part of the joint is hitting on the right door in the pics? This one seems close to fitting. Also, use scraps to test your bit setups before using your project material. I see some nice pine that may be wasted… :(

-- Gary; Marysville, MI...Involve your children in your projects as much as possible, the return is priceless.

View lightweightladylefty's profile

lightweightladylefty

2581 posts in 2297 days


#3 posted 1373 days ago

Robert,

Our opinion is that you need more shoulder—at least a minimum of 1/16”. If you remove the bearing, it is nearly impossible to keep a perfectly straight cut. Even when using a fence on your router, the end of the rail is so narrow that it is extremely difficult to keep the cut straight without a bearing. And (depending on what type of router bit you have) without a shoulder on the rail, there is nothing to hit the bearing to keep your cut uniform.

Also, if you make multiple passes, without more shoulder it will continue to cut away—each time more unevenly. Try using some scrap material and change the height of your router bit by 1/16”. We wish you success.

(If you’re using a 2-piece matched set, you should be able to put the two together to see if they fit. If you’re using a reversible combination, they should fit with the proper set-up.)

When you get the set-up with exactly the right fit, make yourself a sample piece of the rail and stile so you can use it for future set-ups.

L/W

-- Jesus is the ONLY reason for ANY season.

View Napoleon's profile

Napoleon

786 posts in 1394 days


#4 posted 1372 days ago

Try to take to pieces and join them toghether. To pieces were you easyili can use your routerbits. If it then not fits you know why.

-- Boatbuilder&blacksmith

View ken_c's profile

ken_c

260 posts in 1747 days


#5 posted 1372 days ago

Whiteside matched pairs with the panel raising bit is your friend…

View DaddyZ's profile

DaddyZ

2372 posts in 1625 days


#6 posted 1372 days ago

Always Run test Cuts before you run your Finished Pieces, & Run Tests in the Middle of running Pieces to ensure No Movement of the Fit.

-- Pat - Worker of Wood, Collector of Tools, Father of one

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8475 posts in 2233 days


#7 posted 1372 days ago

just looks like height and depth were not set right on the 2 cuts.

as suggested – take 2 scrap pieces, and adjust the cutters until you get a good positioning of the cuts. then run your frame parts through it.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View parkerdude's profile

parkerdude

165 posts in 2036 days


#8 posted 1372 days ago

just my 2¢ ….

I think the rails are cut too deep, they shouldn’t bottom out. I think that you shouldn’t have removed the guide bearing either.

later,

-- dust control

View lanwater's profile

lanwater

3070 posts in 1519 days


#9 posted 1372 days ago

I am on the camp of unmatched bits.

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

View Frankie Talarico Jr.'s profile

Frankie Talarico Jr.

353 posts in 1941 days


#10 posted 1372 days ago

Your shoulder should be at least 1/16”

I agree with most though that the cutters don’t match.
Maybe you’re not using stock that is thick enough. What are you working with in these pics?

I also second the point of, cut everything face down.
Tip #1:
When setting up your fence for the cutter head, start witha fresh piece. Turn on the router and carefully push the fence into the bit until it protrudes to your liking. I like to leave one side of the fence secured while the other is loose and shimmy it in a little at a time going back and forth with the right and left until i get it perfect.

Tip #2:
Always make a sample joint before tackling the actual work piece. You’ll be happy later knowing you don’t have to mill it all over again! This sample piece should be a part of your milling proccess to ensure it’s actually the same dimensions as the work piece itself.

Hope that helps a little

-- Live by what you believe, not what they want you to believe.

View cabmaker's profile

cabmaker

1279 posts in 1394 days


#11 posted 1372 days ago

Some geometries will never mate up untill you get the height just right. Could possibly be the problem. Appears that your tenon is tight to the groove bottom. Leave a tad more quirk on the back side of your sticking and see if that doesn t rectify the problem. Good luck, JB

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

2338 posts in 2327 days


#12 posted 1365 days ago

I’m with Patron – it looks like the radius on the Cope and Style are not the same.
Trace the bits on a piece of paper and cut them out and see if they really fit or the set is mismatched.

-- "If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves." Edison

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