LumberJocks

Walnut varmint stock for a Mauser 98

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Project by HalDougherty posted 1450 days ago 4958 views 0 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This stock was carved from a huge American Black Walnut blank. Too bad there wasn’t room in the blank to carve two stocks. “The blank was quartersawn and shows some fiddleback. I only sanded the stock to 120 grit and rubbed in one thin coat of tung oil. When the stock is finish sanded to at least 400 grit the fiddleback should show up a lot better. Too bad the maple slab I used to take the photos has voids and bark inclusions or I’d carve a stock from it. It’s destined to be a bench.

-- Hal, Tennessee http://www.first285.com





3 comments so far

View knife's profile

knife

47 posts in 2135 days


#1 posted 1450 days ago

How do you inlet the stock? Is it sll by hand or do you have some kind of jig?

-- Chad -- Buffalo, NY

View HalDougherty's profile

HalDougherty

1820 posts in 1863 days


#2 posted 1450 days ago

I carve both the inside and outside with a 2 1/2 hp router. It’s mounted in a specialized gunstock duplicator. I put a pattern stock on one side and a blank on the other a stylus the shape of the cutter follows the stock and the cutter removes everything that isn’t a gunstock. Or anything else you mount in it. I’ve carved 45 auto grips, duplicated fancy table legs and flattened slabs on my duplicating mill. Here’s what it looks like and how it works. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/19137

The tung oil finish I put on this stock is 50% pure Tung oil with 50% mineral spirits to thin it. It’s a penetrating oil finish that I love. For my stocks, I put this mixture on once a day for 5 days. The first couple of times I wet sand while I’m applying it. Walnut has pores that have to be filled to get a flat finish. This puts microscopic sawdust and oil in the pores and fills them quickly. The tung oil hardens in 24 hrs and is ready for another coat. I don’t use boiled linseed oil because it never fully hardens. 5 minutes after sanding, I wipe the stock with a paper towell to remove any excess. After the first few coats it only takes a tiny bit for each coat because the wood is getting saturated with hardened finish. The result is a surface that only has a very thin or no covering finish. After sanding to 220 grit for walnut, 400 grit for Cherry and 600 grit for maple, I put on the next few coats by rubbing it in with extra fine steel wool. (stainless is best if you can find it) Then I wait from 1 week to a month for all the oil finish to ‘out gas’ any solvents so if I put a hard varnish on it the finish won’t bubble up. Any finish can be put on top from just paste wax to automotive clear coat. My usual varnish is Lynspeed from Brownells or Tru Oil. I make my own Tru-Oil by mixing tung oil and varnish in a 50% mixture, then mix that with 50% mineral spirits. And rub the first few coats on with steel wool. Then put 4 or 5 coats on by rubbing it in with just my fingers. Nothing beats a hand rubbed final finish. Automotive clear coat is the hardest finish you can get, but if it’s scratched, it all has to be removed to fix a scratch. When I scratch my stocks, I just wet sand again and fix a small area. You can’t see the repair.

-- Hal, Tennessee http://www.first285.com

View WoodenFrog's profile

WoodenFrog

2737 posts in 1539 days


#3 posted 1449 days ago

Very cool work! I love that duplicating mill! Awesome!

-- Robert B. Sabina, Ohio..... http://www.etsy.com/shop/WoodenfrogWoodenProd

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