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Persimmon vessel & Live Oak Burl dish

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Project by Bearpie posted 09-19-2010 03:51 AM 1979 views 0 times favorited 11 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Persimmon Vessel 9 1/2” H x 6” D

Live Oak Burl Candy dish 2 1/4” H x 7” D

The Persimmon wood is a dream to turn! It turns easily, sands well, smells like fresh raw potatoes when turning green, finishes beautifully. I received this wood from my Tree Service guy and he did not know what kind of wood this was, I found out later from an arborist who stopped by my neighbor’s house to look at his huge Live Oak tree. If anyone has a chance to get some Persimmon wood I would highly recommend that you grab it!

I am in the process of finishing another persimmon vase that has already spalted and it is beautiful!

The Live Oak Burl was turned green and has wrinkled as it dried and I think it has unusual looking markings.

Comments and critiques welcomed.

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL

-- Erwin, Jacksonville, FL





11 comments so far

View hairy's profile

hairy

2024 posts in 2190 days


#1 posted 09-19-2010 04:23 AM

I like them both. Nice work!

-- the last of Barret's Privateers...

View jerryw's profile

jerryw

158 posts in 2573 days


#2 posted 09-19-2010 04:34 AM

persimmon makes great mallets. nice turnings.

-- jerryw-wva.

View imallchalkedup's profile

imallchalkedup

393 posts in 1639 days


#3 posted 09-19-2010 04:48 AM

Those are both beautiful, could you share which tools you are using for the inside, I was trying my first Hollow form tonight, but I don’t have any hollow form tools of yet.

-- RStadler

View Sheila Landry (scrollgirl)'s profile

Sheila Landry (scrollgirl)

7665 posts in 1577 days


#4 posted 09-19-2010 02:27 PM

These are really cool. They are both really beautiful. I have a ‘dumb question’ though . . . When you turn the wood while it is green, how do you dry it and how long (typically) would it take to do so? I would imagine that you would wait to put the finish in it until it was completely dry. What kind of finish would you then use?

It was a pleasure to see these. :)

Sheila

-- Designer/Artist/Teacher. Owner of Sheila Landry Designs (http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com) Scroll saw, wood working and painting patterns and surfaces. "Knowledge is Power"

View wizzardofwood's profile

wizzardofwood

224 posts in 1527 days


#5 posted 09-19-2010 03:48 PM

really nice

-- wizzardofwood..... "ITS MY JOB TO AMAZE YOU"

View Bearpie's profile

Bearpie

2587 posts in 1675 days


#6 posted 09-20-2010 05:30 AM

Imallchalkedup: I have several different hollowing tools, my favorites are the Munro Articulated hollower 2 and the Hunter carbide hollowing too #149357 from Woodcraft. The Munro tool works best on green wood and keeps getting clogged/jammed when using on dry woods. I find this tool works best on inside of bowls, vases, hollow forms and does not perform well on the outside of turnings.(maybe it is just me?) The Hunter carbide hollowing tool is my 2nd favorite tool, it also works best on inside of bowls and takes practice to use proficiently. If you were asking my opinion on which one to purchase, I would suggest the Hunter round carbide with the 5/8” shaft (not the 1/2” shaft which is IMO a weaker tool and shorter) for the reason that it is cheaper than the Munro tool. I also have the Trent Bosch hollowing set which performs well but I find it leaves the inside of bowls, vessels with a fairly rough finish but you can make it smoother if the opening is larger so you can see inside. With a small opening you are working by feel/guess work/instinct and have to frequently check your wall thickness with a deep reach calipers. Hope this helps and if not ask me more questions and I’ll be happy to try to answer.

Sheila: Thanks for the compliments! There are no “dumb questions” if you do not know the answer the only way to learn is to ask, ask and ask! Now I don’t know about others and they may have different ideas or theories. When I turn green wood, meaning freshly cut down trees, it is very wet and often the sap is spun out and I am splattered wet. The spinning also helps rid the wood of moisture and I generally turn my vessels between 1/8” to 1/4” depending on the shape and ease of reaching all surfaces inside. Between turning this thin and the spinning action most of the moisture is gone and then when I start sanding the piece the sandpaper generates heat and further dries it and often by the time I am done with sanding there is very little moisture left and I can immediately stain, dye or a combination or go right to putting Wipe on Poly on it. I like the glossy finish for my bowls and vases. I cut an old (white preferably) T-shirt in 4” squares removing all seams and cuffs, I will find the better side of the rag (generally the outside of the shirt) and fold the “bad” side towards the middle and fold again so I have about 1” strip then I fold it again so it is 2” long and grab the outside edge, dip it in some Poly and apply it to my turning while it is still on the lathe (turning slowly about 60 RPMs) and keep applying Poly till it will absorb no more then I wait 5-10 mins and apply some more. Poly dries quite rapidly so I may put another coat or 2 on the same day then after that I will sand lightly between coats and keep putting Poly on till I am satisfied with the finish then I’ll wait a few days till it fully dries and apply a coat or 2 of wax. For non-food turnings I use an automotive wax (Carnauba). For food items I use a food safe wax. For salad bowls, I use a Salad bowl finish which will build up and fill pores and small voids and provide a water proof finish but I always stress (STRESS) to the customer to wash and IMMEDIATELY dry the bowl and depending upon how often they use it, to apply a food safe wax often for long service and life of the bowls. Does this answer your question?

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL

-- Erwin, Jacksonville, FL

View Bogie's profile

Bogie

61 posts in 1491 days


#7 posted 09-20-2010 05:58 AM

Very Nice…. Thanks for the info :o)

-- Bogie... Roseburg, OR / Knowledge is Power!

View imallchalkedup's profile

imallchalkedup

393 posts in 1639 days


#8 posted 09-20-2010 03:25 PM

thanks bearpie, I did actually go an purchase a couple of hollowform tools though before your answer, and have started my first small hollow form. I purchased the easy wood tool square end scraper and also the mid size swan neck sorby Hollow master. I roughed turned them last night, I’m kindof sick right now so I can’t really give my full report on these tools, but they seemed to work ok. I’ll probably microwave dry this one the rest of the way and try finishing it. Wish me luck, I did get a few catches while roughing and cracked the kneck on the vase, but I super glued it and hope it will be ok.

-- RStadler

View Sheila Landry (scrollgirl)'s profile

Sheila Landry (scrollgirl)

7665 posts in 1577 days


#9 posted 09-20-2010 03:34 PM

Thanks so much for the explanation. It really helped me to understand the process. These are really beautiful and hopefully one day I will be able to get a lathe and give it a try.

:) Sheila

-- Designer/Artist/Teacher. Owner of Sheila Landry Designs (http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com) Scroll saw, wood working and painting patterns and surfaces. "Knowledge is Power"

View 4woodturning's profile

4woodturning

187 posts in 1639 days


#10 posted 10-30-2010 03:47 PM

Very cool ,Great Job

-- Jeff, Missouri ,"Just because your not bleeding, dont mean your turning safely!"..............http://www.4woodturning.com

View PaBull's profile

PaBull

928 posts in 2322 days


#11 posted 11-08-2010 05:27 PM

You do some real nice turning! Those are masterpieces.

Be good, Pabull.

-- rhykenologist and plant grower

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