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DC Modification #3 - The Final Straw

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Project by Rayne posted 05-25-2018 12:12 AM 1429 views 13 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This is my 3rd and final Modification to my DC. My bin collapsed twice within a short time and clogged the filter to no end. I had enough, so I started researching ways to do a MOD that will have every bell and whistle I could possibly add and be somewhat future proof to a degree. This is what I came up with and I am glad this is over. Here is a list of Features of this MOD.

1) It is Mobile. 4 – double locking casters so it’s not moving, but when I need it to move (like when I epoxy my floors), I can make that happen easily.
2) DIY Dust Bin Sensor. I started another thread on the research and part hunting a while back. After installing, it seems to work well, but won’t know 100% until the bin becomes semi full. Right now, I can place my hand underneath the lid / sensor and the light does flash.
3) Inline Toggle clamps to lift the lid so I can pull the bin out and dump it easily. Works perfectly.
4) 5 Gallon bucket MOD as seen from Stumpy Nubs. I did in my previous MOD and just kept it for this one.
5) Air Relief valve if the pressure gets too great in the bin. This will be an audible indicator that either the filter is clogging or I was stupid enough to turn it on without opening a blast gate… This was originally designed to help prevent the bin from collapsing, but my MOD made my system more efficient, thus more air flow, thus more pressure…bin collapsed almost immediately after turning it on. Suction was very strong with 2 blast gates open; that’s new to me.
6) Filter MOD. Get tired of cleaning the filter? I added the flappers inside of this filter. Uses a 1/2” wrench to turn the gears that turns the flapper. Works amazingly well.
7) Added a modified concrete form tube to fit inside the brute trash can. This prevents the bin from collapsing; works perfectly.

Let me know what you think of this or critiques. Maybe I’m missing something that could potentially fail.

Air relief valve bracket

Air relief valve test fit

Mobile base

Routing Setup to cut the 6” hole for the 6” flange

Hole cut in lid. Very nice and clean. Routing was quite messy.

Test fit of the lid, flange, and SDD.

Truck Nano Filter internal cage removed

Truck filter cage remnants. Did not think it would be that hard to remove…I was so wrong.

Couldn’t find a solid piece of steel wide enough to handle the gear for the flapper, so I took 2, screwed them into a scrap ply and cut the hole needed for the shaft to go in.

Bracket, gear, and flapper test fit. Not bad.

Flange test

Flange test with external shaft to turn the gear.

Filter MOD complete.

Flapper brackets prepared for final shaping

Completed flapper. I moved the flapper to the other side prior to install to balance it out. I originally planned on installing flappers on both side, but realized I wouldn’t be restrained to turning the gears plus it would add far more friction than necessary. This worked out for the best.

Routing setup for the filter support brackets.

Completed filter support bracket

Filter support bracket installed

Weight test on the filter supports. No sagging observed.

Bracket adapter to go between the SDD and 6” flange. Took some time to figure out how it would screw in together, but it works perfectly with an air-tight seal

Previous MOD for reference.

Thanks for reading this far. I hope this things lasts a long time.





13 comments so far

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

5545 posts in 2527 days


#1 posted 05-25-2018 01:41 AM

Wow, what a build! I am curious about what you used for a relief valve. Can you post a link to where you got it? My friend had similar issue and we resolved it by installing a threaded PCV (positive crankcase valve) into the top of his container. On your average automobile this is a metered vacuum leak to bleed off pressure from the crankcase. Same idea just much smaller version.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

1026 posts in 1658 days


#2 posted 05-25-2018 02:11 AM



Wow, what a build! I am curious about what you used for a relief valve. Can you post a link to where you got it? My friend had similar issue and we resolved it by installing a threaded PCV (positive crankcase valve) into the top of his container. On your average automobile this is a metered vacuum leak to bleed off pressure from the crankcase. Same idea just much smaller version.

- woodbutcherbynight

Sure. It’s called a Suction Relief Valve. It’s used in a whole house vacuum system for the same reason to prevent the pipes from collapsing if there was a clog or blockage. I ordered this one and it came in white even though it shows black. It’s adjustable to suit your needs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078HCHZ8G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

View playingwithmywood's profile

playingwithmywood

425 posts in 1715 days


#3 posted 05-25-2018 03:50 AM

Ok I am sorry I really do not understand the relief valve ….... I guess if it was mounted in the intake line it would make more sense to me

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

1026 posts in 1658 days


#4 posted 05-25-2018 11:25 AM



Ok I am sorry I really do not understand the relief valve ….... I guess if it was mounted in the intake line it would make more sense to me

- playingwithmywood

The bin is kind of like part of the intake since the output is the arm going into the filter, right? I couldn’t find a good place or method to install the valve in the intake arm since it’s all snaplock pipes, so the lid was the easiest to install. It’s where the pressure is that collapses the bin so if it’s strong enough, it’ll pull the valve down and let air in or at least that’s the thought anyways. I’m no expert. I just installed based on an observation.

View scribble's profile

scribble

196 posts in 2319 days


#5 posted 05-25-2018 01:48 PM

IM very curious about your gearing setup for the air filter flapper and what Truck filter you used?

-- If you can't read it Scribble wrote it!! ā€œExperience is merely the name men gave to their mistakes.ā€

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

1026 posts in 1658 days


#6 posted 05-25-2018 02:20 PM



IM very curious about your gearing setup for the air filter flapper and what Truck filter you used?

- scribble

Bought the gear from eBay because apparently Miter Gears are insanely expensive on their own.
Young Regulatory Right Angle Miter Gears

The Truck Filter is a DONALDSON TORIT ULTRA-WEB NANO-FIBER FILTER P190818-016-436. You may want to research a little more to find a similar filter without the internal cage if possible. That wasn’t fun to remove.

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

3450 posts in 2107 days


#7 posted 05-25-2018 02:27 PM

Looks nice with lots of time and money in it. The real question is what are the performance characteristics. What motor and impeller did you use.

View helluvawreck's profile

helluvawreck

32061 posts in 2985 days


#8 posted 05-25-2018 03:00 PM

You have done a fine job on this dust system. Congratulations.

-- helluvawreck aka Charles, http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

1026 posts in 1658 days


#9 posted 05-25-2018 03:34 PM



Looks nice with lots of time and money in it. The real question is what are the performance characteristics. What motor and impeller did you use.

- Redoak49

Money wasn’t bad…I don’t think. I do need to tally up what I bought for the MOD. It was scattered over a period of 2 months. The DC I’m using is a Shop Fox W1685 (I’m 80% sure of the model anyways). It’s a 1.5 HP that requires 16A. 1280 CFM capacity (obviously not at the tool), 12” radial fin impeller.

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

1026 posts in 1658 days


#10 posted 05-25-2018 03:42 PM



You have done a fine job on this dust system. Congratulations.

- helluvawreck

Thanks Charles!

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

3450 posts in 2107 days


#11 posted 05-25-2018 04:15 PM

Wood Magazine tested the Shop Fox W1685. They got a max of 712 cfm at 1.2” static pressure. This was a stock unit with 6” duct. Adding the cyclone will reduce those numbers slightly.

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

5545 posts in 2527 days


#12 posted 05-26-2018 03:56 AM



Ok I am sorry I really do not understand the relief valve ….... I guess if it was mounted in the intake line it would make more sense to me

- playingwithmywood

I am sure we have someone that can explain the physics of it but I am not that person. LOL. In layman’s terms as the vacuum increases inside the container (steel barrel in this case) due to all the ports closed, the air relief valve will be pulled down and cause a vacuum leak hopefully enough to keep the barrel from collapsing.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View jimintx's profile

jimintx

823 posts in 1702 days


#13 posted 05-26-2018 04:24 AM

This is remarkable.

-- Jim, Houston, TX

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